Menard’s tank car - fix? **EDIT - fix shown with pictures and video - thanks!

Glue the sticker on with some  E 6000 clear glue.

Quick temporary truck fix, a piece or two of Scotch 33 electrical tape.

Better fix, grind down the uncoupling tabs with a Dremel ginding metal bit.

Shame on Menards.

Charlie

Choo Choo Charlie posted:

Glue the sticker on with some  E 6000 clear glue.

Quick temporary truck fix, a piece or two of Scotch 33 electrical tape.

Better fix, grind down the uncoupling tabs with a Dremel ginding metal bit.

Shame on Menards.

Charlie

Excellent ideas, thanks. I’d like to keep the remote uncoupling functionality so maybe grinding off just the right amount would work.  I’ll give it a try - nothing to lose!

Actually, the fix is to take the truck off and bend the tab inside to the correct orientation.  Earlier cars had the opposite problem, they had the tab too tight and the cars would decouple.  Here's how I disassembled and fixed that issue.

Menard's Coupler Fix

The tab may be too far bent on yours allowing the plate to droop and drag on the center rail.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Actually, the fix is to take the truck off and bend the tab inside to the correct orientation.  Earlier cars had the opposite problem, they had the tab too tight and the cars would decouple.  Here's how I disassembled and fixed that issue.

Menard's Coupler Fix

The tab may be too far bent on yours allowing the plate to droop and drag on the center rail.

Oh wow, that’s even better! Excellent instructions that I think even I could follow. Will try it and report back. Thanks, John!

The easiest fix for the peeling stickers is to peel them all off and throw them in the trash.  There are already vertical lines printed on the tank that the stickers are placed over.

That's my fix, anyway. 

I wonder why they thought it necessary to add the stickers?

Mixed Freight posted:

The easiest fix for the peeling stickers is to peel them all off and throw them in the trash.  There are already vertical lines printed on the tank that the stickers are placed over.

That's my fix, anyway. 

Ha, I love it! I may end up going that route, Paul. If I can get this one working, I’m tempted to order more of them. 

Ok, GRJ helped me solve the problem. Here was my fix that did NOT require disassembling the trucks. 

When I removed the tank from the frame, I did not see a C clip to remove the trucks and did not know how to do it without breaking something. It looks like this:

So I decided to try it with the truck on the frame. The tab that needs to be bent is visible right in the center of this picture:

Insert a fairly robust flathead screwdriver as follows:

Then simply hold the screwdriver in place while pushing on the bottom section of the tab to bend it into a slightly more acute angle, like so:

When done, it will look like this with slightly more clearance between the truck and the center rail than before:

This is the trickiest spot on my layout for gear to navigate- a dreaded S curve between two 022 switches. But as you can see here, no sparking and no derailments:

My last thought on this car is that as John has noted, the tolerances inside the couplers are very tight. Although the uncouple function works, the couplers take too much force to close so connecting them by just running into the adjacent car doesn’t work.

This is the case on both ends. If I uncouple the adjacent car, recouping to the Menard’s car works fine. 

So in all I like the car and now I can at least use it on the layout, but the couplers are not perfect and I’m not sure I would buy a whole dealer pack of these if I couldn’t remotely uncouple AND couple them. My attic layout isn’t really conducive to doing that by hand. 

Thanks to @gunrunnerjohn and those who weighed in on this and hope it’s helpful for others experiencing similar issues. 

Kevin

Must be some QC issues with the trucks they are using. I have a New Haven box car that has issues with the gauge of the wheels. They are a bit too narrow and the car derails. I also had to remove the air tank and bracket from the bottom of the car. It was hitting the center rails going over my 5121 switches.

Yes- the couplers need help too.

I have some cars from 2018 and I don't have any issues with the trucks on them.

CoastsideKevin posted:

Ill start by saying I love Menard’s stuff. Looks great and an amazing price point, so I have a number of items on my layout. Now that the prop 65 issue is starting to run its course (shipping to CA), I was excited to try out this new tank car:

It really is a terrific looking piece for 20 bucks. However...

Day 1 and the reflective stickers began to peel off. Ok, not a big deal. Can live with that. However...

See those uncoupler tabs hanging down in the center of the trucks? They short when going over the frogs in my 022 turnouts and derail the train. I think they hang down just a little too low.

In any case, I can’t run the car on the layout and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this and, if so, can recommend a fix?

My other Menard’s rolling stock doesn’t have this problem so hoping it’s just a fluke.

Thanks for any suggestions!

I will be following this thread closely, as I have a Menard's Tank car ordered and on the way.

CoastsideKevin posted:

Mixed Freight posted:

The easiest fix for the peeling stickers is to peel them all off and throw them in the trash.  There are already vertical lines printed on the tank that the stickers are placed over.

That's my fix, anyway. 

Ha, I love it! I may end up going that route, Paul. If I can get this one working, I’m tempted to order more of them. 

Okay, I have to fess up - I have two of those tank cars, but hadn't peeled the stickers off yet.

So when trying to peel them off, they didn't want to come off so good.  Instant idea - soak them down good with a Q-tip soaked in mineral spirits.  Let them sit a few minutes, THEN peel them off with a set of tweezers.

El Perfecto!!!  Came off a whole lot easier!  And any residue was easily cleaned up with the still-wet Q-tip and paper towel.

I should mention - these are models of steam-era tank cars (the bulk of which were built in the 1920's, and virtually scrapped out by the 1980's) with MODERN-DAY markings on them.  Totally UNprototypical, based on the markings.  But nothing that a good set of decals and a repaint wouldn't take care of. 

Mixed Freight posted:

CoastsideKevin posted:

Mixed Freight posted:

The easiest fix for the peeling stickers is to peel them all off and throw them in the trash.  There are already vertical lines printed on the tank that the stickers are placed over.

That's my fix, anyway. 

Ha, I love it! I may end up going that route, Paul. If I can get this one working, I’m tempted to order more of them. 

Okay, I have to fess up - I have two of those tank cars, but hadn't peeled the stickers off yet.

So when trying to peel them off, they didn't want to come off so good.  Instant idea - soak them down good with a Q-tip soaked in mineral spirits.  Let them sit a few minutes, THEN peel them off with a set of tweezers.

El Perfecto!!!  Came off a whole lot easier!  And any residue was easily cleaned up with the still-wet Q-tip and paper towel.

I should mention - these are models of steam-era tank cars (the bulk of which were built in the 1920's, and virtually scrapped out by the 1980's) with MODERN-DAY markings on them.  Totally UNprototypical, based on the markings.  But nothing that a good set of decals and a repaint wouldn't take care of. 

Ah, good to know. I was thinking of using Goo-Gone on the stickers. That stuff is magic!

Taking most self-adhesive stuff off is simple with no chemicals, just apply a little heat.  I warm gummed labels up with my heat gun, about 95% of them come off whistle-clean.  If they leave a residue when you peel them off, then the solvent of your choice will quickly remove the gummy residue.

Mixed Freight posted:

I should mention - these are models of steam-era tank cars (the bulk of which were built in the 1920's, and virtually scrapped out by the 1980's) with MODERN-DAY markings on them.  Totally UNprototypical, based on the markings.  But nothing that a good set of decals and a repaint wouldn't take care of. 

They indeed may be unprototypical, but not everyone in the hobby has the layout size to allow full scale prototypical cars to be run on a layout. So my personal approach with the repaint and decals is to come forward in time, not go backwards.  Much like what Menards did with this particular tank car being discussed: To make something appear to be more contemporary or modern, albeit as in a "representation" instead of a precision scale proportioned model.

Kind of ironic so many comments are made about prototypical fidelity here on here on the traditional forum. Even by the admission of Lionel, although the high end stuff garners all the excitement and conversation, it is still the traditional starter set line that keeps Lionel in business.

As with many of the Menards cars, the following below, are also unprototypical: Wrong tank car body, wrong style caboose body, box car with full side ladders and roof walk - and all undersized. Oh, and like many Menards cars, my CSX boxcar is the wrong shade of blue... but I did that intentionally.

So I work with what I have to work with, which the real railroads often have to do to remain profitable. By that thinking, maybe I'm a little more "prototypical" than I realize.

Were it not for the traditional line of trains, I'd have no other option but to go to HO or N scale. Which, if truth be told, is the inspiration for the contemporary scale line offerings of 3-rail trains: To keep 3-rail customers from switching to HO or N scale.

And if the whole 3-rail hobby was prototypical precise scale sales driven, I highly doubt the Menards rolling stock would be doing as well as it appears to be doing. Even most of the Menards buildings have a smaller foot print, because MOST people don't have the space on their layouts for large, accurately proportioned structures.

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

They indeed may be unprototypical, but not everyone in the hobby has the layout size to allow full scale prototypical cars to be run on a layout. So my personal approach with the repaint and decals is to come forward in time, not go backwards.  Much like what Menards did with this particular tank car being discussed: To make something appear to be more contemporary or modern, albeit as in a "representation" instead of a precision scale proportioned model.

Brian, you make a good point, and perhaps I come off as sounding a little harsh over scale fidelity.  I was merely pointing out the historical facts about the decoration scheme on this era of tank car, for the benefit of people who may not realize it's not quite accurate.  But on the other hand, I appreciate the fact that they're black UTLX, and look a LOT better (in my eyes) than some of the other bright fantasy schemes offered on these tank cars.

I have no problem with anybody buying them for any reason.  Just as long as they know a little history.

Don't worry, I follow your posts, really like what you do, and understand why you do it since you have explained the reasons.  Believe it or not, but you (and a few others on this forum) inspired me to go ahead and keep all my smaller O27-sized train stuff that I have acquired over the past few years.  I'm starting to warm up to the idea of having some under-size trains in prototypical (or even somewhat plausible) markings, based on what you have done with yours.  Keep up the good work, I'm always looking forward to seeing more of your stuff. 

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

Mixed Freight posted:

I should mention - these are models of steam-era tank cars (the bulk of which were built in the 1920's, and virtually scrapped out by the 1980's) with MODERN-DAY markings on them.  Totally UNprototypical, based on the markings.  But nothing that a good set of decals and a repaint wouldn't take care of. 

They indeed may be unprototypical, but not everyone in the hobby has the layout size to allow full scale prototypical cars to be run on a layout. So my personal approach with the repaint and decals is to come forward in time, not go backwards.  Much like what Menards did with this particular tank car being discussed: To make something appear to be more contemporary or modern, albeit as in a "representation" instead of a precision scale proportioned model.

Kind of ironic so many comments are made about prototypical fidelity here on here on the traditional forum. Even by the admission of Lionel, although the high end stuff garners all the excitement and conversation, it is still the traditional starter set line that keeps Lionel in business.

As with many of the Menards cars, the following below, are also unprototypical: Wrong tank car body, wrong style caboose body, box car with full side ladders and roof walk - and all undersized. Oh, and like many Menards cars, my CSX boxcar is the wrong shade of blue... but I did that intentionally.

So I work with what I have to work with, which the real railroads often have to do to remain profitable. By that thinking, maybe I'm a little more "prototypical" than I realize.

Were it not for the traditional line of trains, I'd have no other option but to go to HO or N scale. Which, if truth be told, is the inspiration for the contemporary scale line offerings of 3-rail trains: To keep 3-rail customers from switching to HO or N scale.

And if the whole 3-rail hobby was prototypical precise scale sales driven, I highly doubt the Menards rolling stock would be doing as well as it appears to be doing. Even most of the Menards buildings have a smaller foot print, because MOST people don't have the space on their layouts for large, accurately proportioned structures.

Brian: Very interesting points you make. I have thought of switching to HO myself. Part of my frustration is with all the size variations in the O gauge world, but going scale would require an investment I'm not prepared to make. HO is all one size and would be comparatively a smaller investment.

So even though my layout is 40' x 11', it is not set up for O scale gear because I'm using the O31 switches I already had, instead of buying 18 new wide radius switches. I guess I also just work with what I've got! The Menard's buildings and rolling stock suit me just fine.

Kevin 

Mixed Freight posted:

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

They indeed may be unprototypical, but not everyone in the hobby has the layout size to allow full scale prototypical cars to be run on a layout. So my personal approach with the repaint and decals is to come forward in time, not go backwards.  Much like what Menards did with this particular tank car being discussed: To make something appear to be more contemporary or modern, albeit as in a "representation" instead of a precision scale proportioned model.

Brian, you make a good point, and perhaps I come off as sounding a little harsh over scale fidelity.  I was merely pointing out the historical facts about the decoration scheme on this era of tank car, for the benefit of people who may not realize it's not quite accurate.  But on the other hand, I appreciate the fact that they're black UTLX, and look a LOT better (in my eyes) than some of the other bright fantasy schemes offered on these tank cars.

I have no problem with anybody buying them for any reason.  Just as long as they know a little history.

Don't worry, I follow your posts, really like what you do, and understand why you do it since you have explained the reasons.  Believe it or not, but you (and a few others on this forum) inspired me to go ahead and keep all my smaller O27-sized train stuff that I have acquired over the past few years.  I'm starting to warm up to the idea of having some under-size trains in prototypical (or even somewhat plausible) markings, based on what you have done with yours.  Keep up the good work, I'm always looking forward to seeing more of your stuff. 

Paul - well said. I thought about going Scale but the idea of changing over basically everything I have was too daunting. I'd rather just go HO at that point, so I'll stick with my semi-scale stuff for now.