Menards O-Gauge Track

The owner and friend of my LHS literally gave me a 30 inch straight for free. It appeared galvanized? Also was somewhat "flaky" as in the rails were not smooth and felt they had something on them. The pins were somewhat loose, even with pliers and or crimping tool. Still, every train except a pre-war electric(the 254e) has worked fine on the section of track.

Today I just happened to get a delivery from Menards, including 2 of  the 30 inch sections. Love them so far, just smooth sailing. Issues with pin-fitting have appeared to be rectified AND everyone train I have run on it has worked so far. Can't speak for their curves, unfortunately.

Hope this helps! -Steve

I purchased new tubular Williams track from Hennings last Spring.  It's as good as any track ever put out by Lionel or K-Line.  I tried Menards tubular track three years ago and was disappointed with it, for the reasons pointed out by Steve.  I also stayed with 10" straights instead of the long 30" variety.  For my small layout the 10" straights allow for easy track changes.  The few pieces of 30" Menards track I still have are used for cutting into oddball lengths.  

I purchased 042 curves two years ago the first part of Dec. ( Dec 2016) and found the pins loose in the majority of the pieces.  The track twisted very easily (track was not attached to the ties as well as it could have been) and I added insulation between the rail and ties on a couple of pieces.  Just over a year ago (Dec. 2017)  I added some track and needed several more curved sections.  I thought I might be able to find enough if I "picked over" the stock at the store.   Very pleasant surprise, every piece I  tried the pins fit very nicely as they should and the twisting no longer evident.  I left the store, went home, and ordered a case of 042. ( could purchase a case for very little more than the pieces I needed)  I have no direct experience with straights on the layout but the pieces I tried in the store were good.  I am satisfied with the track having experienced no problem with it for the past year.

I would use it again if I needed track. 

Hope this helps a bit. Ron

I purchased two cases of O36, and two cases of 10” straights about four months ago.  I’ve used nearly all of it, and am extremely pleased. When you consider the price- including shipping costs is half, or even a third of other tubular, let alone the asking price of Fastrack...it’s an easy decision.  I’ve purchased a few half pieces out of convenience from a LHS, and I fail to see why track with an L or a WBB on it deserves its price premium.  Especially considering it’s made in Asia as well.

I made about a dozen curve and straight insulated sections, and soldered two dozen for power drops. This was all very easy.  Yes, I tightened a few pins & ties, but not many. 

Bear in mind that I live in south central PA, and have almost a dozen train shops locally, and at least forty train shops within a two hour drive. Including some of the “big names” on this page’s header.  I can count on one hand the shops that actually stock tubular, and I feel lucky to have them!

Tom

You wont be dissapointed. The issues of when it first came out are long gone. I ordered a few straight sections to try it out, and it is strong, No issues, and the rails were shiny. Its the exact match of Lionel, there are just no names or where its made from stamped into the ties :-)

My sincere thanks to all who took the time to reply.  I think I will make a small order and if satisfied proceed to get more.  Thanks again.  This is a GREAT forum, thanks to all of you.

Gene

Speaking of soldering to Menards track, I had difficulty doing so.  The galvanized like finish just would not accept the hot solder.  

Dan Padova posted:

Speaking of soldering to Menards track, I had difficulty doing so.  The galvanized like finish just would not accept the hot solder.  

I don't bother soldering to tubular track anymore. I use crimp-on spade connectors and insert them into the seam on the underside of the rail. It is fast, works fantastic and you don't need a soldering iron.

All of my Menards track purchased in the last year has been great! I even use their Fastrack transition pieces. 

George

Dan Padova posted:

Speaking of soldering to Menards track, I had difficulty doing so.  The galvanized like finish just would not accept the hot solder.  

A little green scotchbrite rubbing on the bottom of the rail, not through the plating, but to give it a nice surface. I followed by a cleaning with alcohol.  I used rosin core 60/40 solder with lead (sorry about that, state of California)  then covered it all with Star brite brand liquid electrical tape.  

I had read that the Weller 100 watt iron is the gold standard, but couldn’t justify the $1.25 per watt price tag. I bought a Weller 80 watt iron for $24, and it worked nicely.  Plenty for quick heating of the rails of the rather long O36 curves.  The iron, liquid tape & solder was a total of around $35, all from Home Depot.  When I add up how many drops for track power I’ve made, plus all the outer rail drops to activate accessories, I believe that it has to be cheaper than two dozen Lockons.  It’s a strong joint that doesn’t come off when you’re pulling it through from below the table, with the added benefit of being able to hang yourself when your wife finds out how much the new locomotive was.  

Weller 100/140 gun; $69.26 w/ free shipping.  Recommended by Jim Barrett for soldering to track.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-...20-140+soldering+gun

Pingman posted:

Weller 100/140 gun; $69.26 w/ free shipping.  Recommended by Jim Barrett for soldering to track.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-...20-140+soldering+gun

Pingman

I did see guns, but wanted a soldering pen. When I handled the guns, they seemed a bit large and unwieldy to me. Apparently the standard Weller 100w pen style is a fixture in stained glass making, and although common, seemed inordinately overpriced. When I searched for this image, I did notice their price had dropped somewhat. 

The 80w Weller I got for $24 is a newer product, and its LED lights were fantastic for these old, tired eyes. 

   I like a hot iron. I use a 200-260w, which is often cheaper than the smaller guns. I priced a couple places at under $40.

Menards 100-150w Wall-Lenk is also under $40.  

  (My track was prefect )

noswad posted:

Thinking seriously about using old style Lionel O-Gauge track for a layout, but . . . want new track and to avoid the hassle of hunting down and repairing old track.  Am looking for first hand reports on the new Menard's O-Gauge track.  I saw some poor reviews shortly after it came out, but several people have suggested that they have worked out some problems and it's decent track now.

If you have any first hand experience, especially recently, I would like to hear your opinion!

Thanks in advance.  Gene

There has to be at least a dozen threads on here covering how the first years worth of Menards track had quality issues, but that it has been great ever since.  Drives me nuts to see people continuing to post comments based on their experience with track from like 2014.  Menards tubular track sold today will be in service 75 years from now (while WE won't), just like tubular track from 75 years ago!  I don't think we can say the same for the plastic-based track Lionel & MTH now sells.

I used Menards track for everything but switches and remote control tracks when I started my new layout in 2017. I used 30” and 10” straights, O42 and O36 curves. It has been great, no issues at all. Here are a couple pictures of it.

I keep hoping Menards will make switches and rubber roadbed for their track.

I would like to see O24" diameter curves, but have given up hope.

If I need any O gauge track I will probably go the route of Menards, I presently have about 200 sections of the 10" straight, at least 50 sections O-31 curve, enough , O42 to do two circles, O54 1 circle plus a few pieces and I happened across 3 boxes of new in box of O-72 curve track. I have about 20 O22 switches, and more than needed cross over both 90 and 45. The idea of 30" straight intrigues me so may be looking into that in the near future.  

Somehow the thread veered off topic a bit when the discussion turned to soldering irons, guns, and pencils.  Glad to see it is back on track.

F-P's remark about a Weller 100 watt gun costing $1.25 per watt was what motivated my Amazon reply and reference to Jim Barrett's article on soldering from several years ago.

Long straights are kinda cool; smoooth.  The sound sort of reminds me of GarGraves lengths with the lack of joint clack. I like the extra stability it brings on elevations and grades (built grade transitions with short track, steady grade with these)

Joe Rampolla posted:

I would like to see O24" diameter curves, but have given up hope.

I'm in line with you Joe.  (I can run a 2-6-4  2037 on 20" hand bent. 24" is almost huge compared to that.) 

From trolly lines to street lines to tight switcher run arounds, etc., it has a potential for use where compression is needed imo.  Look how many folks bought Super Streets and the like, not for running cars&trucks , but just to have a tighter radius somewhere it was needed.  (Mark, are you reading? )

Ross posted:

Ross, that's a great looking military scene in the background of this photo!  The rest is pretty sweet, too. :-)

TRRR

Adriatic posted:

I'm in line with you Joe.  (I can run a 2-6-4  2037 on 20" hand bent. 24" is almost huge compared to that.)

I found that most O27 stuff will run on O24 curves (measured like O27 curves from the outside tie edge).  The locos look like they're about to run off of the track on the tight curve, but they don't.  O24 in GarGraves (not measured from the center rail) isn't as forgiving as the tubular round rail, and I vowed never again to bend GarGraves to that tight a curve.  I have reformed O27 tubular to O24, but it takes time and can be a little tedious.  Time for some manufacturer to step in!!!  Could command a premium price (think Fastrack prices).