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I was messing with some turnouts on my layout over the weekend, and snapped the tie which holds both the points, it split right at the hole in the center. I tried standard super glue and that didn't hold at all.

The guy who helped me wire the layout is adamant that I can ACC a bar of styene over the top of the tie, drill a hole in that, and use the blue points I'm trying to mount to the other turnouts.

I'm not 100% convinced but I really don't want to break out the solder gun and yank it out for a new one (which I don't have and would be a couple of weeks before I could even get one if I decided to go that route).

Anyone ever repaired one of these in place?

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P51,

 

Broken switch points are a PITA.

Though I agree with the fellow who suggests a CA tie over the two broken sides, I have never done so myself. I can, however, give you some general layout advice. NEVER go for the quick fix. Always go for the permanent solution even if it means removing and fixing the turnout. 

 

If the turnout is accessible, you can try a manual throw with a different turnout.

Perhaps a San Juan turnout?

 

Another suggestion is the "Freerails" Forum narrow gauge section.

 

scrappy

Last edited by Scrapiron Scher

ACC worked well to connect it back. My plan is to use 2-part epoxy in a film over top of that. I've used that on 1:1 scale stuff. Once I used it to secure a nut from not moving along a bolt. I'm put that through ridiculous street and it's never even cracked.

I plan on trying that out soon enough, but I'll probably buy an extra turnout just like it, just in case. the nearest local hobby shop with On30 stuff is about 50 miles away...

Well, I was going to finish mounting my blue points, leaving this broke turnout until I can try the epoxy, when I ran the last blue point to an OK turnout. That had all the cables connected due to where it was located, and I guess the tension on that while I was trying to get it in place was too much. The piano wire running up from he blue point sliced that points bar in half as well, at the hole, just like the other one! The funny part is that they're adjacent to each other.

DANG IT! no

So now I really need to try this epoxy fix! That'll happen tomorrow night...

Well, I tried for 3 hours to make these damaged turnouts work. One snapped immediately in half again so I'm done trying to fix it.
the other held well and I mounted the blue point under it.
but no matter what I did, even though the turnout points went the right way and looked to be pointing in the right direction, every car derailed and some just went the other way. I'm pretty sure I damaged one rail somehow I just can't see.
I'm done with trying to fix them. Out they'll come.
I'm going to buy two each replacements just to be sure I'll have one that'll work.
I came this far, just at the end of where I need to be ton run trains, to have new things happen to prevent it mo matter what I do.
I was so ticked last night. I keep hearing that this is supposed to be fun.
Hasn't happened yet.

I had to order replacements (I'm so unimpressed with the design, I've ordered two of each, just in case I have problems with them as well) for these turnouts but managed to get to my local hobby shop right before work yesterday to nab a one of the two i need to replace as I doubt the Micro Mark order will get here by this weekend.

One turnout had some ties pop off the rails permanently just from being taken out of the package. Micro Engineering's ad copy should read, "Convining modelers to hand-lay their own track, one product at a time," due to the ridiculously fragile nature of their products.

Just had to vent a bit. If this is all that happens, I'll be fine as some ACC will surely fix this minor thing. I've never seen any track products this fragile.

This weekend, the plan is to break out the soldering iron and try to figure out how to remove a turnout and re-install in the same place as I've never done that before when everything's soldered in place...

Originally Posted by p51:

...snapped the tie which holds both the points, it split right at the hole in the center.

 

Possible solution:  place a piece of strip styrene over the throw rod tie, like a splint, then drill holes at both ends of the styrene strip into the tie.  Insert short sections of styrene rod into the holes with a tight, friction fit.  If necessary, secure the rods to the strip with styrene glue.  Drill a hole in the styrene strip for the switch machine connection.

how about drilling small whole on each of the 2 halves where the tie is broken,  then inset the wire threw the 2 holes and tighten the wire. Then JB weld over and under the wires to complete the repair. You'll have to put was paper under or between the rails so the JB weld does not adhere to anything but what you want repaired,wait 24 hours and file or dremel to make the repair neat and not bulging. will be better then new!

Alan Mancus

If you want a quicker repair mix baking soda on the repair and wax paper as mentioned earlier, then drop a few drops of super glue you must drops the drops quickly as the mixture will get hard a rock instantly, then  you can clean up dremel  or files as was mentioned earlier, this will HOLD the repair

permanently and it will look like an off white color

Alan

Got a lot done last night.
I yanked out the two busted turnouts after wrestling with the solder iron.
I then replaced the turnouts, installed the final blue point and checked everything with some freight cars. They seemed to like the turnouts. The one turnout with the bad points had a rail almost completely borken free from the ties, which is why it'd never allign. I'm really glad I replaced that one especially, knowing this was the issue.
I'm going to test run a loco over them either tonight or tomorrow just to be sure before soldering the rails back together again.
The ones that were replaced are numbered 4 and 5 in the photo.

Once the soldering is done, my layout will FINALLY be ready for operation.
It was a pain to do and cost some coin, but at least now I don't have to worry about a fix breaking loose.

I have fixed other turnouts, like Old Pullman with the same problem.

 

pdx1955 above suggested the best option IM experience, using a piece

of pc board.

 

Firewood also suggested above JB Weld, I have had a lot success with

fixing temporary track problems with JB Weld, many fixes have lasted

so good, I have been slow to get around to the real repairs.

 

ncng

Odd. The one turnout with the #5 in the photo two posts ago, the point rails are sometimes popping out of the connectors that hold them to the turnout after a couple of quick clicks with the blue point. It just started so I'm thinking that maybe the connectors have slid back a little but I'm not sure. Of course this started happening right after I did ballast work, so removing it would be a royal pain as everything is soldered together (and besides, it's not exactly broken as such).

Anyone have an idea how to fix that? Would sliding those connectors just a little bit toward the end points likely fix this?

Sorry, no blue point...but maybe...

  I think this post did inspire me to finally fab my own 2 curve turnout from a couple extra B.mann 18" roadbed curves just to see how hard it was. I used rail connectors at the point rails pivots. The bar holds the rails in place. The rest hardly applies for you, pretty /scale were not on the agenda, only function, and only 2ft long max. leading to a mine portal.

   I'm confident enough now, to no longer hesitate on a "small track" hand build. Losing the roadbed would only make it easier IMO.(if the track doesn't fall apart) It went fairly smoothly and took only a few hours counting the glue drying. (JBw & Gorilla gel super)

Thanks for the inspiration, and I sure hope you get this licked Lee.

   Did you consider rebuilding one of the "junkers" over time to a higher standard for future use should one fail?

p51 posted:

Odd. The one turnout with the #5 in the photo two posts ago, the point rails are sometimes popping out of the connectors that hold them to the turnout after a couple of quick clicks with the blue point. It just started so I'm thinking that maybe the connectors have slid back a little but I'm not sure. Of course this started happening right after I did ballast work, so removing it would be a royal pain as everything is soldered together (and besides, it's not exactly broken as such).

Anyone have an idea how to fix that? Would sliding those connectors just a little bit toward the end points likely fix this?

P51,

I've encountered the same problem - after ballasting just like you...  I was able to use a small screw driver to move the connectors (rail joiners) back into the proper position.  I now check all new ME turnouts to make sure they are in proper position before installing.  ME turnouts sure require a lot of effort to "get right" but  work fine afterwards.  Mine get a lot of use...

I figured it out yesterday right before my op session. I took some small needle-nose pliers as the connectors looked to be in the exact same position as the other turnouts.

So, I squeezed them a little once I popped the rails out. Then, with a lot of swearing under my breath (and praying I wasn't above the rip the rails right off the ties), they both went into place and aren't moving further.

So, if it happens again, I know where to go.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

I looked into them at one point but wasn't familiar with their products.

Going back and swapping out all the track (which was ballasted and painted a while back) wouldn't be practical even for a small layout. Just saying that if I'd had it to do again, for durability, I would have gone with Peco track products.

Hi Lee,  I know this may not be what you would like to do, however, you might want to try Fast Tracks jigs, they are fantastic.  www.handlaidtrack.com.    Their jigs are the best I've ever seen and their turnouts are tremendous.  I have two of the jigs, one for Sn3 and the other for On30.  ME turnouts are I believe about $25 to $30 each and not always available unless things have changed at ME.  The upfront cost of the FT jigs is a little steep but once you get the hang of it, you can whip out a turnout in less than 20 minutes.  I have friend that turned me on to them and he can make them in under 15 minutes.  Here is another nice thing about them, when you build the switch, the cost is less than $5, which to me is a huge plus.  You buy the rail, switch ties, PCB ties and solder in bulk and then your costs are kept very low as compared to ME costs.

They have an instructional video that comes with the starter set if I remember correctly and it explains and shows you everything you need to know.  The first few are a little hairy as you are making them up but once you get the hang of it, they go very quickly.  You can also send them an e-mail and they will get back to you super quick  please check out their web site, it is amazing.  They also have a huge amount of of over-lays to help you in your planning stages.  Find the ones you want and print them out and lay them on your track route.

I don't work for them, just a super satisfied customer and user, or if you will, A Happy Camper.

 

Last edited by J. Motts

We have 40 plus ME #5 turnouts.  The way we got them to work reliably was to replace ALL of the throw tiebars with slightly wider pc board tiebars.  We did not gap them right exactly in the middle.  This leaves a little copper for the throw wire to run and adds to the strength of the hole.  The gap doesn't care where it is so we just gapped them close to one of the running rails.  They ALL work smoothly now.  

For the rail joiner / point problem we moved them into place and then a little CA on the end towards the frog.  They now stay in place.  Russ

J. Motts posted:

Hi Lee,  I know this may not be what you would like to do, however, you might want to try Fast Tracks jigs, they are fantastic.  www.handlaidtrack.com.     

No slam on you or the others still responding to this, but I'm not sure some folks are aware that I'd originally posted this over 18 months ago. The turnouts have been repaired and ballasted and I have long since moved on, on this subject...

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