Microengineering flextrack

I have some micro engineering and it's fine. A little tough to bend but if you take your time it goes ok. Personally the weathered version isn't worth the couple extra bucks. My mainline is atlas and it just flexes without a problem. The prices you found seem pretty good. Not sure how much atlas is available yet.

Ralph

I used the Microengineering non weathered and installed it with no problems. My curve radii are pretty wide. After it was laid I painted the web with a stifle brush. No problems and no problems with the track. I recommend it.

Thanks Ralph for the info.
According to Atlas,they hope to have most products in full production by the september-October time frame. JD Hobbies seems to have Atlas flextrack.
Thanks again.
Al

Thanks much for the information.
I found the Microengineering,runs about $2.50 per section of flextrack cheaper than Atlas.
How do you make your track radii? In HO&N you can buy ready made templates on cardboard but not so in O Scale.
Thanks again,
Al

I wouldn't call ME track flexible, I'd call it bendable.  Once you bend it straightening it out is an exercise in patience.  Know what you want to bend it to before bending it.  It will hold a bend whereas the Atlas track will bounce back to straight.

There are many ways to layout curves.

 

I make a template by cutting foam board with the radius of the centerline of the track.  Then using the template I mark the centerline on my sub road bed. 

 

I "ease" the curve at either end where it transitions to the tangent track.  Easments is another subject.  You can find lots of info about easements on the internet and in track design books like the famous John Armstrong Track Planning for Realistic Operation book>

 

For my 64" radius curve template it took several pieces of foam board to make the complete 90 degree curve template and I just put them together with blue masking tape so they can be partially disassembled when not in use. A one piece full 90 degree curve template is very cumbersome.

 

But, again.  There are many ways to layout curves. 

Not to make a pun, rdunniii nailed it when he stated it was more or less bendable.  Beside the detail of rail and ties, its one of the things I like about it. After I cut and installed my curved strips of plywood sub-roadbed, I marked a center line, glued on Woodland Scenics roadbed and then carefully worked the track to that radius.  Made it easier to to tack down without it trying to spring back straight.  

Thanks everyone for your replies on Microengineering track.
What I'm still missing is how to draw radii lines,short of buying preassembled curved sections.
How do I establish my centerlines?
Thanks,
Al

Well you can use a screw,string and a pencil. 

It is called a trammel. You need a long stick, a pencil, two C-clamps, and a pointy thing that will pivot on something placed at the center of the radius.  I laid an oval of this stuff for an older buddy, and I just marked inner and outer arcs to match the ends of the ties.

Oops! Chris beat me to it - pencil and string works fine, too, and is easier to find.

Well about 25 years ago a modeler had a thing for sale to my faded knowledge,that was possibly a yardstick with a screw on 1 end. Then somehow you could put a pencil at,I guess(?) the inch mark desired&make a circle? Is this stupid or is my memory correct?
Thanks,
Al

String does not work fine.  It will stretch and you will have an oval.  Of course, it depends on how finicky you are.

Also, centerlines are a pain.  I prefer the line at the edge of the ties.  Just an opinion though.  

Cheers,

Ed

There is always string that doesn't stretch.  The problem with the yardstick is that your max radius is around 36" - contrary to popular opinion, that is probably too sharp for all but e smallest O Scale models.

 

While Ed and I agree centerlines are tough to work with, some say that radius of the curve is measured from the centerline.  I measure mine from the inner rail, and have 60, 64, 70, and 74" radii based on the inner rail.

That's what I realized so the only solution would be to make a yardstick witk=h the desired radii marked off then make templates fron light would or heavy cardboard.
I agree about the centerline being tough to work with. I'm planning on mostly using 40" on sidings,48"   54" &60"on mains. What would be the inside diamater&outside diameter for each of these radii allowing for foam roadbed?
Thanks,
Al

I use these for drawing circles. you can easily cut a longer piece of wood for making a larger radius.  Grifhold yardstick compass, available at most art stores or online.

Thank you,this makes sense too.
Al

here's how I did it. 

 

Trammel made from 6' aluminum ruler. A Jigsaw base is screwed to one end, holes at specific radii drilled at the other.  The pivot block is a brass tube screwed to a piece of plywood:

 

 

 

The curve templates shown above are made of 1/2" MDF, using this jig.  The jigs are held to the layout board with finishing nails pushed through the holes. 

 

This is how I did easements:

 

I laid the outer half of the roadbed, securing in place with staples and white glue. I then removed the template and laid the inner half.  The joint between the roadbed halves is the track centerline

 

 

 

 

I'm planning on mostly using 40" on sidings,48"   54" &60"on mains

I'm relatively new to 2 rail, but my minimal experience makes me feel that those are very small radii.  However it's relative to the types of equipment you plan to operate.

 

I would hope those more knowledgeable might give some insight.

Thank you for the information&photos.
Al

Well I'm VERY NEW to O Scale in general,so I'm using knowledge from 30 years of HO Scale&taking advice from this forum. The 40" radius seemed very tight to me,but 40" cut in half is 20" in HO,which was a plenty gentle curve on HO sidings,which is all that'd be used for.
The 54" curve for mainlines,would be 27" in HO,which would also be a very gentle curve,so this is how I arrived at these radii in general.
One O Scale modeler told me that the tighter radius curves worked good with equipment not exceeding 72' long;he said it didn't look the greatest,but still worked well for him,derailment free. I'd probably go up from 54" for my 2nd mainline curve if I decide on 2 mains,running any 89' rolling stock on that.
Thanks for the input.
Al

Alan where did you find ME flex track in O Scale at the price you quoted, Generally it runs around $50 for 6-36" pieces

Mike P

 

Mike,
The place I found when I put Microengineering in my search bar, was Valley Model Trains,located in Wappingingero Falls,NY. 1-845-297-3866. (Not sure about the town,my writing on the pad's a little confusing.)
They list 6/36" pieces of weathered flextrack for$55.05&non-weathered for$53.15. I just ran the numbers through the calculator&it actually comes out to $8.8583333333. Weathered,it comes out to$9.19166666. That's better than I thought,if you can put up with the difficulty in bending,as many posts have noted here. It's certainly worth a try on my part,as my O Scale budget's sliping away fast.
Al

That's what I want to learn how to do - bridge the offset of the x-factor.

Mike,
I went&looked up Microengineering again&this time brought up Micro-Mark's listing. This listing has Microengineering in bundles of 6/36" sections for$8.65 per 3'section. Their shipping is $8.95 for $50 or less,then it goes up $1 for each additional $25 of cost. That's for 148 track.
I think I threw you off on my 1st message as I had something like $9+ but meant that for each 3' section not a bundle of 6-my wording would indicate the wrong idea when read the way I had it, as I left out,"per 3' section". That's still pretty decent in my limited knowledge of O Scale pricing.
Hope this helps.
Al

I have excess to my needs atlas o 2rail track.  contact me off list.  Bob

Bob am looking for Atas #5 tunouts RH or LH no matter&flex.
Thanks,Al

 

No,the newer design.
Al

sorry no help

 

how much flex do you need, have lots used from a previous layout, no ballast to remove, but some does have weathering (paint ).

does anybody need atlas o flex I have lots of good used available.

I stretched and pulled the dickens out of what I was using first (butchers twine) after which I was able to maintain consistency throughout the curve w/o problems.  I have found the simplest method often works the best...not always but often.   

For those who want accurate curves, Fast Tracks from Canada makes a product called Sweep Sticks.  They are a great aid in laying both flex and hand laid track.  Check them out here:    http://www.handlaidtrack.com/F...eepSticks-s/2221.htm

 

Peter

Thank you Peter just checked this product out will save MANY LONG HOURS! Only problem is they're out of stock on most things now.
Thanks,
Al

Bob:
Just got home&saw your post. Could you post a picture of your weathered as well as the non weathered?
If it's in nice shape,which of course I'm assuming it is,I'm just starting a layout,no plywood,table frames,nothing yet, but need 220' for just my mainlines no sidings included. 
Thanks,
Al

Alan,

How good is your carpentry?

Ed

Well Ed,I built 65' of shelving four levels high. I'm no pro by any means but am happy with my work.
Al