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I've not done it, but the only thing I can think of would be to replace the current couples with perhaps Kadee type knuckle couplers.  You might also consider posting your question on the 3RS forum as there are members on that forum that are very focused on trying to enhance the prototypical appearance and operation of their locomotives and rolling stock.  Bo 

 

 

You can visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

 

 

Originally Posted by railhead53:

I've not done it, but the only thing I can think of would be to replace the current couples with perhaps Kadee type knuckle couplers.  You might also consider posting your question on the 3RS forum as there are members on that forum that are very focused on trying to enhance the prototypical appearance and operation of their locomotives and rolling stock.  Bo   

Correct, Bo. As an experiment, I up-graded my set of Boston & Albany MTH heavyweight passenger cars, with Kadee #805 body mounted couplers. I mounted them, with the appropriate styrene shims, so that the knuckle was just under the edge of the diaphragm. Thus, when coupled, the diaphragms touched/closed. Everything worked out fine, but then I have no curves sharper than 072.

Originally Posted by RKoll:

Hot Water, do you thing your solution would work on 040 minimum curves and wher did you the Kadee 805's. Thank you for your help.

1) No, I do NOT think body mounted Kadee couplers on MTH Premier 18" passenger cars will work on 040 curves!

 

2) I think that you are asking "where did you get the Kadee 805s". When I needed large batches of Kadee couplers, I had a source for bulk purchases. Now that I no longer need "bulk supplies" of Kadee couplers, so I just purchase what I need from local hobby shops, or at larger train shows. I now use the new Kadee #740 couplers.

Originally Posted by Lee Willis:

If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.  

I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.

This is K-Line car retrofit

 


 

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Originally Posted by pennsyk4:
Originally Posted by Lee Willis:

If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.  

I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.

This is K-Line car retrofit

 


 

img1

img2

That would work, too.  The real point is that the close the gap you do not have to reduce the distance between cars -you can just length the bellows . . . 

Suggestions on a good source for these scale ones?
Thanks!
 
Originally Posted by pennsyk4:
Originally Posted by Lee Willis:

If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.  

I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.

This is K-Line car retrofit

 


 

img1

img2

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