I have the MTH 70' Madison Five Car Passenger set. I am looking for a way to close the 1/2 inch gap between the diaphragms. I assume I would have to change the couplers. Any ideas out there. Thanks
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I've not done it, but the only thing I can think of would be to replace the current couples with perhaps Kadee type knuckle couplers. You might also consider posting your question on the 3RS forum as there are members on that forum that are very focused on trying to enhance the prototypical appearance and operation of their locomotives and rolling stock. Bo
You can visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com
I'll repost, thanks
I've not done it, but the only thing I can think of would be to replace the current couples with perhaps Kadee type knuckle couplers. You might also consider posting your question on the 3RS forum as there are members on that forum that are very focused on trying to enhance the prototypical appearance and operation of their locomotives and rolling stock. Bo
Correct, Bo. As an experiment, I up-graded my set of Boston & Albany MTH heavyweight passenger cars, with Kadee #805 body mounted couplers. I mounted them, with the appropriate styrene shims, so that the knuckle was just under the edge of the diaphragm. Thus, when coupled, the diaphragms touched/closed. Everything worked out fine, but then I have no curves sharper than 072.
Hot Water, do you thing your solution would work on 040 minimum curves and wher did you the Kadee 805's. Thank you for your help.
Hot Water, do you thing your solution would work on 040 minimum curves and wher did you the Kadee 805's. Thank you for your help.
1) No, I do NOT think body mounted Kadee couplers on MTH Premier 18" passenger cars will work on 040 curves!
2) I think that you are asking "where did you get the Kadee 805s". When I needed large batches of Kadee couplers, I had a source for bulk purchases. Now that I no longer need "bulk supplies" of Kadee couplers, so I just purchase what I need from local hobby shops, or at larger train shows. I now use the new Kadee #740 couplers.
If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.
If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.
I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.
This is K-Line car retrofit
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Interesting you use the phrase "Mind The Gap" which is used throughout the London Underground. I am also trying to close the gap in diaphragms in some MTH heavyweights. So far, no success. Will report if I find a way, Fred
If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.
I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.
This is K-Line car retrofit
That would work, too. The real point is that the close the gap you do not have to reduce the distance between cars -you can just length the bellows . . .
I'm going to convert my MTH B&A to Kadee but was thinking of using the new 746 long shank.
Any thoughts?
If it is the GAP between the bellows only that is objectionable, you could just glue an extra bellows on one end of every car, extending the bellows already in place by about an extra 1/2 inch.
I think it would be easier and look better to replace with a precision scale diaphrarm.
This is K-Line car retrofit
Um, where would one find diaphragms in the first place. I have several passenger trains that would be immeasurably improved with the addtion of them.
All, thank you for your help.
Pennsyk4 where do you get the K Line Bellows Retro Kit? Thanks