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I was thinking I was one of the lucky ones, since I run my new Lionel Legacy Alco PA in factory setting engine 1 I am not having the problems addressing the engines that a lot of people are experiencing.  But....

Intermittently while running or when starting the rear unit would lose the signal, or so I thought, install causing the lead engine to try to drag it resulting in a horrible noise! I had assumed this problem was due to two of the rollers on the rear engine being stuck. They wouldn't roll and even after I lubricated them and played around with the pivot they still would not roll on the track. To test my theory I swapped out the two stuck rollers with two good ones from the other engine. To my surprise the problem kept happening. Usually the lead engine would pull the rear one along and it would get over it's momentary flicker. Only if they were going very slow would it stall out. So to try to figure it out I ran the rear engine by itself slowly around the track and sure enough when it hits a really tight curve (036 in this case) it will sometimes stall and the dreaded cab light starts blinking. Here is a video for you train detectives out there.Once I cut the power and give the engine a little shove on the track it starts right up again. 

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I'm not an expert on Legacy / TMCC.  But you might be in the envelope for motor over-current.  This is a built-in shutdown to protect the board.

A heavy loco like that trying to drag itself around a tight curve, with rubber tires on opposite ends of two axles, and maintain a speed that slow, has the speed control working very hard and the motors are just above stall speed.   I haven't seen the inside of one of these in a while.  But the circa-2000 release used RS-545 motors, which draw quite a bit more current than the smaller RS-385s that are ubiquitous in diesels.

So yes it will "run" on O36, but it would be happier at a faster speed.  If I'm right about what the blinking lights mean, the way you're operating it in the video is on the ragged edge of the performance envelope.

Based on your videos, I'm not sure that you wouldn't be happier with one of my regeared wonders that has the motor turning at least 600 rpm at 3 scale mph.  Unfortunately a lot of folks want 100 mph on the top end, so (except for the Legacy SW9 and maybe the Genset) Lionel doesn't sell them that way!

This is not factory setting error issue. Run the engines on the track separately... confirm one is running the same as the other. 

I would bet you are having an issue with the sensor wheel grinding it self down on the sensor board. Once the wheel is damaged, the units will never be in time with each other. I would pack these up and get an RA number in mid July.

Guys you are right! But I live in a New York City apartment and 036 is the best I can do. And while I agree that I  might never see the problem at higher speeds or wider curves, I bought this engine BECAUSE it is scale and yet can run on O36. Add to this the fact that the other engine in the set  has run on the same track for hours and hours and never once experienced the problem. And perhaps my stongest evidence why this COULD be able to work is I have the even larger E8 AA set from 2017 which has run on the same track flawlessly for more than a year. And, yes, I am a bit of a slow speed freak, that's what I love about Legacy, but that E8 crawls around at 1.5 SMH all day long without a complaint.

Yes, I am probably asking a lot out of this engine. However...it did cost $1000.00!!!

If it makes you feel any better My outside loop is O48 and my inside is O36. Granted I run the Alco's on the outside, but I'm also pulling the new 21" Challenger UP passenger cars. Yes, they will negotiate an O48 curve. Those Kinematic couplers are a lot more forgiving than Lionel leads them to be.

Ted I think you hit the nail on the head. I’ve been watching them run at slow speed for the last half hour and nothing goes wrong. The stall only seems to happen when trying to start on a curve. That jibes well with your ideas. So I think I will just avoid trying to start on a curved track and see how it goes. I’ve got a whole year on the warranty yet and those people struggling with the losing address problem should get fixed first anyway. At least I can still run my train without all the hassles they’re experiencing. Thanks for the analysis!

BNSF-Matt posted:

You might want to check your truck side frames and make sure they are all screwed down tight and even. I had to fix the one of my Lead A because it was hanging too low and causing a short when going across switches. Not saying that's the answer, but I would check them regardless.

I will do that Matt... you never know what’s going to be loose on a brand new engine these days! All that styrofoam still can’t protect them from rough shipping. I still think it might be the torque issue because I don’t see or hear any telltale sparking

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