MTH 4-6-4 Hudson Issue

Reading your post and checking a pic on the MTH site. A couple of questions to clarify your post.

 Is the tether becoming disconnected causing the engine to stop ?

 

 Or is the metal drawbar unhooking causing the engineer and tender to separate and eventually unseating the tether ?

 

 The picture shows a simple drawbar that appears to be truck mounted. If the engine and tender are seperating. Is something in your trackage causing the engines rear truck to lift up enough to unhook the two ?

The vertical leg of the coupler on the engine should be bent forward about 10 degrees so vertical motion does not disengage it from the tender. The wire tether should not have any tension on it.

Thanks for the feedback, the picture on MTH's site is a misleading. I've posted several pics so you can get a better idea.

I just returned my MTH Imperial B6 0-6-0 due to the wireless drawbar working loose while running. I'll also be curious to see if there are any ways to fully secure it. It is at my LHS now for repair. I've got a number of MTH engines with the old school cable tether - never an issue there. Not a fan of the wireless drawbar. 

Are the sides of the draw bar damaged?  It should lock in place.  Or, it is a damaged wire and not the draw bar. G

If the engine and tender are seperating. You may not have the drawbar fully seated. Grasp it with both forefingers with your hands around the tender and it should snap securely in place with an audible click.

 

From the catalog and description it didn't appear to have a wireless drawbar.

I have the exact same problem with my new MTH PENNSYLVANIA 4-6-0 STEAM 3.0  The tender bar after a period of use, works itself loose and the train stops and goes into shutdown mode.  I always have to re-snap or re seat the tender bar by pushing upwards and I'm good to go again. I think this may be an inherent problem of these new wireless draw bars...anyone know of a fix?

The best way to hook up the new wireless drawbar is to lay the engine and tender on a soft surface like a tee shirt. Then snap the drawbar together. Tip the engine onto the track and run. I have done this to all of my wireless drawbar steam engines And I never have a problem.

 

What has happened to some of you guys is the same as some of my friends. When you force the drawbar together you may break one of the teeth on the drawbar. If that is the case it will not snap in and stay together. 

 

If the drawbars are damaged they are very easy to replace, they come in a 3 pak of three different lengths. Available thru MTH and eBay. 

The "wireless" drawbar makes a "click" when properly engaged. You don't hear it; you feel it. I connect mine with the loco and tender on the track. I line everything up an use both hands on either side of the tender and evenly push the connection in place with my index fingers. I haven't had a problem yet.

Yes, I know...I feel the click and do the same procedure you do....it still works itself loose anyways....and I have to re engage again...annoying!  Does anyone know of an online dealer or member that has these draw bars for sale?

Check your drawbar to make sure none of the teeth is not loose or broken. Once the bar clicks it just don't come off. If one is loose or broken you need top replace the drawbar. Remember PS2 is 10 pin and proto 3 is 6 pin drawbar. 

 

Some engines are easier then others to connect but I still prefer to lay the engine and tender on their side and then connect the drawbar. By far the easiest way to do it. 

Thanks for the feedback, my problem appears to be the same as Erie Express. I "feel" the click when I connect the the wireless drawbar, and while it does stay connected for a small amount of time, it eventually loosens to the point where the engine loses power, prompting me to have to push it back in. I just was not sure if there was something I could use to help prevent the drawbar from loosening. Typically, the train can run for around 5 minutes before losing the connection. 

Yeah, the wireless thing (L and M both) has its drawbacks (drawbars?).

 

Sounds like the snappy things are bent (duh). Before you go buy anything (though

getting some hands-on repair experience with your loco would be a good idea),

try a little clear silicone in the area of attachment after you have it seated. Not a glob, and not on the contacts. Sort of a common-sense thing. I don't have one in front of me and I really have dealt with them very little. (I have a couple.)

 

Let it cure overnight and try it. This might be enough to hold it.