MTH PS1 Loco's will not exit reset

Check with Gunrunnerjohn  or Matt or Marty F  !  

Regarding PS-1 engines, assuming the battery is fresh and properly charged, upon initial start-up in order to leave reset the voltage should be no higher than 10 volts. Once you have left the reset state that is no longer necessary during that running session. If this does not solve your problem, then a reset #18 or use of a reset chip may be in order.

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society, MTH Technician

Thanks CHUG! I make sure to abide by the no more than 10 volts on startup thing any time I run a PS1 loco and I've tried the reset 18 function to no avail. I'll give a reset chip a shot and let you know how it goes.

The reset chip is ONLY for the three clanks, it won't do anything for other issues with the PS/1 boards.

I'd suggest trying a different transformer, with electronically controlled transformers, sometimes the 10 volts is really more to the PS/1 electronics.

CHUG, Before I tried a reset chip, I tried 3 loco's out one more time to see if they would work, and they all worked flawlessly on the main line (powered by a z4000). If I put them in the yard (powered by a z1000) and let them power off and try and power them back up again THEN they exhibit the not-exiting-reset problem. I swapped the transformers so that the z4000 powered the yard and the z1000 powered the main line, and I got the same result. When the locomotive is powered on by the z4000 it runs beautifully. When it's powered on by the z1000 it won't exit reset. I've verified this with 3 different locomotives that are all exhibiting the same problem. Is there something about a z1000 that's incompatable with some PS1 locomotives?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The reset chip is ONLY for the three clanks, it won't do anything for other issues with the PS/1 boards.

I'd suggest trying a different transformer, with electronically controlled transformers, sometimes the 10 volts is really more to the PS/1 electronics.

What do the three clanks mean?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The reset chip is ONLY for the three clanks, it won't do anything for other issues with the PS/1 boards.

I'd suggest trying a different transformer, with electronically controlled transformers, sometimes the 10 volts is really more to the PS/1 electronics.

Right you are John! Brain fade......

Eric

jhead posted:

When it's powered on by the z1000 it won't exit reset. I've verified this with 3 different locomotives that are all exhibiting the same problem. Is there something about a z1000 that's incompatable with some PS1 locomotives?

Yes, some (mostly early) PS1 locomotives will not exit reset if the output of the transformer is not a "pure" sine wave. The Z-controller is not a "pure" device, while the Z-4000 is "pure". Waveforms are discussed here, and here with some further discussion here, here, here & here. Also mentioned here, here, here & here, and probably elsewhere.

Three clanks mean that your PS1 engine is "dead" because the electronics are scrambled. Look up "three clanks of death" for more...

Some Z-1000 controllers do not put out a good signal.  Others do work fine.  I think there were several variations to that controller.  G

Just purchased a MTH Tinplate Std Gauge #9E Loco with PS1 that has the same issue. I tried three different transforms with only minor results from one.

- MTH Z-500 - would not leave Reset Mode

- MTH Z-1000 - would not leave Reset Mode

- Lionel CW80 - occassionally would exit Reset Mode and run in foward direction. This took a lot of effort and is in no way considered a good option.

Shouldn't have to purchase a specific transformer (Z-4000) to run one engine. I think I'll try my old post-war Lionel transformer tonight. Any other suggestions?

FWIW - I seem to recall that in the early years of MTH releases at the back of the Owner Manuals they usually included a chart showing which Lionel transformers were compatible and, EQUALLY IMPORTANT, what wire leads should be connected to the center rail and the outside rails in order for the MTH engine to run properly.

@Newt posted:

Just purchased a MTH Tinplate Std Gauge #9E Loco with PS1 that has the same issue. I tried three different transforms with only minor results from one.

- MTH Z-500 - would not leave Reset Mode

- MTH Z-1000 - would not leave Reset Mode

- Lionel CW80 - occassionally would exit Reset Mode and run in foward direction. This took a lot of effort and is in no way considered a good option.

Shouldn't have to purchase a specific transformer (Z-4000) to run one engine. I think I'll try my old post-war Lionel transformer tonight. Any other suggestions?

@Newt,

This issue has been raised many, many, many, many, many times on this forum.

PS1's are very picky, especially the oldest ones.

There are two methods for successfully leaving the initial reset state.  One applies to the very oldest PS1 models, perhaps just the very first year of production.  The other, which has instructions that seem to completely contradict the first method, applies to everything else.

Yes, as mentioned by @PH1975, there is a chart listing recommended transformers in the respective MTH instruction manuals, but these charts can be wrong or incomplete.  For instance most of them imply that Lionel TMCC (via a PowerMaster or TPC) won't work.  This was clearly true for the early stuff but newer PowerMaster models have special software in them and a 1-added-component hardware update that allows them to control PS1's just fine.  In fact, so far for me, this is the only reliable way I have to get my PS1's out of 'reset' every time, or almost every time (9 out of every 10 attempts for any given locomotive).

Here are the 'official' directions, with plenty of warnings mixed in, for successfully operating PS1, early models (thanks to @mort1345):

And follow this link to see what I use, all on later models, each successful 9 times out of 10:

        Protosounds stuff using a TPC-300, 6-14189, powered by a PH-180, and controlled by a CAB-2 | Mellow Hudson Mike

In my opinion the model of transformer or supply, e.g. Lionel PowerMaster or MTH TIU, is less important than how you apply the power.  What voltage to you set the transformer, PM, or TIU to upon power-up?  How long does it need to sit at this voltage, what voltage do you go to next?  Zero?  8 Volts?  Above 10 Volts?

Read the above references carefully and you'll figure it out.

Here's my quick take; try your existing transformers:

1. Apply power to a setting more than 10 VAC; you'll get two dings.
2. Hold it there for at least 30 seconds if it's been sitting for more than a week; 10 secs should be fine otherwise.
3. Reduce to below 8 VAC but not all the way off; you'll get a sound that reminds me of the transmission on old Buick dropping into Drive
4. Hit the Direction button.

It should roll immediately, unless it's locked in 'neutral'.

Good luck, and let us know when you get them working.

Mike