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NO, you need to make another cut. Right now the resistors are shorted.

Cut at red line.

IMG_8815

Last, measure with a meter the resistance at the wire solder points before powering!!!

Should be 8 Ohms. If you get a lower value near zero or 1 Ohm it's shorted and would kill the board.

Also- check any of the 4 wires compared to the metal cup and ensure NO shorts.

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  • IMG_8815
Last edited by Vernon Barry
@VADarthDad posted:

@Vernon Barry. Are you sure I need another cut?  I’m getting 8ohms. IMG_8816

Edit: Even though GGG replied, this is still my take on the situation- all things considered.

I would, and here is why:

#1 you solder joints look cold, which given the size and surface area- yeah not uncommon and not saying every joint I ever make is perfect. The point is, this unit heats up and expands and contracts each time running.

#2 as measured- sure, right now it's reading correctly, but what if it goes wrong and shorts???

#3 a short blows the board and could easily cost you about $200 all said and done. You ALREADY destroyed the functional PS1 smoke unit from working stand alone ever again. Another cut to be sure is cheap insurance on a $200 board set.

#4 this is why I recommend just buying a PS2/3 smoke unit outright, or minimally the upper PCB, when buying the upgrade kit, saving and NOT modifying and ruining the PS1 smoke unit that can be used in buildings or other smoke effects on your layout.

Either just the upper PCB

or entire unit to swap in.

AA0000095SMOKE UNIT / PS 2 & 3 / 7.5mm POST HEIGHT / 25mm W x 36mm L / BRASS CUP 3.7mm H / USE AA0000070$50.00/ea
Last edited by Vernon Barry

To each his own, but folks have been modifying PS-1 smoke units since the beginning.  Not sure how it measures fine then shorts.  Traces are not self-healing and that cut is pretty big.  Plus funnels can be model specific and many are press fit on PS-1.  So matching is not always easy.  G

Last edited by GGG

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