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I'm having a frustrating problem with a realtrax right turnout.  When the loco goes into the curve it invariably shorts out or derails.  There is a left turnout on the other end and no problem.  I used two right turnouts at the same location, but the same controller, with the same results.  The controller flips to the green with barely a touch, but to the red side, it either chatters or flips back, so I removed the controller and switched manually.  Same result!  Tried running loco from other direction, and it passes through turnout, but immediately stops on the next section of track.  The switches also show burrs where elec. current has burned the rail due to shortout.  I hope I have described the situation well enough that one of you gurus can solve the problem.  Maybe I just need a new switch?

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This sounds familiar.  Bench test the switch and see if it will function properly.  You can take the back off and check all the connections, look for burned spots, loose or broken wires.  Check the micro switches are making good connections.  Lube the working parts and retry... This sometimes clears up the problem you have.  Are you using track power, if so try using accessory power. 

 

Mort

Have had similar issues and eventually replaced the switch but initially found a burned out hot connection underneath and wired around the small circuit board.  However, this did not totally solve the problem. 

 

Note the burned out 'hot' line on the circuit board in the bottom right. This came from shorting on the switch. 

IMG_2088

 

Here is my fix, the red wire goes from the center pickup around to the screw with the copper fastener on the left.  This helped but did not totally eliminate the issue.  I believe the wire itself sometimes caused the switch mechanism to hang up a bit due to physical interference.  

IMG_2090

 

Like I said I just bought a new switch and all problems disappeared.  I also do use track power to activate switches and have no problem but I run DCS with 18V so the switches throw just fine.  If you are running conventionally you need at least 10V to activate the switches which is a lot when running conventional engines.  That is why people state to use accessory power, this is not an issue under DCS or command. 

 

Hope this helps. 

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I worked on a layout for a customer who was using RealTrax.  It had two switches that continually shorted and activated their derail function.  What ended up being the problem was that the switches were sticking down to the painted surface and pinching/breaking connections to the adjacent track.  The solution used was to put a piece of wax paper cut to the shape of the switch underneath it and that kept it from sticking.  By allowing it to "float" as trains ran over it solved the problem.  FWIW.

I've read all the comments but none of them worked for me. I have an MTH O42 switch INSIDE a reverse loop. The switch is OK in the straight position, but when I try to throw the points in the curve section, it keeps kicking back to straight. 

 

1. The switch operates perfect on the bench and in other parts of the layout, not within the reverse loop. 

 

2. I removed the jumper between Aux Power AC and Track AC out. I can turn the switch by hand, and no kick back to straight.

 

3. I connected a separate power supply to this switch as per instruction, one lead to the Aux AC power the other to Aux ACG, which is the same terminal as the remote switch common.

 

I am thinking that there is something special about putting an MTH switch within a reverse loop.

 

I am attaching a copy of the layout, and hope that someone can tell me what I need to do correct this.

 

Thanks

RAY

AA layout Mark

AA layout Mark

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Originally Posted by Ray of sunshine:

I've read all the comments but none of them worked for me. I have an MTH O42 switch INSIDE a reverse loop. The switch is OK in the straight position, but when I try to throw the points in the curve section, it keeps kicking back to straight. 

 

1. The switch operates perfect on the bench and in other parts of the layout, not within the reverse loop. 

 

2. I removed the jumper between Aux Power AC and Track AC out. I can turn the switch by hand, and no kick back to straight.

 

3. I connected a separate power supply to this switch as per instruction, one lead to the Aux AC power the other to Aux ACG, which is the same terminal as the remote switch common.

 

I am thinking that there is something special about putting an MTH switch within a reverse loop.

 

I am attaching a copy of the layout, and hope that someone can tell me what I need to do correct this.

 

Thanks

RAY

AA layout Mark

 

Ray,

 

Logically, this should have nothing to do with any switch within your reverse loop.  Based on your diagram, there is a total of 4 switches (not counting the one that creates the loop) within the reverse loop in question, and 3 of those 4 seem to be working properly.  Further, one of those 3 is actually part of a crossover on the other side of the loop.

 

Sorry, though, that I have no clue how to resolve the problem.

Chuck

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