MTH ScaleTrax and TORTOISE switch machines

hi Mike G I took a quick look at a online image of scale trax switch my best guess is from what I saw throw bar does not have a long area past the rails so you will have to drill a hole in the center of throw bar make sure you put a piece of wood under the throw bar otherwise you will break it due to flexing while drilling hole if you have the wire the tortoise came with match the drill size to it as not a huge hole is needed just big enough for that wire to go into hole drilled.

Thanks Paul! That's what I was thinking, I just didn't know and didn't want to wreck a $87.00 switch!

Mike

Yes you can drill a tiny hole on the throwbar to accept the springwire . Switches shown are Ross.

First,center your switch points by placing a cue tip or similar spacer each side of the switch points, photo  (1). Then be certain your track switch topside is positioned at its final location..  Next you will drill your bar centered over where you drill a hole (slot) thru the layout base for the Tortoise springwire movement sideways {up thru the layout base} which throws the switch.

These are old poor fuzzy photos but look carefully and you will see nails inserted each end of the throwbar. Those are simply to mark via the nail  holes below for alignment of the Tortoise motor along the throwbar movement  line underneath. You can see in the photo (3) below of Tortoise underneath that the motor was realigned to the throwbar's alignment nailholes after missing the mark by guessing.  In photo (2)  one long springwire is vertical and the other is leaning. The one leaning indicates that the Tortoise needs adjustment to the red mark shown in photo (3) underneath.

The importance of centering your switch points prior to mounting the Tortoise is to ensure that the points "make" snug against the rails when thrown either direction. I place a dab of double-stik tape on the motor to mount it and to get everything shaped up. Only then will I install screws. 

Photo (5) shows Tortoise prepped for install. Note that the spingwire carrier (fulgrum?) is centered and slightly bent as noted in the instructions. I moved the carrier to the center by applying 12VDC from the wall wart that powers all 17 of my track switches.

Hope this helps.

Dewey, what great information! Thank you so much. One question though, you don't drill the center of the throw bar? On each end of ScaleTrax switch throw bars are little magnets, so I was going to drill between the points! What are your thought on that?

Mike

Folks showed for Dinner earlier tonight so I missed your last post. I am not at all familiar with your track switches (Scale Track?) so hesitate to give you bad advice regarding drilling "between the points".  Perhaps St. Paul or someone who knows those switches can advise.

I have a predrilled springwire hole near the end of my throwbar located between the two long mounting ties which will also serve as mounting for Switchstand Lights activated mechanically by the throwbar movement (to show red or green).

I use tortise switch machines on my scale trax switches. Ive even had to make new throw bars. using styrene. Cause I broke the throw bars in my track upgrades.

Rick, might you have some pictures of your track with the tortoise switches installed?

Yes I do I Made styrene strips a little to long I Will cut them shorter. When I start to put the n scenery Hope this helps.

Hi Rick, helps a lot, just one question, did you try to use the original throw bar first?

Rick

Very nice repair/modification of the throwbar. Leave enough bar length for a second small hole to receive a horizontal wire connector for mechanically activating Switchstand Lights mounted on two extended ties. --if you go that route?  When the bar moves the points to mainline it also mechanically pulls/turns the light to Green and vice versa to Red. I don't have a photo that i can find. Lights are powered by a low VDC wallwart.

Mike,  Looks to me from the photos, like you have just enough room to drill your hole for the Tortoise spring wire on one side of the center rail, or the other...     

You only need to drill a hole that is 0028 to 0.030 for the wire, which is 0.025".  I would push the throw bar to one side of the other, hold a shirt pin just contacting the throw bar on one side of the Center Rail.   Then move the throw bar back and forth without moving the straight pin...  Looks like if you stay about 1/32" away from the center rail you will still have enough clearance for the throw bar to move in both directions without the center hot rail coming into play.    The point of the pin should stay put without applying too much pressure so that you can see how the "geometry works"..     Note I don't have these switches, but I would be tempted to try and drill the clearance hole "between the points" before completely changing out the throw bar.   

If your points are held to the factory throw bar with screws, you could also think about putting in a longer #2 x 56 screw on one point, then thread a piece of brass or plastic tubing over the extended screw on the bottom side which would give you a "tube" or "sleeve" to slide your tortoise spring wire into...  Just a thought. 

Thanks Chris, I will try and play with that idea this weekend. I am also going to try my hand a doing a cast resin pour for my brick wall, I have all the stuff and really want to give it a try as its all new to me. But the book says it sets up with in an hour ready for the layout minus the paint of course! 

Cant go any worse then the Hydrocal test from last night! lol

Mike,  just make  sure to read the instructions closely on the resin,  I haven't used it personally, but there may be some specific directions about a recommended "mold release"  you need to spray or brush on the mold before pouring in the resin.   Wouldn't want to damage the mold on the first pour. 

I have 13 Scaletrax switches on my layout all controlled by tortoise motors.   I used the existing rectangular hole in the bottom of the throwbar. There are actually 2 of them just to the left and right of center as seen in attached photos. The rails are held snug in either position and will snap back into place if pulled away and let go.  Cars do not derail if switch is in wrong position.  I used the stock wire that came with the tortoise motors.  

In the photos this is the only switch I did not use the factory wire on but that is due to it being 4" above the layout base.

Chris, I fallowed them to a tee, they say to put patroluim jelly , then spray paint the inside. we will see its drying now.

Rob, that is so cool of you to share, just the information I was looking for! Thank you so much!

Mike. yes i did.

Dewey Trogdon . I use Mth dwarf signals I either have the tortise switch control it and i glue a magnet to the styrene and use that system that comes with the dwarf signal

chris a posted:

Mike,  just make  sure to read the instructions closely on the resin,  I haven't used it personally, but there may be some specific directions about a recommended "mold release"  you need to spray or brush on the mold before pouring in the resin.   Wouldn't want to damage the mold on the first pour. 

Chris, in case you missed it, here is how it turned out!

Mike  Looks great, congratulations, first of many more successful casting projects !!!!   Make sure to clean it thoroughly before you start trying to paint and weather it.   Wonderful job.   Whose resin are you using ?

Thanks Chris I will have to look tomorrow when I go back out. But I did get 4 done today and am still waiting on the one I did this morning with Hydrocal. How do you clean them, cause the manufacture says they are ready for paint once they dry?

I like your ability to modify and fix effectively Rick---a good skill to have for model railroading.