Mullett River Kits

I have just started my first one also. I started painting the interior without sealer. The wood is dense not like basswood. May be a good idea using sealer in the area where you plan to apply decals. I am still a ways from that decision. The frame will take a while. Do you have a rivet tool?

Pete

I put sealer on all surfaces of my MR caboose.  It came as a Southern caboose but I redid a bit of it (mainly steps) to make it into an ACL caboose:

From what I've read you apply sealer to both sides to keep it from warping.

I normally sand and seal so it looks like I should do this one too.  Both sides should insure against warping especially seeing the walls are 3 layers not one piece.  I have a Southern, NKP and several others.  I was talking with the found about doing the VGN kit but he got sick before he could get it done.  

I don't have a rivet tool.  Is that needed or an option that really adds to the model?

I am doing a NYC caboose and the brass frame calls for at least a few hundred rivets. Other prototypes maybe not needed. It would be indicated in the directions. Mine came dimpled for the rivet locations.

Pete

A partially assembled cab. I used a light, golden oak, Miniwax, wood stain for the interior.  Exterior painted with Polyscale 414242 E/L maroon.  Old use-able bottle I had on the shelf.   All paint done with the brush pictured. 

@Norton posted:

I am doing a NYC caboose and the brass frame calls for at least a few hundred rivets. Other prototypes maybe not needed. It would be indicated in the directions. Mine came dimpled for the rivet locations.

Pete

Rivet detail done with a NWSL, Northwest Short Line, "Sensi-Press" , the calibration table " The Riveter" , and one added clamp piece that I fabricated.  Link to these pictures.  

I have the same tool but found it easier to remove the table for this project making it easier to find the dimples.

Pete

I have a Mullett caboose but I am not a solderer. It was frustrating. I epoxied it second best, however.

Dick

I built a Burlington side door Mullet, and have a Southern side door to build, which l am in no hurry to start, but would want to know of any other side door or drover caboose offered by Mullet.

Sanding sealer is cheap, and good insurance that the finished product will be perfect. Most kits don't really need it, but when one does, and you don't do it...

@Bob Delbridge posted:

I put sealer on all surfaces of my MR caboose.  It came as a Southern caboose but I redid a bit of it (mainly steps) to make it into an ACL caboose:

From what I've read you apply sealer to both sides to keep it from warping.

Agreed with sealing both inside and out.

Dick

And the edges!!

The double/triple laminate walls, associated with the assembly of these models, and the intricate brass sub-structure eliminates warping. IMO.  Each wall section has an inside, outside, and middle wall filler, with enough space for a window to slide, Up/down. 

You got to admire the precise detail of these models.  I have yet to find something that did not fit as it was suppose to.   Even a flat sheet attached to bowed roof rafters came out well.

The fragile cupola once assembled, fit well. 

Add the roof panels, no clamps or adhesive applied. Not sure about completely glue-ing the model together. 

I substitute scribed styrene for the wood sides and ends. In my opinion wood does not scale- it looks too rough for the typically smooth finishes of the era.