My PW Lionel F3 Rebuild

If you pull the wheels, how are you going to get them back on straight and square?

IMHO, unless you have the tools to both remove and remount the wheels, I would not remove them unless you have a real need.

Rust-Oleum to prevent rust? - I'd suggest just using a light coat of metal protectant. I like CRC -26

I've never had much luck the time or two I've used a (Lionel) wheel puller, esp. on old stuff. Doesn't take much before the flanges either on the wheels or puller bend and/or break.

Wrap the truck in a towel, place it between your knees, and knock the axle out with a hammer and punch. To get a wheel on, use a bench top vice, use a towel or the like.

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Wrap the truck in a towel, place it between your knees, and knock the axle out with a hammer and punch. To get a wheel on, use a bench top vice, use a towel or the like.

Some Lionel axle bearing are not flanged. (The truck pictured many not even have bearings). If the truck has unflanged bearing, using a punch as described above may push the bearing in, allowing the wheel to run against the chassis (or truck block). Not a big deal, just be certain to check before re-assembly.

How square can you get your wheels using a vice? I was never happy with the way mine turned out. That was a big part of the reason I purchased an arbor press.

 In order to properly paint the Santa Fe warbonnet, I would either have to find the masks (I believe there were 3 or 4) or pay someone to repaint the shells.

If you are going to restore them, send them to LEN CARPARELLI- you will NOT be sorry.

http://www.llmodeltrain.com/

The shells will take some time to do so I would contact him and do your research. When you send out the shells, you can continue with the frame and motor restoration.

I did come across WBB F3 shells. Does anyone know if they are a direct replacement for the PW Lionel shells?

NO they will not due to the attachment of the shells to the frame. WBB is a different ball game unless you are willing to modify the Lionel frames to fit the WBB's shells.

I don't think the trucks pictured are that bad. Let them soak in WD-40 or another agent while you work on the rest of your project. Seems you have several weeks at least ahead of you. Then clean them up with a Dremel. Get an assortment of different shaped Dremel brushes so you can reach down deep in the axle wells and clean the best you can. They are never going to be pretty.

If they were mine I would devote an hour and then put them back in service. Since you have time you can extend the soaking process.

I've done quite a few rifle rebuilds and for rust removal I still go back to a penetrating oil and brass brushes and scrapers.  Kano Labs Kroil is one of my go-to products.  I use a Dremel, too, with brass brushes, or stainless for the heavy stuff.

I've never had good luck with Naval Jelly.  And it removes bluing.

Good luck.  I'm glad you're motor still has life!

I stopped using brass brushes because I found that they imparted a brass color to the parts. I assume that some of the brass was depositing on the part being cleaned.

I guess I was doing something wrong?

I am very close to you in Delaware. If you go the route of pulling the wheels I have the press and tools. I have glass beaded trucks to remove ugliness after wheels and axles have been removed. For me I enjoy restoring neglected units to their former glory Regardless of time invested.

Could you elaborate on the modifications needed?

As I understand the product, it inhibits new rust from forming. The can recommends a primer layer, so I'll look at other options such as the one you suggested.

Stew, I may be calling upon you in a week, lol. I'm going to see what I can clean up without removing the wheels, but a few of the axels are deep and I don't know how deep my dremel will reach.

I gave the trucks a naval jelly bath. I got a large amount of corrosion and rust knocked off the trucks. I used a toothbrush to apply the naval jelly. After giving the naval jelly 10 minutes, I rinsed the trucks in water one at a time and used a blow dryer to get them completely dry. There was a white substance left behind. Maybe left over naval jelly. I am using a dremel and a toothbrush to remove it. Here's a picture:

Any spots that didn't get cleaned I'll go after with oil now.

I use them mostly for cleaning the rails on 022 and 711 switches. I find the brass color disappears after a short time. The brass brushes do a nice job on roller pick ups and sintered wheels too without giving them that overly polished look.