My RMT BEEFs have arrived!

If it came in a RMT box then it is a RMT product.

I got a Beef B unit yesterday at Nassau and it was in a RMT box. The RMT boxed items are older production items and do fall under the warranty cards (although it remains to see whether ANY RMT items even those purchased directly from them under warranty would be covered now going forward).

 The Ogauge Reproduction boxes are different they look like old K-line and those engines and cars are not covered by RMT. 

The Beefs were bought by Emery Dist. and sold to us. They have a factory warrt. according to Josh Emery. The O-Line is covered by us for 6 months. 

What about the window, Charlie. Is it correct without or missing?

Ted

Both units should have windows. They may of fell inside. Just take off the top and snap back into place Ted.

Charlienassau posted:

Both units should have windows. They may of fell inside. Just take off the top and snap back into place Ted.

I did try that Charlie and there is no window inside the shell, inside the box or inside the clam-shell package...

Ted

Ok, Ted let me open one up and check, if thats the case I will send you a replacement window. Charlie...

Congrats on your new Beefs.  I received my new B&O Beefs this week from Nassau.  My A units were fine, but the B unit was damaged and needs to go back.  Nassau is taking care of it for me.

Charlienassau posted:

Ok, Ted let me open one up and check, if thats the case I will send you a replacement window. Charlie...

 

 

Thanks Charlie.

OK, interesting BEEF problem. Can anyone educate me...

Last night I set up a simple O-27 3' X 5' oval to test these little gems out on. They work great, fast, headlight, horn etc.. The problem is that they will not go into neutral or reverse.

Transformer (don't laugh) CW-80
Track O-27 

Forward is fine and light is flicker free so I assume that the track connections are good?
Zero reverse or neutral with the A, AA, AB or ABA?

If I mash the direction button, the loco dies and lights go out. It then starts up in forward again and the ramp up seems to work.

My Lionel 3548 (Wisconsin Central set) neutrals/reverses just fine on same track, same transformer.

If I do the test on the box where I turn on the transformer and lift the loco while in forward and immediately set it back on the track, it does indeed reverse...? This tells me the loco is working, correct? 

So if the loco works and the transformer works with a Lionel loco and the track works with no dead spots, what the heck am I doing wrong lol?

Ted

027Ted posted:

OK, interesting BEEF problem. Can anyone educate me...

............................

Forward is fine and light is flicker free so I assume that the track connections are good?
Zero reverse or neutral with the A, AA, AB or ABA?

If I mash the direction button, the loco dies and lights go out. It then starts up in forward again and the ramp up seems to work.

..........................................

So if the loco works and the transformer works with a Lionel loco and the track works with no dead spots, what the heck am I doing wrong lol?

Ted

 

I experienced something similar when initially testing mine on a Z4000 at the store where I purchased it.  I didn't spend a lot of time with it then, but both A and B behaved the same, so I assumed maybe I just needed to drop the voltage longer or something (didn't believe they were defective, I also wondered if maybe the switch on the bottom was in the wrong position)

I tried them at home on my ZW-L last night (same switch setting) and they cycle fine as expected.  I did not bring out the Z4K to try to reproduce my experience at the store.  I don't think I have a CW-80 handy at home at the moment, or I'd volunteer to try that to see if I got the same results.

-Dave

tHERE IS AN ON-OFF switch underneath both powered units that turns the e-units on or off.  Since you're only getting forward move the switches to the other position.

coach joe posted:

tHERE IS AN ON-OFF switch underneath both powered units that turns the e-units on or off.  Since you're only getting forward move the switches to the other position.

I followed the box directions to the letter and the switches have been set and unset various times. As stated above, I do get reverse using the pull it off the track method so the switches have to be correct?

Ted

I  see the box states "RMT by aristo craft" that company no longer exists.

so to calling the RMT would be incorrect. after seeing the boxes I can understand why Walter of rmt has not made any comments, as I remember what was said when aristo craft closed.

here is a thread about it;

https://ogrforum.com/t...ose-its-doors?page=1

027Ted posted:

coach joe posted:

tHERE IS AN ON-OFF switch underneath both powered units that turns the e-units on or off.  Since you're only getting forward move the switches to the other position.

I followed the box directions to the letter and the switches have been set and unset various times. As stated above, I do get reverse using the pull it off the track method so the switches have to be correct?

Ted

Ted,

This is an odd one if you've never seen it before.   With some e units, the CW80 doesn't actually go all the way to zero when the handle is down.   This happens with the K-Line Girls Train from many years ago.

You need to have another load on the circuit, such as a lighted switch or an accessory or something, then your e-unit will cycle just fine.  There was a write up that I added to here maybe around 2004 

In in other words, without anything else on the CW80 drawing current, at "zero" it is still proving just enough voltage to the track to not cycle the e-unit, even if the loco looks off (no lights on, etc..).

With the K-Line Girl's Train I got for my daughter, once I had other things tapping off the CW80, track voltage did in fact go all the way to zero with the handle down, and the e unit cycled as expected.

As an aside, I still use that same CW80 today..it works fine.

Hope this helps

I wonder if there might be residual power coming from your cw-80 when pressing the button, and this is a more sensitive engine than your others. Try setting the throttle position to off and cycling it that way. Also try unplugging the transformer to try to cycle the engine that way. 

Tom, see my reply above... the CW80 does put out just enough voltage when handle in "off" position to prevent some e-units from cycling.

THANK YOU EVERYONE!

I will try to add a 'voltage killer' when I can get out of the dingin office today! I will let you know.

Thanks for the details David.

EscapeRocks posted:

Tom, see my reply above... the CW80 does put out just enough voltage when handle in "off" position to prevent some e-units from cycling.

I think you posted while I was writing my post. I think we're on the right track.

Tom M posted:

EscapeRocks posted:

Tom, see my reply above... the CW80 does put out just enough voltage when handle in "off" position to prevent some e-units from cycling.

I think you posted while I was writing my post. I think we're on the right track.

Oh yeah. I can reproduce the "problem" all day if I just setup a loop with nothing else and run the old K-line I talk about.

Thank you, David!

I did not have a load using device handy in the basement but I did have a load removing device lol. I am in the middle of a basement remodel and spied a box of light switches in the corner... 'nuff said. I wired in a switch and viola! the train works just like it should. 

Set the transformer and the train goes forward, click the switch off on and now in neutral then off on and into reverse!

Thanks again!

Ted

Ted, glad you found a solution for now.    I simply used a lighted lock-on attached to K-Line Super Snap track in this case on the old layout.

I have not heard much about the missing window but I am attributing that to the season. I suggest patience... It sure is hard sometimes.

Ted

Ted I'm glad all is working well.  i had picked up an Alaska RR and a NYC Beef "B" and tested them with a Z-750 and both cycled well.  I had gotten an Alaska "A-A" set from mail oreder the day beforeand tested them all the same night and all worked with the Z-750.

That's great to hear Joe. It's always cool when they do what they are supposed to right outta the box.

I really like the BEEFs but am a little unimpressed with their traction, or lack thereof... I have about a 2% grade on the front stretch of my test track and she will start slipping if I don't come into it with some speed. I am running ABA with two Menards boxcar and one loaded flat. Plenty of uuumph no grip.

Ted

56f100 posted:

jstraw124 posted:

Congrats on your new Beefs.  I received my new B&O Beefs this week from Nassau.  My A units were fine, but the B unit was damaged and needs to go back.  Nassau is taking care of it for me.

I just received my RMT Beef B units from Nassau Hobby today.  The PRR Beef B-unit look fine, but the B & O Beef B-unit had a broken coupler mount.  I called Nassau and they said send it back, which I did just this evening via USPS priority mail.  Nassau said they would either try to fix it or credit it back to my card.  Hoping for the best.

My B&O B unit had both coupler mounts broken.  I called last week to report it and will follow up tomorrow to see what options I have.

So Charlie, I have not heard from you regarding the missing window on my A unit BEEF? 

Ted

Ted, I have not forgotten about you! We have been slammed but I will get one of my repairmen to take one out for you and send it. I will also include a "Freebie gift" for waiting! 

ooooh Freebie gifts are a favorite!

I figured that was the case Charlie (see my post a few days back...). All is good!

Every cowboy knows you don't leave a new calf layin' in the snow... lol

Thanks,

Ted

Unless the calf is too weak to pull it's own weight.  Should have bought the cow.

Ted, your window and a Gift is on the way to you! Happy New Year!