My Shelf Layout Plan...

Excellent space usage. I fully understand your not wanting to build mountains etc. That's great for those want to, and those folks do incredible work, but my interest is in setting up a layout using "ready to go" items from the prewar era. You know, shorter tunnels, stand alone stations, that sort of thing. I can place the pieces wherever I like to keep things fresh, and I have a ton of fun. Maybe this is how you have been setting up your Christmas layouts? Maybe you can extend your Christmas layout philosophy of layouts to your new space?. Just an idea......

Prewar-thanks for your thoughts! I too was thinking about making my 'permanent' layout just like my Christmas layouts but decided against it. My Christmas layouts are "just-for-fun" and all buildings and people are from Lemax, Department 56, and Wal-Mart and are obviously not to scale-perfectly fine for Christmas, but I do want my basement layout to look real.

 

I just don't want to build a lot of mountains. But I do want some buildings I can weather and I have an idea for a small campground I'd like to build in the corner.

 

FYI-I don't know if thers do this, but I'm going to build my layout in modular form. My plan is to make small 'tables' about 2' x 6' and connect them together, and then mount them to the wall like a shelf. All wires that go between the modular tables will have connectors on them so I can disconnect them. My thinking is that I only plan to be in this house for a few more years.

 

So once I move, I'll be able to disconnect the modular units, take them down from the wall, and then just fill in a few holes in the walls where the screws were.

 

I'm looking forward to getting started!

 

 

Not a thing wrong with what you have there. You may want to consider a double track main (second loop) with some crossovers between the outer and inner, and/or a few more ladders in your yard. A little more complexity in that respect will offer more interesting operation, but again your plan is fine as it is.

 

You have ample space for scenery, and a good background will do wonders for making "Less" look like "More".

 

Simon

Sounds like you know the exact direction you are wanting to take your layout, which is great. No doubt with your planning skills you will be happy with the end result. Please keep us posted with progress info and pics, I really enjoy seeing how a layout evolves.

Depending on the type of trains you want to run, I would double-check the radius of your curves in the corners. They look a little tight, like 031 or 036. From what I've seen some of those nice $1300 steam engines that you mention require 054 or wider turns.

The picture I posted above is my layout designed with Ross track. If I remember correctly the curves are mostly O-42 with the inside one O-36.

 

When I re-did the layout using Atlas track, the minimum curve is O-45 and the outside one in the top right corner is O-54. Those will work for any locomotive I own.

 

Here;s the same layout with the Atlas track...

 

 

I did think about making the large loop a double loop, but one will work for me. It's not shown on the drawing, but three of the walls have doors that I will have to make a removeable section (or a flip-up bridge) for. It's just going to be easier, smaller, and lighter with one track.

 

I would, however, like to add another track to the yard. But that would mean making the layout larger which kind of goes against my design goals. I'll have to see once I get the Atlas track and the benchwork-the plan could change slightly.

Oh, by the way, if you guys have a few minutes, I have two videos posted on my YouTube channel of my 2011 and 2012 Christmas layouts! Here's the link...

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/s10sakota

TRY A DOUBLE TRACK MAINLINE. EAST AND WEST BOUND TRAINS WILL ADD TO YOUR OPERATING PLEASURE. NICE YARD DESIGN

Install the largest curves you can manage, you never know what you might want to run in the future.

Oh, by the way, if you guys have a few minutes, I have two videos posted on my YouTube channel of my 2011 and 2012 Christmas layouts! Here's the link...

 

Wow,  inside train looks extremely fast,  !,  I am contemplating doing a larger style

Christmas, design as well,  ( dept 56 for us),  thinking might have to start around

September--- How long did you take on the 2012 , run !!!

thanks

Terry-I know haha! I think I was paying more attention to the camera and trying to get some cool video. I just turned the trains on and started filming. My brother noticed how fast the train was going too. Not very scale!

 

 

I've been thinking about adding a second track as others have mentioned. On this design, I've added that second loop as well as one more track in the yard. Any thoughts on the design?

 

I think that second loop will make things a lot more interesting. You can have trains passing in opposite directions.

 

Be careful your yard is not TOO WIDE to reach across. Maybe remove that one innermost yard leg and put it over on the right side.

 

Maybe a double slip switch between that long double main at left.

 

Simon

Simon, right now with the five tracks the yard is only 27" wide. But I'm not sure how accurately AnyRail models the track! So, once I buy the track, the table size could change slightly.

 

What is a "double slip switch"?

Double Slip Switch:

 

http://columbusrailroads.com/pom-feb2007.htm

 

"A double slip switch allowed  a train on either of two tracks to cross over to the other track no matter which direction it was coming."

Your and My ideas on scenery are quite similar: Keep it minimal.

There was a Gentleman on this Forum named Ed Reutling whose layout personified this idea. It was narrow, but nicely scenicked in that the structures did not over-power everything. His layout was basically flat, but gave the illusion of changes in grade by scenery that went below or above table top.

The other thing that will help give the illusion of much more space than what actually exists is a good background.

Simon

I do plan on using some kind of background. I'd like to have one wall by the yard as a city background, and the other wall as a moutainous background.

 

I don't think I will go with the double slip switch. I'm already at $900 just in regular switches! This doesn't include the cost of the rest of the track!

Simon... Adding the second main line will add a lot to your layout, more action, more color, more smoke...

The only problem that I noticed is that your yard lead is now the second main line.  It will be much more difficult to classify cars in the yard with the second mainline in use.

Also, the crossover? from the outside to the inside runs the same direction in both instances.  Perhaps you could "flip" the crossover? that you added on the shelf on the right of the plan.

 

I don't think you have any shelf too wide.  30 inches is the recommended maximum for reaching to the farthest track.  If you add a step stool, you might be able to get an extra 6 inches for a 36 inch shelf.  I would recommend mocking this up to try it out, though.  You might move the crossover? that you have from the outside main to the inside main over to the shelf on the left.  By doing this, the outside main on the widest shelf will be without turnouts, and thereby, less likely to cause a problem necessitating reaching across the layout.

SteveF-maybe you see something I'm missing. Imagine the train on the outside track running counter-clockwise and the inside train running clockwise. As the switches are now, the outside train can get to the inside track and back out, and the inside train can go to the outside and back to the inside. Right?

 

Also, my goal is to keep all of the shelves as small as possible. That was my main reason for only having one main line. But I do like the two mains better. As for the main shelf with the large yard, I originally didn't want that any more than 24" but I'm OK with going to 27" or 28" to fit the other main. I definitely don't want it 36"!

 

Good eye, you are absolutely right.  I flipped that switch in my flea bitten former Navy mind.  I'd like to blame my glasses, but I know I won't be able to get away with that.  Thanks for picking it up before I confused Simon.  <Big Smile>

Something else I've been thinking about-what's your thoughts on the switches in the red circles? Do I even need them? Why would I use them? I think I added them because I saw other yards that had switches like this.

 

I don't blame you for wanting to keep the shelves as narrow as possible.  That said, I really think that you should give some thought to having a yard lead that does not foul the main.  I know that roundy-round layout designs are traditional in 3-Rail 0 Gauge, but a locomotive chasing its caboose gets old after a while.  Far too many layouts have been abandoned because there was nothing for the trains to do, they just ran in circles.  If you have to choose between running a train on the inside loop and shunting cars in the yard, which are you going to choose?  If you choose to shunt cars and only use the outside loop, why bother with the inside loop?

 

Give it some thought.  It is easy to change things, now, before the first stick is cut.

 

Keep us posted on you progress.

SteveF-I guess I'm not sure how to change it. I'm new to terms, but are you refering to a yard lead? EDIT: oops-you answered this!

 

Originally I was just going to have the two shelf's on the two walls and just have a switching yard. Then I thought of adding the other two walls so I could have the train go all the way around and actually see it run.

 

As it is now, I'm thinking the way I would probably use this layout is to have the one train going around the outside loop while I'm moving trains around on the inside loop to and from the yard. Then, if I want to get lazy and just sit back and watch the trains run, I could just let the two trains go on the loops.

 

I think what you're suggesting is to make it so i can have two trains running, while I have a third driving around the yard?

Well, it depends... and no, I am not a lawyer. 

Counting from the top, you have:  Main 1, Main e, Arrival/Departure track, then classification track 1 and classification track 2. 

 

As the train enters the yard from either direction, it stops on the arrival/departure track.  The locomotive is taken off and sent to the barn, and the train is then broken down and the cars moved to the classification track for reassembly in other trains.  A train is made up in reverse order.  Cars are pulled off the classification tracks in an order that makes sense for delivery, assembled on the Arrival/Departure track, a locomotive is added to the head end, a caboose on the rear (pre 1985) and the train then departs.

 

I think that you could remove the switches circled in red on the right, as they are really redundant.  If this were my layout, I wold move the cross over to the shelf on the left, freeing up some room to move to the left the switches circled in red on the left, gaining as much arrival/departure track as possible.

 

Just my 2¢.  Your milage may vary... 

Yeah, that is what I thought you had in mind.

If I did it like this I could have the two trains running and the one engine in the yard moving around. But, I'm not sure I like it. I may be OK with the way it was. I guess designing it is the fun part, right??

 

The biggest problem is that there is no easy way to enter or leave the yard.

Everyone's feedback has been really helpful-thanks guys! It's a good thing I don't drive trains for a living since I have no idea how they are 'suppose' to work!

 

Here's my latest revision that I think I really like. I'll explain how I envision using this layout (so your feedback is welcome!)

 

Here you see the train on the right side. It has been running clockwise and is now stopped. The plan is to back it up into the yard. I can put the train cars on any of the three yard tracks in the 'north' yard. The black rectangles on the upper left are my steam engine and tender. Even if I park the cars on the same yard track, I can still get the steam engine out if I want it.

 

If I put some cars on the middle yard rail, my two red Indiana railroad GP-38's (which I plan to buy) will be trapped. But, I could add another two switches (for $160) and put them on the second and third yard line so I could get them out. Or, maybe even more fun would be to move around to the other yard the train cars that are in front of the red GP-38's if I want to run those engines!

 

S10

Looks much better with the second line. you'll enjoy twice the action.

OK...moving along-I've settled on this design, and now it's time to get started!

 

I may have mentioned in an earlier post that I want to make this layout modular. I only plan on being in this house for a few more years so I want to be able to take this layout with me when I move. This brings me to another "How-To" question.

 

If you look at the light grey rectangles under the track, that is my benchwork. The idea is to make it in sections so I can unscrew it from the wall and take it with me. But of course I don't want to pull up track that will have roadbed around it.

 

 

Unless you guys know of a better (or smarter) way, my plan is to lay out the track, and then slice it right at the seems where the tables meet. Then I would just have a jumper wire going under the benchwork for each rail section. If I put a connector on each wire, then I can just disconnect each section from each other.

 

As you can see, I've sized the benchwork so that there's no seems under switches. So is this a good way to go about this? Once I slice the track, I can butt them up right next to each other and screw them down and the train should never 'know' the track is cut, right?

 

Thank for your feedback/suggestions! 

 

 

I like your plan. It looks like it'll be some fun to operate.

As for track and module construction... Might I suggest a bridge piece of track crossing the seams. That is a short piece of track that crosses the module seam. Many module groups use this technique for traveling layouts.

I am planning on constructing a "permanent" layout in modules as well and will be using bridge tracks. Pretty easy to setup on straights. A little harder to do on curves.

An advantage with bridge tracks is it is easier to align and push the tracks together when reconstructing.

How does the bridge track work? I tried googling it and can't find much. It seems to me that with a section of bridge track, I would have to make two cuts instead of one-and then have to align the bridge piece on both ends.

 

See the pic below-the red line on the top left would be my one cut right along the table seem. If I made a bridge section, wouldn't it look like the two lines on the top right? And then how do I remove the bridge section? Or is there no roadbed on that piece?

 

Mark,

 

Those switches that you had circled, the ones you are questioning the need of, I'm sure that you saw those in real yard makeups.  WHY?  Because they are used in what is called 'run around' situations.  Yours look a bit close together to be useful in a run around situation though.

 

For swapping cars and other yard type activities, run around tracks makes things considerably simpler.

 

Uncle Walt!!!!! (hope you're OK with me saying this!)

Guys: Mark is my nephew and I'm the nut he said removes all his living room furniture to make room for a Christmas layout.

 

Mark is many talented, believe me:

* Very, very artistic.

* Very, very atuned to detail.

* Very, very much a perfectionist.

* Very, very creative and imaginative.

* Handy with tools and woodworking.

 

As you tell by the Youtube videos that he posted!!!

 

- walt

Good plan. Why not use 072 for outer curves and either 060 or flex track to build inner curves. Gives you better options with engines and rolling stock.

Thanks for the good words Walt!

 

Suzukovick-I'd like to have the widest curves possible but I have to draw the line somewhere! The larger the curve radious the farther from the wall the track will be. I want the shelf size as small as possible.

That makes sense. I have the same issue as I am using my bonus room and its dual use. I am running 072 curves now with one curve mixed 084/072. I plan on lifting it 12in off the floor and replace the fast track with Gargraves, My yard currently has seven sidings. 4 in one direction ( passenger trains). Three in the opposite direction(freight). My is problem is with the 3 ft opening into the room right off the stairs. The section has to be modular.

 

Step one is done!

 

 

Now I ran into another issue. My plan was to have a nice white shelf along the two walls that would match my nice new white baseboard. I envisioned it looking really nice.

 

But I rolled the two train cars you see in the picture above along the short length of track and it was so loud I almost needed ear plugs!!

 

So now I'm thinking I am going to need some kind of roadbed under the track which is going to take away from the sharp white clean looks of the shelf.

 

What might you guys suggest I do to deaden the sound??

Good morning 

I would recomend using cork for the road bed or some kind of carpeting. 

Doug