My friend 1218 bought his Big Boy over to run on my 072 max layout a few years ago. It took out a tunnel, some cars on a nearby shelf, and a metal thing over the track that I never knew what it did. But it used to look cool.
Here is a couple pictures of N&W 1211
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Interesting that a few As trickled out and then the mother load shipments came later. My dealer says after the first of the year. Glad some got there’s before Christmas! I’m actually glad mine are coming later. It will help out my wallet. 😎
Paid for mine but it hasn't shipped yet - all these wonderful photos are making me want to buy a second! 
So the only real issue seems to be the number board on the headlight area over here?
I don't remember if that is the exact topic name, so I guessed from my phone. That is the link to that topic though about the number board being something different than 1238.
The back of the Polar Express Observation Car/Train was not hit. I was the faulty engineer enjoying a first run. I forgot my friend had both trains on the same track.
Collisions were always the fun when several friends ran trains. If you are worried about it, don’t run that engine.
1218 was always the switch guy, kept us on our toes…
Picked up my 1218 this afternoon. I'm quite impressed with it so far. The sounds, detailing, smoke effects, etc are all impressive as I would expect out of such a model. My checkbook is hurting but running and studying the locomotive has definitely helped ease that pain a bit. It's got the feline stamp of approval as well... 
The O-72 minimum curve is definitely a necessity as certain detail parts nearly bottom out even on that diameter curvature. I've noted that mine does not like making left hand turns on O-72 curves as the fireman's side forward running board step comes into contact with the back side of the headlight and pilot handrail. I assume they're all this way simply based on the attention to detail without cutting corners to make it work. The right hand running board isn't as long so it isn't an issue when going around a right hand turn. Obviously larger than O-72 curves would be best for this, I simply don't have room for them in my current living arrangement.
A bit of a "walk around" tour in photos. Excuse the makeshift apartment dining table photo studio and so-so iPhone photo quality 
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WoW! Thanks for sharing. The walk around is very impressive. I especially love the shot with the Giant Kitty! 😎 The 611 shot is also pretty special. 😍 I’m guessing that’s the J that came with the set??? The Tuscan color looks correct. 👍🏻
I didn't think I would care for the shiny paint, but from the pictures, I think it's really strikingly beautiful!
It’s all quite subjective of course depending on what you like. Not a fan of shiny black on an engine myself, looks too early-Williams somehow. But its a great looking model in many respects and the cab details are really well done! Enjoy. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Rod
@Rod Stewart posted:It’s all quite subjective of course depending on what you like. Not a fan of shiny black on an engine myself, looks too early-Williams somehow.
Rod
But it did happen: https://www.flickr.com/photos/hunter1828/8338953178
On a side note. While too much for my budget,and layout. These look great.
It's nice to see a non U.P. articulated from Lionel. IMO the A is much more asthetically appealing.
@RickO posted:But it did happen: https://www.flickr.com/photos/hunter1828/8338953178
Yah I knew that Rick. So it’s all good!
Rod
@N&W 1218 posted:WoW! Thanks for sharing. The walk around is very impressive. I especially love the shot with the Giant Kitty! 😎 The 611 shot is also pretty special. 😍 I’m guessing that’s the J that came with the set??? The Tuscan color looks correct. 👍🏻
Happy to share! I noticed that there were several videos out there since they've been getting delivered, but no real detailed still photos.
611 is the old TMCC model with some electronic upgrades. A very nice model itself.
Any more comments on the deck plate between the engine and tender. The original JLC Y6b had a deck plate that rested on the tender. Looked and functioned great. I’m not seeing that on the videos and still photos. Looks like the deck plate is fixed in 10 degree angle upward.
1. Why would it be fixed?
2. Why in an upward angle?
Still waiting on mine so any help would be appreciated!
You folks that got the glossy finish restoration A, ….are y’all happy with it?..
Pat
The deck plate seems to have limiting nubs cast into the hinge loops that rest against the cab. I wouldn't recommend bending a casting but a small amount of pressure in the case of mine was enough to get it to sit on the tender deck on level track. Obviously it still rises up a bit when under way on uneven track, but as close as the cab is to the tender on this one with the kinematic drawbar, I can't say I've noticed it when on the track running.
I like the gloss paint on mine. It definitely shows fingerprints as one would expect but they wipe off easily with a microfiber cloth. I'll probably consider putting a pair of nitrile gloves or something along the lines of that into the box for handling it in the future. My photos seem to exaggerate the texture of the paint with sort of an "orange peel" appearance, however in person I feel like it doesn't look quite so textured. I took it to the train club this evening and most people seemed to like it for being something different than we're used to. They weren't painted flat black in real life after all so they were shiny at least once before they got covered in soot and road grime. Obviously the excursion look of 1218 that Lionel wanted to portray would have generally been clean and shiny as well.
@SantaFe158 posted:The deck plate seems to have limiting nubs cast into the hinge loops that rest against the cab. I wouldn't recommend bending a casting but a small amount of pressure in the case of mine was enough to get it to sit on the tender deck on level track. Obviously it still rises up a bit when under way on uneven track, but as close as the cab is to the tender on this one with the kinematic drawbar, I can't say I've noticed it when on the track running.
I like the gloss paint on mine. It definitely shows fingerprints as one would expect but they wipe off easily with a microfiber cloth. I'll probably consider putting a pair of nitrile gloves or something along the lines of that into the box for handling it in the future. My photos seem to exaggerate the texture of the paint with sort of an "orange peel" appearance, however in person I feel like it doesn't look quite so textured. I took it to the train club this evening and most people seemed to like it for being something different than we're used to. They weren't painted flat black in real life after all so they were shiny at least once before they got covered in soot and road grime. Obviously the excursion look of 1218 that Lionel wanted to portray would have generally been clean and shiny as well.
Hmmm, ….very interesting,….as if you read my mind!…..I’ve been painting for over 35 years, and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……orange peel is orange peel, it’s either there, or it ain’t!….I’m very glad you’re happy with your new purchase, cause I’d be livid,……I am well aware of what a newly delivered, or restored locomotive is supposed to look like,…I’m just kinda surprised a multi million dollar manufacturer accepted that kind of finish on such a highly touted, & highly priced model,…..if you’re gonna lay down a gloss finish on a model, it’d better be slick as glass,…..gloss in scale is tough to do!…the slightest orange peel, and the message ain’t conveyed……they got to be slick like an eel,…..this is how it should be done…..the first represents as-delivered Mohawk in triple black lacquer, and the second is excursion J 611 done in gloss urethane to match high gloss Dupont Imron used on the J’s subsequent repaints in modern day …….again, I’m glad you’re glad, and thank you for posting the pictures, ……not knocking your model, it just doesn’t sit well with me, …..I’d be doing a re-shoot,….
Pat 
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@harmonyards posted:Hmmm, ….very interesting,….as if you read my mind!…..I’ve been painting for over 35 years, and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……orange peel is orange peel, it’s either there, or it ain’t!….I’m very glad you’re happy with your new purchase, cause I’d be livid,……I am well aware of what a newly delivered, or restored locomotive is supposed to look like,…I’m just kinda surprised a multi million dollar manufacturer accepted that kind of finish on such a highly touted, & highly priced model,…..if you’re gonna lay down a gloss finish on a model, it’d better be slick as glass,…..gloss in scale is tough to do!…the slightest orange peel, and the message ain’t conveyed……they got to be slick like an eel,…..this is how it should be done…..the first represents as-delivered Mohawk in triple black lacquer, and the second is excursion J 611 done in gloss urethane to match high gloss Dupont Imron used on the J’s subsequent repaints in modern day …….again, I’m glad you’re glad, and thank you for posting the pictures, ……not knocking your model, it just doesn’t sit well with me, …..I’d be doing a re-shoot,….
Pat
Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts. I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention. You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!
Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.
@harmonyards posted:.... and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……
Hah! You should know by now that if you want to see any defect in your workmanship, just post a photo of it online and it will stick out like a sore thumb! BTDT!
A few details that I find missing on this high end model that I would think should have been included is :
1.) The whistle cord. Actually it is not a cord at all but a metal rod that ran from the cab through the sandbox to the whistle.
2.) Curtains. Other Lionel offerings have them, why not this?
3.) The "Water Gauge" on the fireman's side of the tender.
Jim, when I was there in March the 1218 was on the track against the platform:
I brought my 1238 home yesterday:
This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’ sound.
The Kadee setup is pretty nice and easy though!
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@SantaFe158 posted:Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts. I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention. You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!
Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.
Oh I agree with you 100%, it’s about time the mfr.’s did some gloss models, ……if they did it a little wetter, and had their concoction a little thinner, they’d a nailed it,……but as I mentioned, if you guys are happy, then that’s all that matters,….what irks me is if I can get a slick finish in my one car paint booth, with just me & a gun, then to be sure a world class manufacturer should be able to blow my doors off, …..I mean, if they need a consulting service on how to get it right, I am available. I can’t speak of the things Big Jim says are wrong, the N&W really ain’t my cup of tea, only specific models that I’ve been contracted to build, but then I study up on them and get well versed,…..in the case of the J, it just so happens that locomotive frequents the NC Transportation museum, so I literally can go hang out with it for a while……I’m not knocking you, or your model Jake, they just could’ve done a better job,…..
Pat
@Norm Charbonneau posted:I brought my 1238 home yesterday:
This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’
I have the 1210 and notice the same repeating “crunch bang” when in reverse, with or without pushing a line of cars. While going forward I do not notice any hyperactivity. This is my first force coupler also.
Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.
Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.
@Norm Charbonneau you may want to go back a post or two and reload your video. It's been "spinning" for an hour. I for one would like to see it.
Eh, maybe I will get a quick YouTube up later.
@Norm Charbonneau posted:Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.
Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.
The issue hasn’t bothered me enough to investigate it at the workbench yet. I will eventually. Besides, I currently have a long line coal cars hooked to it. Going backwards is asking for trouble right now.
I am very pleased with the model. Every time I run it, I discover a new detail or feature.
@Norm Charbonneau posted:I brought my 1238 home yesterday:
Hey Norm, I’ve watched a bunch of your videos and subscribe to your YouTube channel. Is it just me or is this a rare sighting of an active smoke unit on your awesome layout? Looks fantastic. You should light ‘em up more often.
I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!
The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!
Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.
I agree with the lack of a mass-produced, O scale N&W caboose. Lionel & MTH never had a problem producing fantasy paint schemes on almost anything, they can do the same with a N&W caboose, if they want to guarantee enough sales. Lionel produced the B&O I-12 Wagon top caboose, in various paint schemes.
HOW CAN WE MAKE THIS HAPPEN?
@Norm Charbonneau posted:I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!
The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!
Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.
I have been asking Scott Mann about offering N&W hoppers in plastic, seeing as how awesome their battleship gondolas came out. Perhaps now is the time to petition? Although I have a lot of brass N&W hoppers, I share your interest in more proper N&W hoppers and cabooses.
Greg P
Now is the time.
Everyone may not agree, but personally, I'm satisfied with the Atlas, Lionel & MTH 2 bay fish belly type hoppers. IT'S A CABOOSE WE NEED. That will satisfy 3 Rail & 2 Rail.
@ironman1 posted:Everyone may not agree, but personally, I'm satisfied with the Atlas, Lionel & MTH 2 bay fish belly type hoppers. IT'S A CABOOSE WE NEED. That will satisfy 3 Rail & 2 Rail.
Atlas definitely makes some nice hoppers. I agree about the caboose offerings, someone needs to step up.
Mostly a repeat of my photos above, but there is some operating footage at the end of this brief video I put together yesterday. The caboose running at the end of the train is an MTH product from the early 2000s. It's the closest steam era appropriate N&W caboose I was able to dig up. I doubt it's a perfect match for any true prototype other than the paint scheme, but it serves the purpose until someone comes up with something better.
A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation. At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive. I haven't quite decided which way I like better yet.
I am interested in getting the N&W 2231510 but have one anal question about the 5 whistle sounds - once a sound is selected, does it persist even after the track is powered off????
Yes it will hold on that selection until you press the AUX 1 button again then the whistle.
Maybe we will get matching aux water tender and cabooses in the next Lionel catalog.
@Norm Charbonneau posted:Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.
The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!
@ironman1 posted:Everyone may not agree, but personally, I'm satisfied with the Atlas, Lionel & MTH 2 bay fish belly type hoppers. IT'S A CABOOSE WE NEED. That will satisfy 3 Rail & 2 Rail.
The non-peaked end fishbelly hoppers are fine, and I think are "prototypical enough" for certain classes of N&W hopper (I can't remember exactly which), but I would really love to see more of the peaked-end hoppers. Atlas is the only one I know of that has made them in 3 rail (and have found on the used market). More of these would be great, especially in plastic. Atlas' die-cast version is very hefty and feels great just to hold in your hand, but trying to pull a long string of them up a grade may not be possible depending on the grade and number of cars.
I repainted this Weaver 2 rail CG that was in the diesel scheme but I am not real happy with the way it came out. I may work on it some more but it’s real close to getting stripped and redone. I used an old Champ set of decals which were very thick and weren’t trying to stay on for me. Weaver did the CG and CF and they are hard to find. I doubt Lionel would tool one but you never know. Their N5 was pretty nice and unexpected.
They were cataloged in 2006, here’s the archived catalog:
https://www.yumpu.com/en/docum...atalog-weaver-models
I have a few of these Atlas hoppers which are good enough for now:
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laz1957, thanks a bunch for the info on the whistle selection; glad to hear it stays persistent.
Happy New Year,
RickM46
@0-Gauge CJ posted:The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!
I really doubt a newly tooled cabin car from the big L would be much cheaper.
The orange peel kind of looks prototypical of steam engine paint jobs.
Weaver brass CF/CGs are worth 200-300 bucks imo. They are very nicely made. Sunset made a nice 2 rail CG too, maybe early 80s? A proper scale N&W steam era caboose tooled to modern standards in ABS would be welcome right about now, tooled to the standards of Lionel’s nice I-12 (fetching north of $100 lately) or the nice PRR N5s.
Here’s the CF at Roanoke:
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So is the N5 all new tooling? That certainly is listed at a reasonable price, at $89.99.
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A few years back it was, yes. The cupola is diecast for some reason!
I think Lionel could make a nice N&W caboose if they really wanted to. They could paint it Sponge Bob later on too I wouldn’t care.
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@Norm Charbonneau posted:A few years back it was, yes. The cupola is diecast for some reason!
I think Lionel could make a nice N&W caboose if they really wanted to. They could paint it Sponge Bob later on too I wouldn’t care.
Man those are really nice looking as weathered!
Wasn't this cataloged in 2015? I assumed they were based on the earlier brass version they did years back.
I have the smoking version of the N5b they did and then an N5 that lacks the crash bars. I like them a lot.
Edit: turns out I got my cabin cars mixed up. Lionel did an N8 in brass in the 90s. Williams did the brass N5.
Hey Norm, I like your Sponge Bob suggestion. I’d even buy a Sponge Bob if that’s all they made…for $89.99. I’d just repaint it.😊 I’d definitely have to re-run my N&W caboose decals for sure though.
BTW, the Sunset CG caboose is ok, I have 2, it lacks the detail of the Weaver, mostly missing separately applied roof walks. It appears to be stamped as part of the roof.
Joe
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Did Sunset do the CH? Here’s one on brasstrains:
https://brasstrains.com/Classi...tom-1979-Run-Lhee-Do
Here’s a nice page showing some prototype photos:
I believe the Sunset caboose is a CH (not a CG as I mentioned in my earlier reply). I'm not sure if Sunset produced a CG. Both versions are very similar and the same design as the wood sided CF, except with steel sides & the CH has end windows.
Quick shot of my 1218 on the test track with an MTH aux tender and an Atlas O N&W baggage/tool car. The gloss finish on mine came out pretty smooth. Looking forward to getting all of the excursion cars behind it (the earlier release cars with the correct paint color that matches that Atlas O car) Not sure what Lionel has been thinking lately with using what is basically red for their recent N&W offerings.
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Anyone NOT receive their pre-order Class A yet? I'm still waiting on mine...
@pbuff posted:Anyone NOT receive their pre-order Class A yet? I'm still waiting on mine...
Just got one yesterday. Depending on your shop they all received them at different times. Combine that with possible shop closings for vacations and it can slow the process a bit.
I’m still waiting on mine. I’ve got a 1218 and Pilot version coming.
Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:
SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation. At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.
I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success. The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons. Maybe I am missing some steps.
@RickM46 posted:Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:
SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation. At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.
I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success. The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons. Maybe I am missing some steps.
When you push "info" AUX appears in the top LCD. Push the corresponding button under it, then AUX1, then 8.
DOH, thanks MartyE; saw the Aux on the LCD and have successfully turned off the forced coupler sounds using the manuals instructions.
I use whistle sound #5 and now its seems louder above all the other sounds. I have been waiting for this whistle sound since I started into Lionel in 2014; as a kid I had a bedroom window facing the railroad tracks (1 mile away) in my Pennsylvania coal town and at night I could easily hear the locos going by with, I think, this whistle.
Ordered my N&W 1201 last Saturday from TW and it turned up on Thursday; shipped in typical TW style - double boxed and padded to the max around the Lionel shipping box. No blemishes, everything works; darn good looking engine and tender; I like the bright red striping - a little darker Tuscan red would have been better BUT still looks good; the marker lighting and the light in the dog house is a nice touch; smokes like crazy. Happy Camper.
*WARNING!* - Do not do this!
Some of you have expressed a concern about the Class A footplate not riding on the tender deck. DO NOT go forcing the footplate down! You can see in the photo below (okay, it is a little fuzzy) that there is a nub on each of the hinges that keeps the footplate in a horizontal manner. If you go trying to force the plate down, you are probably going to break something that is not easy to fix!!!
If you really want to have the footplate ride on the tender deck, you can remove the two screws that are holding the footplate on the locomotive and then you can file that nub off of both hinges to where it is round. Then it should be able to go below horizontal and ride on the tender deck.
A couple of other things that I found when unboxing my A. I noticed that at the turret, on top of the boiler just in front of the cab, some of the piping was missing to this casting. I thought that this was odd.
Then as I turn my engine over, I noticed that lying there was one of the missing pieces that had broken off. Looking in the box, there was the other piece. So, at least I have both of the valves that should be on there.
One other thing that I notice was that on the scale front coupler the link from the front cut lever to the coupler pin was flopping around. Looking it over, This piece of rod just slips back into a hole in the cut lever bracket. It needs to do this in order that the scale coupler can be removed and replaced by the big coupler.
Overall, I am very pleased with this model. As I have stated before it is missing a few details that would make the model stand out even more. Cab curtains, I wonder how they missed those? The rod that needed to go to the whistle in order for it to be blown and the water gauge that belongs on the fireman's side of the tender in order to check the water level.
Lionel did get the injector outlet routed correctly through the beam of the frame.
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I received my 1218 from Nassau hobby yesterday. Very nice and smooth. One of the handrails on the back of the cab on the fireman's side is pulled out of the body. Also for anyone interested it will navigate ross o64 curves just fine with plenty of play left in all the moving parts. It just has some overhang. Until I relocate to my new train building atleast I can use it.
BigJim and Cummins: Some years back, I had an experience with my VL Niagara out of the box; the right vertical handrail on the cab was broken off from its bottom mount hole; tried crazy glue to remount it there and that turned into a mess; the crazy glue discolored/dissolved the black paint in the surrounding area; it didn’t hold that well anyway; so, had to sand, primer, repaint, and then epoxy the handrail in place. Don’t know if all crazy glue will do this
Rick,
Yes, being that the broken off valves are such small parts and very hard to get to in order to make a proper repair, they may just stay in with the spare parts bag. Not seeing Cummin's hand rail problem, it may just be a matter of inserting the handrail back in the hole like I did with the front cut lever rod.
More comments on the 1201: Very smooth running engine; engine sounds and rail sounds seem better than other legacy engines; tender is first rate but it would have been nice to have marker lights but the light in the streamlined dog house makes up for it.
You don't want markers on the tender!
I would like to mention that if any of you would like to hear what a real Class A can do, find the CD "Time Freight" by O. Winston Link. The entire CD he is onboard east and westbound time freights pulled by a Class A. Side A starts out in Roanoke heading east to Crewe, Va., while, Side B is westbound from Crewe toward Roanoke. Hold on to your hats near the last part of Side A, 'cause the engineer has it "in the wind"!
What dispatcher/station do your engineers call to in the crewtalk? I have the 1218 Excursion and my engineer radios "Norfolk", but I've heard from videos other Class A's radio other dispatchers, such as "Roanoke".
A nice little touch I haven't heard anyone talking about - adds a little uniqueness to the engines.
@Big Jim posted:You don't want markers on the tender!
Not authentic for the Class A 1201 What If Passenger scheme??
Update: Oops! Looks like none of the tenders in the Lionel scheme have tender marker lights.
@Big Jim posted:Rick,
Yes, being that the broken off valves are such small parts and very hard to get to in order to make a proper repair, they may just stay in with the spare parts bag. Not seeing Cummin's hand rail problem, it may just be a matter of inserting the handrail back in the hole like I did with the front cut lever rod.
I received a Vision line gg1 once with hose detailing missing which was not in the box. So I never got it fixed. Parts for that area were never on line.
@RickM46 posted:BigJim and Cummins: Some years back, I had an experience with my VL Niagara out of the box; the right vertical handrail on the cab was broken off from its bottom mount hole; tried crazy glue to remount it there and that turned into a mess; the crazy glue discolored/dissolved the black paint in the surrounding area; it didn’t hold that well anyway; so, had to sand, primer, repaint, and then epoxy the handrail in place. Don’t know if all crazy glue will do this
I would use epoxy first and then touch up with black paint where necessary. I’ve done that for fragile mounts and it’s been super. Crazy glue gets brittle and gives up in this kind of application.
@cjack posted:I would use epoxy first and then touch up with black paint where necessary. I’ve done that for fragile mounts and it’s been super. Crazy glue gets brittle and gives up in this kind of application.
Chuck, The proper way to make the repair would be to drill the valve and turret out and insert a new pipe. There really isn't enough "meat" there for any kind of glue to hold on to and not suffer further damage.
@cummins2500 posted:I received my 1218 from Nassau hobby yesterday. Very nice and smooth. One of the handrails on the back of the cab on the fireman's side is pulled out of the body. Also for anyone interested it will navigate ross o64 curves just fine with plenty of play left in all the moving parts. It just has some overhang. Until I relocate to my new train building atleast I can use it.
Just a comment on running on tighter curves. Many years ago I had a Lionel Y6b that seemed to run on O54 just fine, but in time, it broke the ball joint inside that connects the motor to the forward drivers. Just because there is enough "swing" doesn't mean other parts you can't see aren't getting stressed, particularly on articulated steamers. That said, I know lots of guys run on smaller radius and seem to have no issues, just thought it was worth throwing out a caution.
Jim, that stinks. Did you ask Lionel about getting it fixed?
@Norm Charbonneau posted:Jim, that stinks. Did you ask Lionel about getting it fixed?
Norm,
No, I haven't as I figure that it is not worth damaging the engine even more during shipping and there is no guarantee that a replacement part wouldn't do the same thing. If it was something really major, I would have.
If I had a resistance soldering set, it would be a fairly easy fix. Should have bought one years ago!
That’s on my list of tools to acquire! They’re a bit pricey though..
@Burl posted:Just a comment on running on tighter curves. Many years ago I had a Lionel Y6b that seemed to run on O54 just fine, but in time, it broke the ball joint inside that connects the motor to the forward drivers. Just because there is enough "swing" doesn't mean other parts you can't see aren't getting stressed, particularly on articulated steamers. That said, I know lots of guys run on smaller radius and seem to have no issues, just thought it was worth throwing out a caution.
I had never thought of that. Thank you for the warning!
@ironman1 posted:I believe the Sunset caboose is a CH (not a CG as I mentioned in my earlier reply). I'm not sure if Sunset produced a CG. Both versions are very similar and the same design as the wood sided CF, except with steel sides & the CH has end windows.
Here's a picture of my Sunset.
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I just took possession of the LCCA 1222. Beautiful engine!
Its my "40 years with the company" award. I got a Waterford crystal bowl for my 30 year award. While very nice, I like this much better!
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Congratulations ScottM! That’s a sharp looker. 😎
I finally got notice that my engines are shipping! Looks like Friday delivery. 👍🏻
Now that the A's are out there, who is going to produce the N&W axillary tender to run with them? It's a ready market. I'm pretty sure that someone produced them years ago. 3rd Rail maybe?
I know Lionel made one, and MTH may have done one as well. Lionel's are $300 easily on the used market.
OK guys, who's going to be the first to recreate Pillars of Smoke in the Sky. I can't wait to see two of these babies pulling a long string of hoppers with a pusher on the back end. It's Just a matter of time. Call me a romantic.
I really don’t have enough hoppers to justify this vulgar display of power but it was fun to run and sounded amazing!
Norm, even though you didn't have a ton of cars trailing behind those big beasts, the train looked great. I loved the weathering that you've done on them and on everything I saw in the video, you've done an amazing job on them. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing with us.
Hey Norm,
I believe you’re the first to run an N&W coal drag with a helper on the rear, behind the proper caboose! At least it’s the first I’ve seen in 3 rail O scale. I’ve been waiting for you to post a video. I loved the sound, & it looked great, even with a low number of hoppers. I’m sure with that much power, you could easily pull 50 plus hoppers, no sweat!
Looking forward to the next video!
Joe
My excursion 1218 finally arrived today. Got the pilot version last Friday. I’ll be posting videos on YouTube sometime soon. 😎
Anyone else have their engine show up with the screw missing out of the front couple cover in the pilot? Mine was out and the couple cover and coupler were just rattling around in the box.
Also, the step on the left side of the boiler front/smokebox is bent like a pretzel. Tried pushing on it, but way too sturdy to just push back into place.
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@Andrew B. posted:Also, the step on the left side of the boiler front/smokebox is bent like a pretzel. Tried pushing on it, but way too sturdy to just push back into place.
If the details are brass, it should bend back. The paint might flake off in the process though.
@rplst8 posted:If the details are brass, it should bend back. The paint might flake off in the process though.
I know it *should*, but the casting is very thick and has an extra support behind it, and it also minimally held into place. As I said, already tried it, and without using pliers it'll rip off the engine before it'll bend back to the correct shape.
Andrew,
What bent one way should bend back the other. Try taking a couple of sets of pliers and maybe wrap the points with some electrical tape to prevent scratching the paint. Then gently start squeezing the the two uprights pieces (circled in red) together while with another set of pliers gently bend down on the step. "Gently" means slowly & easily. Just a thought, "No Lifeguard - Swim at your own risk" 
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Andrew, have you consulted with Lionel service on the issue; maybe send the loco back to them?? I am no mechanic or metal person and consequently, have never had any luck bending anything back into its place; let us know what solution you picked.
I was able to carefully straighten out the step on my class A by hand. It was not as bent, so your mileage may vary
I’m not seeing the suggestion of applying some heat!
My steps were also bent up a bit, just not as badly. I was able to correct them with my thumb. They are actually pretty soft. I was trying to imagine how they’d get bent up like that. Maybe during packing? 
If it makes anyone feel better the real ones seem a little flappy:
I really can’t stand the heat shrunk LED leads. Now that they are stuffing two LEDs in there they are even fatter. I ordered some fiber optic end glow rod from Amazon to experiment with.
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Kind of hard to see where and what the step is...not knowing what it's supposed to look like. Some of the detail is too dark in the area of the step, I guess.
EDIT...I think I see it know. Pretty small on the scene but bent ? up.
@Norm Charbonneau posted:I really can’t stand the heat shrunk LED leads. Now that they are stuffing two LEDs in there they are even fatter. I ordered some fiber optic end glow rod from Amazon to experiment with.
I’m guessing the return to the shrink wrapped 3mm LEDs are due to the fact that the 2mm ceramic base LEDs are no longer available from the original manufacturer.
There is another type that has a little 2mm extension that will fit where the older ceramic ones do. I’ve previously used them for diesel marker lights. They may work here if the “nub” is long enough, though you’d have to drill a hole in the boiler front directly behind the marker lamp housing. That said, I’m having trouble finding the exact item now.
They sort of look like this, but with a longer nub.
OK, regarding the step bent upward, I finally got it; checked my 1201 and its step too is bent upward but not as much as the one above; I didn't notice it at first; I plan on leaving it as is since it breaking off would be worse. Must be something in the mold or jig or shipping or handling process that caused it.
On another note, Norm, what is the LED issue above that you discovered; is that related to the 1218?
My guess is on the class lights... The heat shrink on the bottom. I've seen worse. I can understand how this would bother some.
