Need a wiring diagram for a basic LionChief PCB board. What are the 5 sockets for? different colors.

Don't have any LC boards handy, but why not take the shell of a working LC locomotive and trace the wires?

@kj356.

Hello, I am new to the train hobby. But have always enjoyed Lionel trains sets.

Any way, how did your project go with the LC board? 

I been working with the idea of modifying a train engine I recently obtained using the same board.

Project worked fine. If you send your board # to Ask Lionel they quickly responded to me with the diagram as shown above!

Board worked well have done a couple of engines. They have some boards available for the older LionChief. You can use the universal remote to run them.

Gonna revive this thread with a slightly different question. I'm using a LC Dino Express Vulcan switcher for a project.

I'm not sure if they do anything, but there's a series of outputs on the board and I'd like to know if they can be used. The photo isn't the best but the series of terminals on the top left, and the S2 terminals bottom left are specifically what I'm looking at.

Given the limited functionality of LC boards, I may be chasing a ghost here but figured I'd ask. I checked with Lionel already and they don't have a drawing.

Bob

Bob, it's not uncommon to have unused outputs on any of the boards, depending on the application.  I don't know specifically about this one, but I've seen lots of boards that have inactive outputs.  Since the only person that can program them is Lionel, it's WYSIWYG as a rule.

Connect a meter, or even better, a 'scope to the output and see if anything happens there.

I tried looking this one up because my nephew has this engine- but is several states away so I cannot just pull the shell and check.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...el-LionChief-6-81677

As a note, the blue and orange wires would appear to be tied to direct power input- just the solder joints on the back of the board.

So- just trying to read between the lines- I think you are trying for directional lighting. and hoping that S2 provides that output?

I wish I had an answer but yes, I think testing with a meter or scope is about the best we could hope for since it's undocumented and unused.

I'll also add- because it came up in another Lionchief RF only topic- this is one of those situations you might need the chokes on the motor wires so that EMI/RFI from the motor control doesn't block  or interfere with radio range.

That's what's under the heatshrink on the motor leads- small inductors in series.

it is not a resistor even though Lionel parts listed it as such. It is an inductor. Appears to be 1.8uH in value based on the color bands.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/RESISTOR-1.9-OHM-10

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Bob, it's not uncommon to have unused outputs on any of the boards, depending on the application.  I don't know specifically about this one, but I've seen lots of boards that have inactive outputs.  Since the only person that can program them is Lionel, it's WYSIWYG as a rule.

Connect a meter, or even better, a 'scope to the output and see if anything happens there.

@Vernon Barry posted:

I'll also add- because it came up in another Lionchief RF only topic- this is one of those situations you might need the chokes on the motor wires so that EMI/RFI from the motor control doesn't block  or interfere with radio range.

That's what's under the heatshrink on the motor leads- small inductors in series.

it is not a resistor even though Lionel parts listed it as such. It is an inductor. Appears to be 1.8uH in value based on the color bands.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/RESISTOR-1.9-OHM-10

Thanks guys. I figured I was barking up a tree here but it never hurts to ask the experts on this forum.

I suppose if I want more functions I could go with a LC+2.0 board.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I suppose if I want more functions I could go with a LC+2.0 board.

The LC+2.0 boards are pretty pricey, you may want to reconsider.   Remember, the audio you get on these boards is what you get, there's no changing it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The LC+2.0 boards are pretty pricey, you may want to reconsider.   Remember, the audio you get on these boards is what you get, there's no changing it.

Which I why we went with an older LC engine. But after buying all the detail parts (grab bars, etc) for the engine, the boards don't seem all that expensive after all......

Then again, I'll have the only shop switcher that roars like a dinosaur......

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Which I why we went with an older LC engine. But after buying all the detail parts (grab bars, etc) for the engine, the boards don't seem all that expensive after all......

Then again, I'll have the only shop switcher that roars like a dinosaur......

Bob

FWIW, that was one of the better boards and motor combinations. Some of those switchers made during that timeframe, for whatever reason were a little weaker on speed and pulling. This was a good chassis to start from.

Edit, where i got that information from was a local club member who often breaks up sets and sells on the bay. I got my set (this Pet shop one) from Menards back when they had them on deep discount in 2018?. Point being, my friend had bought all of the various ones and roadnames of that time era- and some like this one were notably stronger pullers.

@Vernon Barry posted:

FWIW, that was one of the better boards and motor combinations. Some of those switchers made during that timeframe, for whatever reason were a little weaker on speed and pulling. This was a good chassis to start from.

Agreed- It does run well.

@RSJB18 posted:

Then again, I'll have the only shop switcher that roars like a dinosaur......

Every RR needs one of those!

Where was the dinosaur roar in the video?🤔😁

Would the lionchief board fit in a dock side switcher?