Need Advice -- How to apply 25+ year old Champ decals using Microscale Liquid Decal Film or other techniques

I'm curious to see what suggestions are offered. I've not had much luck with old decals...

Mark in Oregon

With old decals I give them several very thin coats of Tamiya clear spray paint. The key has been light coats. All depends on the decals condition.

I do not cut to close to the decal area as this can crack the image. And I go very light on the micro-set and try not to touch the image and make sure it goes on straight to the right location and not having to move it to much to get it set right.

Sometimes the older decals have fallen apart when you apply them splitting into several small pieces. So mount with care the  less they are moved and touched the better.

I have had good luck with Champ decals. Before coating them cut a strip without lettering and see if it survives water and placing it on a surface. Putting a decal film on them makes them thicker and harder to hide so best avoid it if its not necessary.

I have had no luck with Walthers decals though. They dissolved in water before being able to remove them from the backing.

Pete

FWIW- on my first attempt with similar old Champ decals I just used plain water. I tried to minimize handling once it was on the car. The number sets are Champ. The LIRR are new. I actually had one of the Long Island decals break when positioning it. The Champs went on without a problem.

The car was weathered and dull-coated to seal everything.

I have had good luck using Champ decals as is.   As mentioned above, test a small piece off the set to see if they stay together. 

Some do fall apart.    I hold the sheet up to the light sort of flat to reflect light off the sheet.    If I see obvious cracks, I coat the sheet with the liquid decal film.   If I don't see obvious cracks I do a test and use as it.  

Champ decals are thick compared with some new brands.    So coating them does make them thicker and harder to set in.    The instructions say to coat and let dry for 15 minutes.    That actually seems to work better than overnight.

The Microscale decal setting solution is not as strong as the old Champ or old/current Walthers Solvaset.    With older decals such as Champ, I  use the champ setting solutin or solvaset, but not at first.   

I put the decals on with water, or maybe microscale setting, and let them set up for 5-10 minutes, then I careful overbrush them with solvaset.    and then I DON'T TOUCH them for a few hours or overnight.    the solvaset will cause them to sort of wrinkle and melt and get very soft.    If  you tocuh them you mess them  up.    I let them set and then come back and work on removing bubble by piercing and using mor solvaset.  

Those numbers on the LI car,  if you put solvaset on after the decal sets, it will usually set them down clear and tight.   Might take a few applications and some bubble pricking.

prrjim

Thanks. Those are some good tips.

Mark in Oregon

By the way, there is a new decal provider, "K4 Decals" that has a pretty nice selection of stuff out.   I have used one of his sets very successfully for a Union RR gondola - that is the old US Steel road around Pittsburgh.

FYI, I put everything on with water first for the most part.   Then put the setting solution on after I get the decals located where I want them.

@prrjim posted:

Those numbers on the LI car,  if you put solvaset on after the decal sets, it will usually set them down clear and tight.   Might take a few applications and some bubble pricking.

I was debating using the setting solutions but since I had never tried it before I went with water only. I will try your method next time.

Thanks

prrjim

Yes, that vendor is a great resource for stuff, including decals.

I guess I was confused by the OP's initial question, in that I thought he was referring to old, possibly brittle decals.  New decals have never been a problem for me...

RSJB18:

I can't imagine not using decal setting solution, and Walthers "Solve A Set" has been my go to for years. 👍

Mark in Oregon

I have many older sets of Champ and Walthers on my fright car fleet.  I love TICHY, MicroScale, K4 etc.  but I also love certain sets no longer available.  
If there is any doubt about the decal, spray a couple light coats of Glosscoat and let dry.  Glosscoat is laquer-based so the decal can be applied within an hour.  

If the decal is solid I apply a drop of Solvaset to the area prior to application.  Be accurate in your placement and adjustments and you’ll be good to go.  
*Do a practice round on an older car so you can develop a “feel” for the process, using unpainted wooden toothpicks to encourage your decal to go that final 1/64”

Examples of “old” decal applications:

Atlas car, Scalecoat, Champ decals

Atlas car, Scalecoat, Champ

Lionel Legacy s2, Tamiya/Testors,

Stock Lionel flat rebuilt for early TOFC

MTH crane, Rustoleum, MicroScale

Weaver U25, Scalecoat, MicroScale & Cham

WOW!  Thanks for all the replies and helpful suggestions.

And it's encouraging to learn that Champ decals seem to have aged well.