Need help adding Automatic Crossing Gate to FastTrack

It looks like you have placed the isolation track sections into the track plan, good.

Now, you just need to modify each section of track between them to have isolated/insulated outside trigger rails like this:

Ok thanks Rob, so now I see how to untie the two outside rails, but I can’t fit in the 5” Isolated section. And I don’t know if I can cut a gap without losing a rail because it doesn’t look like the rails have enough fastening tabs to the roadbed.

OK... the next step, if you can't fit in the isolated sections to your track plan is to make your own by pulling pins - which is very handy - as you can choose which sections to use, and it's totally reversible if you want:

Ok well thank you very much Rob,

That is actually much better than I thought because I had just bought all new track and it just so happens that one of the curves was missing the pin. I didn’t know how those pins were installed and thought I could just pull a pin out of another piece like with tubular track.  So this is great I already have one done.

OK I’m still a little confused and I think I’ve missed something.

I isolated one of the outside rails as per video above and getting ready to hookup the wires when it occurred to me that power to the Automatic Crossing Gate is “variable track voltage” and not fixed accessory voltage.

So is that the normal way to do it and what happens if I slow down the train to go around the bend?

I found this video using two transformers with the black wire tied together, but why do I need a separate transformer and not just use the accessory terminals?

You don't have to use a separate transformer.  You can use the accessory side of your transformer.  Mike even states that around 3:23 in the video.  Remember that you can also "set" the voltage on the accessory side if you are using a CW-80. 

Oh! Thanks Steims I must have missed that point in the video. 

I have 3 CW-80s, but I was unaware that I could adjust the voltage. I guess I'll have to pull out the instructions. LOL I have just never used that part of it before.

Not sure if it was mentioned in the video but by extending the isolated rail as you've done here you create a realistic operation scenario.  The gate drops well before the arrival of the train at the level crossing and raises well after the train has passed.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, I’m happy with how it came out even though I didn’t plan it like this. It just happened that the corner was the only place I could put the crossing and I didn’t have room for any factory made pieces. It did occur to me that I might not have enough total track around to make it work right, but I realized after I put the whole section in place that it was perfect.

I have my wife working on the building placement right now so I can cut the holes for the lighting and then I still have to paint everything before I can actually run trains on it. Plus I’m still waiting for the Crossing Gate to get here and I’m hoping it will show up sometime this week.

I've run into this but sometimes the track rails are so close together at the ends that you might have to file some of the track end to keep it from making contact with the other track depending on your layout surface.

Oh Wow, thank you for bringing this up because it has been on my mind since I first saw the video. I haven’t had a chance to power up the track yet with so much other work to be done. Still waiting for delivery of the Crossing Gate, but I hope to at least hook up a 12v light or something to see if there is a problem.

The surface is pretty soft foam and I’m sure there will be some flexing of the track as my Berkshire passes through. I have a couple of atlas super track saws that I may be able to open up the gap if needed.