Need help from fellow tinplaters please?

Hi Joe.  The first thing I would suggest is think about what accessories and trains you may want now or in the future. If there are must have pieces even if you don't get them now start planning the real estate for them now. I have re engineered my layout to fit in accessories and sets like the race car set and the monorail.  If I had to do it all over I would design a layout with designated areas of where and what I want for tinplate.    I personally like levels so almost every loop has it's own show case for the trains your running on it . 

Tom Snyder's layout may give you some ideas. His was in two rooms, but you could downsize it.

Trainlover160 posted:

I have been trying to design a track plan for a permanent layout, and am having a mental block.  My allotted space is 12'4"  x 7' '8". I am wanting to run only loops. I am wanting 2 loops on the bottom both in 72" radius. One standard and one in O gauge,  the O on the outer loop. I would also like to have a second level with std 42" and maybe 54" O gauge. I would really like to have the track on the 2nd level cross over one of the trains on the bottom so I could run my Tin Hellgate right over it. I am not sure if I am trying to over think this or just having a mental block.

There are so many of you that have great layouts that I wanted to see if anyone here had any ideas. I realize it is a small area, but appreciate any input.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe, 

I understand what you are trying to do and the problem.  O72 is going to be 6' at the center rail, which means you need another 6" to the outside of the ties on standard gauge.  To add the O gauge loop, plus room between the tracks is going to take you right to the edge of that 7' 8" width.  This means your lower level will be running along the edge of the layout.  What you could do is shorten the inside loop, so the Hellgate bridge could cross one end of the loop.  If the 12' 4" side is the front and back, The O54 loop on the second level should be pushed all the way  back so it is directly above the lower level track.  If your standard gauge loop is 6' 6" by 8' and pushed to one side, you should be able to have the O54 loop cross the standard gauge loop at the other end. It will be tricky to get two loops on the upper level unless you have the 305 bridge, or the O42 is just an inside loop on the end opposite the bridge.

George

Moonman posted:

Tom Snyder's layout may give you some ideas. His was in two rooms, but you could downsize it.

Tom's layout has inspired some ideas on mine! 

All great ideas guys thanks so much!

Joeg

one thing i try to avoid is running parallel to all the layout edges.  do anything you can to avoid 90° turns and track that only runs N, S, E or W.  of course, unless you use flex track, Gargraves or tubular (ie: something you can cut), you'll pretty much be stuck with a boring track plan.

cheers...gary

One thing I've learned if it's a high rail layout or tinplate "toy" type layout is no matter how basic your track plan is if you make the scenery/accessories around it interesting to look at the trains are almost secondary.  Things like cars,people,lights,buildings etc.  

Joe,

I haven't had much luck coming up with anything. The 148" is just ok, but the 92" needs another foot or perhaps an angled end that's wider on one end.

I started with something kidney shaped and it looked like it woul work and still leave room for scenic items. Table too small.

I then went to a racetrack look with 84 and 72 and angled the upper level. The O gauge on the upper level caused design cramps. Putting a second elevated track will detract from the HellGate bridge passing over the lower level. I used 57 Std on the elevated and tried O42 for the O gauge.

All trains and no cool tin buildings and such.  maybe building some 5 rail like PaPa Steve would be a good compromise.

Anyway, here's some pics and a track plan. I was using USA STD gauge and Lionel O.

Chris Lonero posted:

One thing I've learned if it's a high rail layout or tinplate "toy" type layout is no matter how basic your track plan is if you make the scenery/accessories around it interesting to look at the trains are almost secondary.  Things like cars,people,lights,buildings etc.  

That's what I've aimed for, I guess. The trains are very cool, but so are all the goodies (figures, buildings, lights, etc.)- those items make the layout come to life.

Moonman posted:

Joe,

I haven't had much luck coming up with anything. The 148" is just ok, but the 92" needs another foot or perhaps an angled end that's wider on one end.

I started with something kidney shaped and it looked like it woul work and still leave room for scenic items. Table too small.

I then went to a racetrack look with 84 and 72 and angled the upper level. The O gauge on the upper level caused design cramps. Putting a second elevated track will detract from the HellGate bridge passing over the lower level. I used 57 Std on the elevated and tried O42 for the O gauge.

All trains and no cool tin buildings and such.  maybe building some 5 rail like PaPa Steve would be a good compromise.

Anyway, here's some pics and a track plan. I was using USA STD gauge and Lionel O.

 

thanks for the pics and track plan here, Moonman- a visual really helps me. 

Ok, here's 2 main lines with some shape to avoid the racetrack. Looks like enough space for some buildings and such. Even though I used 57 on the one end, I believe most engines will negotiate that diameter well. Takes a cut 57 to bring it back to straight and some cut straights for fitting.

using the large diameter curves mostly.

I am not sure where to go with the elevated. Depends on building placement below and what your eye likes.

What do you think?

If you like it, print it and draw some building/acc placeholders with the dimensions and how you see the elevated run. Take a picture and post it. We'll go from there.

I am sure you have seen my layout 7'6"x13' . I have loops 072  and 72 Standard. I also have a loop of 031. Still working on it I want to add a small elevated section. Trying to use al the space I have.

DOC posted:

I am sure you have seen my layout 7'6"x13' . I have loops 072  and 72 Standard. I also have a loop of 031. Still working on it I want to add a small elevated section. Trying to use al the space I have. I am not sure I seen your layout it sounds really interesting I'd love to see an overhead view of it if you have one or something close to it

Hope this helps. Just a few loops I am adding a section at the far end.

Awesome Doc, I have a few questions though what is the distance between the two Outer Loop and how do you change bulbs in the center of the display Do you have a trap door in the center that you go through what is the tower on that outside corner next to the power station is that homemade I don't remember seeing it and it's pretty neat.

Joeg

If I need to change bulbs. I remove some buildings and climb up on the table. That is how I get to the trains on the shelves also behind the layout.

The tower is an Beacon and I added the little building.  The track on the straight is 7 in. apart center to center in the front of the layout so I could get the  bridge in.  In the back they are closer.  When I build a layout I put the track together the way I like it make sure everything clears and if I am happy with it I screw it down.  I started this layout last Aug I hope to have the Section in the back done soon,but I hope the layout is never done. I know I will keep adding things all the time.

Maybe you need to rethink some ideas. Maybe Std gauge on the bottom with O gauge on the upper level. It works for my layout. Rethink your curve radius. Most std gauge of Prewar vintage and copies run on O42 curves. Are you going to Buy trains that need large radius curve and have room to run them. Big trains are also big dollars

A lesson I learned on my first layout. I connected two loops of track to switch trains loop to loop. The only way to go from one loop to the next is the loop you are entering must be clear. Now it is two disconnected loops. Sidings are on the inner loop.

The Five finger switcher rules.

GFTIV,

Yes, everything was made to run on 42".  However, my 400E and Ives 3254 will look better on 72". I am running O-72, for my o gauge engines that are just too big to run on anything but O54, and I want room to grow and 72 will run just about anything I can put on it. I can run my 384s, 8E's and smaller stuff on second level.

JoeG