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Stan...thank you..now I see the deal...was wondering what the belt around the drum was for and just now saw the transparent cog belt. I was looking for a spinning motor, not a vibrating version{signal tower}.

As for the "quiet" aspect- tha'ts what my now 8yr old wants.

As for the vibrating, it's really only needed for that last log to get picked up by the belt...dump 1-2 cars worth of logs in the hopper and they'll all go cept that last one and the DC motor will be right next to that bin so it may still help since the chains aren't that smooth in action. My set up is temporary, but from the tests it worked well enough to permanently attach it sometime soon.

 

 

Isn't that motor still available from lionel?...if it's not working any more.

A DC geared motor could be O-ringed to that drive pulley w/gear and depending on it's size could be in or mounted under the base.

Last edited by Burlington Route
Originally Posted by Burlington Route:
As for the vibrating, it's really only needed for that last log to get picked up by the belt...

If the OP goes the DC route with a quiet/smooth DC gearmotor, I was thinking a cellphone/pager vibrating motor could be used IF some vibration is needed to keep the parts moving.  The same surplus motor houses that sell the $5 (or so) gearmotors that would apply here also sell these DC pager motors for about $1.  Or you can roll your own by putting an asymmetrical/unbalanced weight on the shaft of any cheap DC hobby motor.

Originally Posted by southernrr:

 Now to just have to find it and get it working. 

Seems a first step is to determine how fast the pulley wheel rotates under normal operation.  Sometimes all you get for a "spec" from these surplus motor houses is a voltage and RPM.  For what I believe will be very modest torque requirements, note that you can run a 12V (or whatever) DC gearmotor at much lower voltages using readily available and cheap components and get a corresponding drop in RPM.  And, since you probably have 14V AC accessory power or the like available you're on the right side of the electrical curve since it easier to step down the voltage than to step it up.

 

Please keep us posted on your progress.

So, the saw mill isn't working...or isn't working to your liking?

1st off, looking at that design, the vibrator mechanism pulls the cable to turn the wheel and that spring pulls it back...might not be the vibrator that's so bad as maybe the spring tension or the cable attached to it...maybe.

There's a gear on that drive pulley- what does that turn..and is it turning nicely enough to not drag the rest of the mechanism down in speed...you could have one or multiple variables slowing the process down...

If your tired of the whole thing and want another option, a geared DC motor with the same shaft speed is what you'd want...question is what is the normal drum speed for that logger? Anyone got one to roughly time by?...how many rpm?

 

In my experience, once the "motor" is adjusted, they work reliabily.

Those string motors only work on AC.

The areas of adjustment are:

string tension

gap between the armature (moving piece) and the electromagnet

voltage

 

Courtsey of Olsen's, here is the first of several pages on servicing the original 464 sawmill. The mechanism on the 2301 sawmill appears to be the same.

 

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs/acc464p1.pdf

 

The gear does not turn anything in the sawmill. I assume it is just part of the pully casting, and is used in another application of the motor.

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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