Need to do a concrete slab Area

Bill,

 

  I used Evergreen styrene "plain" sheets and then painted them with Floquil "concrete" paint. You can get the paint in a small aerosol can or in a bottle and use an air brush if you have one. I then scribed lines on the sheets to simulate expansion joints, which in your case due the size you could you the different sheets butted up against each other as some of the expansion joints. You can get the styrene sheets in a pack of three, I believe they are only 6" x 12" each. I do know Evergreen makes the sheets in larger sizes, as this would probably be what you would want. I would check there web site or call your local hobby shops. Just an idea for you, good luck!!

 

Jeff

i use task board and aged concrete or concrete paint depending on age.  task board has a slight texture and absorbs paint so it really looks like concrete slab imho.  u can get large sheets of it from their web site. i use it for lots of different things. check out their website for some more info

I buy model-quality plywood and cover it with a very thin layer of spackling, sand it smooth and then prime it, then paint it with a concrete paint I mix up to the shade I want.  I thien scribe seams and cracks and maybe even dig into it a bit to make potholes, depending, then use powders to weather and dirty parts of it. 

I use 1/8" or 1/4" Masonite [depending on thickness desired] and score it along a steel straight edge with a razor saw, ice pick,etc, to create fake expansion joints. Then I paint it with concrete color with some weathering/ageing. Last, I run a fine point Black Sharpie along the scored joints.

Some grey spray-can primer paints are about the right shade for concrete. Sandable primer paint can be smoothed down if you want.

Luan board, cut to fit, works well. I use Drywall compound to smooth.  I then use a sandable primer sealer Sherwin Williams PrepRite Problock (141-1669) in spray cans.  Surface smooth/primed, I have currently on the shelf Rust-oleum Camouflage 1917 Khaki. I have use a Krylon Khaki also. Both a decent aged concrete IMO.    Spend some money paint.   Polyscale Aged Concrete F414320   Fresh or new concrete is more a grey primer application. IMO.

Roundhouse floor.

 

To get a concrete color with little effort, I rattle can spray the area with almond or beige, then overspray it with primer gray, lightly....just enough to add a gray tint without covering the base coat..

 

 

 

 

 

All of the concrete in this scene was done with Rustoleum Desert Bisque, over gray or black acrylic paint as a primer. (Use darker colored primer for older concrete). The dock deck is over foamcore, the walls are on pink foam. The spray paint will melt the foam, so you need a thick coat of acrylic underneath. On old concrete (such as these walls) I purposely let the foam melt a bit.

Desert Bisque --- I have always wanted the job of naming paint colors.  That's rich.  Better yet, great modeling for sure.  I really like that gray look.

Desert Bisque--- ...???

Styrene or MDF sealed and sanded smooth.

Then spray with Rustoleum Kaki camoflage color

#1917.

Also don,t forget some scribes for expansion joints

Then lightly weather.

India ink and alcohol on hydrocal.

 

Consider:

 

http://www.cell-crete.com/

 

David

I purchased anchor cement in an 8 lbs plastic bucket dispenser and mixed to a pancake thickness, poured into wooden formers to a depth of about 1/8 ( and sometimes deeper) thickness.  Scribed while still moist.  It looks like, well, concrete.

 

I did an area of about 2 square feet. I will find a picture and send to you if you are interested.  Good luck

 

 

Paul...so is it safe to presume that the materal does not adhere to the wooden forms? Thanks, Ken

Thanks all for your suggestions.  I am leaning toward styrene sheets because those should be able to withstand disturbances generated by opening and closing the access hatch.  Also, the entire layout table (22'X10') is moved quite often for access as well.  The table undoubtedly flexes a bit whenever it's moved.

 

I think the concrete method would produce the most realistic surface, but might be too brittle to remain intact after a number of stresses from above mentioned movements.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

 

Nice Super O!!!

Gatorfoam board can be used for both buildings & roadways. You can scrib the surface to look like crakes in the concrete. A 1/2" thick sheet would provide a great base over a access opening or just a base to set your buildings on and move them back and forth from laout to workbench.

Diesel Service building floor....I used it as a test bed so to speak, because the roundhouse floor is going to be done the same way.

 

 Picked this stuff at Home Depot. Mixed it up using ICE COLD water (gives a ton of working time), slopped it in there and troweled it smooth. You can pour it up to 1" thick w/o cracks it says, and I went 3/8" with no problems. 

 

Its primed and painted with acrylic paint after sanding and patching. The track on the left has 3/8" plywood butted up to the ties, and then the wall repair was used to fill the void between the edge of the plywood and the rail.

 

Obviously I haven't cleaned the paint off the rails yet, that's why you don't see the middle rail. 

Cut slabs from a 1/4" Styrofoam sheet into sections and soak in acrylic Linen color paint.

When dry, secure together then highlight depth of cracks using a pencil.

Boom-done!

Again, thanks for all your suggestions.  One detail I forgot to mention is my surface area in question is covered with 1/2" thick foam board.  Also, I already have streets ready to be continued from the adjacent area (town).  Thus, I have to consider thickness match ups.  I suppose I could just paint the foam board and be done with it, although I was looking for a more concrete textured appearance. First, I'll have to level some "dented" areas that occurred from my leaning on it to get to those hard to reach areas.  I have several products that could be used for that.

 

Bill

I used the back side of roofing shingles for my roadways and parking lots.  I cut the tabs off of three tab shingles and used the long part for roads.  The tabs were used as fillers and for parking lot areas. I fastened the shingles down with small brads.  The seams were filled with drywall compound.  A damp sponge was used to smooth the seams.  Everything was then painted with PolyScale Aged Concrete.  A Sharpie marker was used to simulate cracks and repairs.  Diluted paints and India Ink were used to add oil stains and weathering.  Black chalk was used to make the skid marks.

 

Tom

Strogey, the form word will easily separate from the anchor cement. I usually pull them once the cement has began to set up.  Easy to do.  Good luck

 I'm with you...  I checked Noah's tome and it sez...

 

bisque n. A rich, creamy soup made from meat, fish, or shellfish. A thick cream soup made of pureed vegetables

 

Desert soup?????   An oasis pool of ill repute and bouquet?  Why not a really catchy name (as on the paints in the Gamers section of the LHS) such as Saharan Sesspool?

 

 

Actually, this makes a second group of people I'd love to encounter at a cocktail party.  Besides the Namers-of-Paint-and-Other-Mundanities I've always wanted to meet the people who design the patterns for men's ties....especially the crazy paisley's!  (I'm convinced their bubble is somewhere below the plumb lines.)  Some of the designs resemble the colorful patterns I remember floating on the surface of the Cuyahoga River many years ago...when it famously caught fire!

 

And, yes, real BISQUE is very rich! 

 

Sorry, Mr. Melvin, sir...

 

Happy Easter, all!