Need to ID and Fix an NW2 Switcher

looks like an MPC 8354 made in '73 & '74. 8356 is an MPC GP7. I shouls think the parts would be the same as a Postwar 622 S 2

So the big question then, is where do I find the parts?  An exploded view would also be nice.  Could you point me in the right direction?

Olsen's has the exploded views on their site, not sure about MPC, but they can help you, or give Jeff a call at The Train Tender.

Dave,

I'm a complete Nube with this stuff.  Mechanically speaking, I'm excellent with tools, but with regards to nomenclature, or technical terms, I'm an idiot....   thus, you'll need to speak to me as such... LOL (I don't recall ever asking someone to treat me like I'm stupid)....  

I briefly went to the Olsen's site, but I'm not sure how to start and the site looks like it's having trouble anyway.  I'll call Jeff as suggested.

It's a Lionel NW-2 with a sheet metal frame. Cab number 8354.

Roy, I'm trying to find an online exploded view so that I can order the right parts, as well as see now to take it apart. ....could you give me a web address?

Any explosion diagrams for your engine are right on the Lionel web site, buried in their service manual.

http://www.lionel.com/media/su...nt1to9/1Complete.pdf

Ok, this is awesome.  So far, I need 8,9,10 from the exploded view of the motor truck.  However, I go here:
http://www.lionel.com/Customer...8010-117&match=2

and put the part number in (8010-117) and I get nothing back.  Does this mean that they aren't sold anymore?  In fact, I put in "Pinion Gear", or different part numbers, and I always get nothing... I MUST be doing something wrong.....

They're still sold, just go to a parts dealer like The Train Tender or do a Google Search.

The part number has been changed to 600-8010-117.

give Jeff @ The Train Tender a call, he'll have what you need in the mail before you hang up the phone.

Jeff is very busy right now, I would recommend downloading an order form and faxing or emailing it to him with the parts order.

Rob et al.  Sounds like this Jeff-person is an awesome dude.  Maybe I should just have him over for dinner, we'll talk trains and he'll show me how much I don't know, then I'll order parts from him over desert.  URGH!  

This is frustrating because I could talk your ear off about motorcycles or model airplanes.

Rob - How am I supposed to know what the new prefix is?  I'm assuming it's the same for all the parts on this loco, but, just in case, I get a little happy with my dissassembly....

The thumping noise you hear is my head hitting the wall repeatedly...  the giggle is my children thinking I'm just being silly.

Google the original part numbers, or look them up on parts dealers' websites. For MPC/Fundimensions parts, many parts have the added the "600" prefix, but only by Lionel.

This was done to be able to track parts electronically, so all parts have a 10 digit number. Old part number 8xxx-3 becomes 600-8xxx-003, for example, and then it follows - 8xxx-20 becomes 600-8xxx-020 and so forth. Changes that use a part which has been superseded appear to not follow this due to the substitution.

Jeff will know. Just tell him the cab number,8353 MPC S2 switcher and he'll know what you need.

I've taken the top off and pulled the motor truck off.  I pulled the top of the motor off and looked inside it's belly.  It's horrible in there.  Not to mention the two pinion gears are wobbling around like they aren't secured to anything, which can't be the case.

Is there a thread that describes how to pull this thing apart?  It looks like it's held together with compression settings of some sort.  Kind of like what you'd find in the top of a hammer.  I have a good amount of experience with small gas motors and pretty good mechanical know-how.  Pulling it apart CORRECTLY will be my next ticket.

Here's a couple shots to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with.

This will not be easy, but also not as bad as it looks.

You will have to remove the staking for the gear side truck side only, with a small grinder(Dremel, etc.) leaving enough material to cement it back after the repair(12 hour epoxy).

If you pull the two wheels, and maybe not even all the way, you will be able to replace the two worn nylon idler gears.

The gear studs should be fine, the nylon gear design was implemented in 1970 to allow gear wear without the brass-on-aluminum/steel and steel-on-aluminum/steel postwar(1955-1969) wear to the axles/studs that rendered those motors junk once worn out.

The rest of the gears(the worm wheel and drive gear) look good, and I wouldn't dis-assemble the truck any further as that would entail doing some irreversible damage to the original staking, and it would never be quite right again.

Clean all old grease & debris from the entire assembly. After pressing the wheels back on & gauging them, cement the truck side frame back on, you can re-stake if possible.

Lube it right. Use synthetic motor oil on the brass/Oilite axle bushings working it in well, and Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 on all side gears(and those two little idler studs), the worm(armature gear) and worm wheel, as well as the lower armature bearing below the worm gear.

The condition of the traction tires, rollers, and worm wheel point to a low-hours diesel loco, it was just run dry damaging the idler gears.