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Hey Guys,  Your Train Room for example.

1.     Number of Sq. feet of floor space?

2     # of overhead LED Bulbs?

3.    BR30 or BR40 or ???

4.    Wattage equiv.  60, 75, 100 ?

5.     What color bulbs does your layout enjoy? 

Thanks in advance for your input . Lots of time on your part I know but I appreciate it.  Trying to do it right the first time.

My best regards

Tommy

 

 

 

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Right now my layout of 6'x16' in an open space of about 10'x18' enjoys 5000k daylight T40 bulbs in 5 shop lights, 2 bulbs per fixture. I plan to convert the T40 bulbs to LEDs as the ballasts or bulbs go bad. There are also plans to expand the layout. I have no idea how to calculate needed light for an area, but I can see quite well on my layout and that is what matters to me.

12 by 30 ft. We have 12 of the LED smaller can lights in daylight.  I need to add 1 more light to each track system,  their are 2 of them.  I should have done more research on what to use but this works for now. The walls are painted light sky blue. It is a mess, just got the main line down for now so don't look at the layout.  1484273853844-103452945914842739292002068349758 

1484274233553-519552300

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thebeeman posted:

Hey Guys,  Your Train Room for example.

1.     Number of Sq. feet of floor space?

2     # of overhead LED Bulbs?

3.    BR30 or BR40 or ???

4.    Wattage equiv.  60, 75, 100 ?

5.     What color bulbs does your layout enjoy? 

Thanks in advance for your input . Lots of time on your part I know but I appreciate it.  Trying to do it right the first time.

My best regards

Tommy

 

 

 

Posted this on another thread recently. Hope it helps you decide on your lighting. 

Paul 2- The color difference you are seeing is probably due to your lighting.

You mentioned fluorescent in the attic and LED in the basement. Both lighting sources can produce very different color light. Fluorescent can range from warm- almost pink light, to cool blue. LED color range is endless with the uses of phosphors that the manufacturers place in front of the LED's to produce the desired color. Look at the markings on the fluorescent tube and see if it says WW (warm white)/ CW (Cool white),  or maybe a 3 digit number like 835, 841. The higher the number the cooler blue the light will be.

Same for the LED's too. Most shop lights (the basic Home Depot fixtures) are made with cool white chips. They have more blue in the light they produce and will change how our eyes interpret color. The same number codes are used to indicate color temperature.

I have been  a electrician for close to 30 years and have done a lot of lighting design. The concept is called efficacy and can drastically change the way we see colors. I took a lighting design class years ago at Philips Lighting's design studio in New Jersey. It is amazing what can be done with the appearance of a color just by changing the light source shining on it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy

You can actually use this to your advantage to change the lighting effects in different areas on your layout.

Hope this help so that you don't drive yourself to drink trying to match the colors. Take a sample from your basement and look at it under the  attic lighting and see if there is a difference.

Good Luck,

RSJB18 posted:

 

Hope this help so that you don't drive yourself to drink trying to match the colors. Take a sample from your basement and look at it under the  attic lighting and see if there is a difference.

Good Luck,

Or worst take favorite car(s) outside in bright daylight and see how those colors really change from your attic or basement lights.

I have LED spots in basement and tried to get bulbs with as close to sunny light as possible.  Also use a dimmer to reduce light output when running trains and full on brite when needing to work and fix layout.

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