How can a new improved turntable only cost $209.00; it just not right. How can Atlas make any money on this
daylight posted:How can a new improved turntable only cost $209.00; it just not right. How can Atlas make any money on this
while I can't speak for Atlas, some assumptions can be made. This is the same molding as their previous run, so they didn't have to pay for R&D or new molding. That right there saves them a ton of money.
Guys, please update here on how you like the new turntable and setting it up. Is anyone swapping out the new for the old? I still have the old one and considering getting the new one. I am hoping the wiring could stay where it is and just swap out the new for old.
-Tom
I am replacing the original model with the new one. The old model did not work well with my scale engines(weight issue). It will be a while before I install the new one as am using old one to work out track solution with a new roundhouse I recently built from a kit. The two earlier roundhouses, a 3-stall Atlas and a 5-stall Scale University, were just too big for the space available. The new roundhouse is a Korber 3-stall and appears to be an old, out-of-production model. I could go on infinitum about my difficulties assembling that sucker, but will refrain. Will post results on the turntable when/if I get it operational.
I finally was able to get enough time to install the new table. I took a video of the old and then the new table in action. The first video is the old table so you can get a comparison of each, at the end of the video I run it at full speed. The 2nd and 3rd video are of the new table, I meant to pause the video when a short occurred but stopped it instead thus splitting it in two. I think the short was cause because my table is just sitting on top not secured and I'm having a shimming issue, that was the case after the installed the first table and was resolved once shimmed. I noticed that the indexing for the new table is different. On the old one there is a longer pause at each stop. This made it a little bit harder for me to use and get the new table to stop where I wanted it to. I'm sure I'll get used to that over time. I also got pictures of the two tables side by side. The old table is slightly yellow compared to the new more grayish one. I don't smoke and believe this may be a result of the plastic aging, like that old computer monitor that everyone has had that turned yellow at the end of it's life. Something important to note is that the power connections are switched on each of my tables. One the old one the common was to the left of the motor, on the new one it's on the right. Also the motor power connections are switched as well. I'm using the ERR mini commander with mine. when I start the table in what would be forward I like it to turn clockwise, and reverse counter clockwise. Connecting the wires to the opposite connectors did that. Also the ERR board did not fit under the new shed,Which is the exact same size as the old shed. I was able to install mine in a TMCC direct lockon building I had that had no electronics already in it, which you can see in the 2nd and 3rd videos just to the left of the motor shed.
Old Table
New table 1
New table 2
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N
This is a close up of the gearing. I was working the flywheel a little bit back and forth to show that the gears moves a little bit left and right. I hope this doesn't cause any issues.
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Davety, many thanks for taking the time to video and upload them here. That helps me make my decision. I will replace mine with the new turntable in the coming weeks. You did great job with you Fastrack and connecting to the turntable.
-Tom
Does the Lionel PH 180 and CW 80 need a rectifier on a Atlas turntable?
Stephen G posted:Does the Lionel PH 180 and CW 80 need a rectifier on a Atlas turntable?
Yes. Both the old and new table include a bridge rectifier. The new table bridge rectifier has a switch on it. I tested my table using a CW-80.
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Tom Q Fan posted:I have Fastrack heading into roundhouse. Thin piece of Plastruct used as shim, maybe 1/16"
I have Gargraves in the round house and slight shim there too.
The "weathered" turntable:
-Tom
Hello. Thanks for your pics. I am working on installing one now. Did you use a ‘transition track piece at the end or did you cut off a regular section?
Hey Ronald, I can't speak for Tom, but on my layout I did use a Fastrack 5" transition, and simply pulled the tubular pins out, then cut back the road bed as Tom did.
Ronald, I did as David did. Used transition piece, pulled pins and notched it out. I used Gargraves inside.
-Tom
Tom Q Fan posted:Ronald, I did as David did. Used transition piece, pulled pins and notched it out. I used Gargraves inside.
-Tom
And for those following along: this method works for many of the classic Lionel accessories as well where Fastrack meets up with built in tubular; the classic Coal Ramp, as an example.
Does this new turntable match up with Lionel O gauge tubular track?
ok - stupid question of the day - why did you use a 5" transition piece instead of just notching out a regular 4.5, 5 or 10 inch piece of FT ?
Was it just for the ease of being able to pull the mating pins out rather than having to disconnect and lift the rails and remove the FT pins ?
EscapeRocks posted:Tom Q Fan posted:Ronald, I did as David did. Used transition piece, pulled pins and notched it out. I used Gargraves inside.
-Tom
And for those following along: this method works for many of the classic Lionel accessories as well where Fastrack meets up with built in tubular; the classic Coal Ramp, as an example.
And o22 turnouts
Richie C. posted:ok - stupid question of the day - why did you use a 5" transition piece instead of just notching out a regular 4.5, 5 or 10 inch piece of FT ?
Was it just for the ease of being able to pull the mating pins out rather than having to disconnect and lift the rails and remove the FT pins ?
The main reason I used the transition piece was because the end of the track roadbed has a smooth plastic end that I was able to trim down without having to add some kind of shim for support to mate it up the the spinning part of the table. I did have to shim a little outside the table. I wanted it to be firmly down on the plastic lip of the table. I hope this makes sense.
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Did someone mention here that the leads for the TRACK portion of the turntable are backwards? I am installing one and it drove me crazy for a while. I followed the instructions and kept shorting when running engine onto it. Swapped wires and it is working fine now. Pretty sure where my wiring is good. Common ground everywhere. Thanks for replying. Ron.
ronald weatherby posted:Did someone mention here that the leads for the TRACK portion of the turntable are backwards? I am installing one and it drove me crazy for a while. I followed the instructions and kept shorting when running engine onto it. Swapped wires and it is working fine now. Pretty sure where my wiring is good. Common ground everywhere. Thanks for replying. Ron.
Yes, in my post from above that has that big block of text. "Something important to note is that the power connections are switched on each of my tables. One the old one the common was to the left of the motor, on the new one it's on the right." Glad you got it figured out.
Davety posted:Richie C. posted:ok - stupid question of the day - why did you use a 5" transition piece instead of just notching out a regular 4.5, 5 or 10 inch piece of FT ?
Was it just for the ease of being able to pull the mating pins out rather than having to disconnect and lift the rails and remove the FT pins ?
The main reason I used the transition piece was because the end of the track roadbed has a smooth plastic end that I was able to trim down without having to add some kind of shim for support to mate it up the the spinning part of the table. I did have to shim a little outside the table. I wanted it to be firmly down on the plastic lip of the table. I hope this makes sense.
That makes perfect sense. I've only used FT transition pieces for my Gargraves gantry track (which had to be shimmed up about 1/4") and didn't notice a difference in the ends. Thanks.
Davety posted:ronald weatherby posted:Did someone mention here that the leads for the TRACK portion of the turntable are backwards? I am installing one and it drove me crazy for a while. I followed the instructions and kept shorting when running engine onto it. Swapped wires and it is working fine now. Pretty sure where my wiring is good. Common ground everywhere. Thanks for replying. Ron.
Yes, in my post from above that has that big block of text. "Something important to note is that the power connections are switched on each of my tables. One the old one the common was to the left of the motor, on the new one it's on the right." Glad you got it figured out.
Yes I see it now. Thanks. I thought age-related issues were taking over.
This is my first go at a turntable / roundhouse combo. I am using Fastrack on my layout. I chose to cut some pieces to fit into the turntable. I am glad I took that approach. They work really smooth.
I am also controlling the turntable motor with a TMCC amc 6-14183. You can set it to send DC current to the motor without having to install the rectifier. Seems to work fine. I can move the motor from the handheld which to me is a great thing.
Thanks again for the reply.
This is a close up of the gearing. I was working the flywheel a little bit back and forth to show that the gears moves a little bit left and right. I hope this doesn't cause any issues.
I don't own one of these turntables, but there is a good possibility I may in the near future. Watching the last video, It seems if one was to shim the worm gear to the center, that would elevate the movement and keep the belt more in line with the motor cog.
Ron and Davety, thanks for mentioning about the leads. I wonder if that is on all of them? When I connected mine I did not notice that anything was backwards. I do have limited knowledge of electronics.
-Tom
Tom,
You would know. Mine was sparking in the gap between the TT and the track. The two motor engine would stall half way in.
I sent an email to Atlas customer service about it. Maybe they will eventually update their instruction sheet.
I’m not an electrical expert but I knew something was amiss.
I really like this forum. Lots of people willing to share info. I don’t feel like I’m in this alone. I have some experience but there’s always something cropping up.
Again, Does this new turntable march up with Lionel O Gauge tubular track???
eddie g posted:Again, Does this new turntable march up with Lionel O Gauge tubular track???
Eddie, I’m using 027 track inside my roundhouse. Works fine. A little shimming where it meets the TT.
Ronald , thanks for your reply. Yes this forum is great. So many people willing to share.
-Tom
I realize this isn't the topic. Can a CW 80 be used to run the Atlas turntable with 4 or 5 legs?
Stephen G posted:I realize this isn't the topic. Can a CW 80 be used to run the Atlas turntable with 4 or 5 legs?
It would depend on the engines you're using. The CW-80 provides 80 Watts, 5 amps. So as long at the table + the engine don't exceed that, then yet you can do that. Back when I was using a CW-80, sometime I had to turn the smoke off to get it to work with the engine and consist that I was running. Depending on the engine you may have to do that with your setup as well. Another thing to consider is you can run the turning part of the table with a different power supply then you run the tracks from. Thus having 2 different power supplies for you table. You many want to have the ability to turn off those 4 or 5 legs when not in use, thus reducing the power required for engines that are just sitting there. Hope this helps.
Old topic reboot! How can I determine if old or new version of turntable? ( saw the improvements listed) Is there a different part # for newer version? Thanks Tom Weaver
This is my second attempt to post a reply. Anyway, the old version is item #6910; new is #6999.
Cheers
Bill, I was thinking the same thing, thanks for the number.
Tom
Am I correct that the old version is #6910 and the new version is #6999?
@Davety posted:Yes, that is correct.
Thanks. I just ran into "new old stock" 6910. Glad I didn't mess up and buy it.
@RLH posted:Thanks. I just ran into "new old stock" 6910. Glad I didn't mess up and buy it.
I have both of them. The main difference is the larger motor with a flywheel on the newer one. If you can get the old one for a cheaper price than I'd say go for it. But if you can afford the newer one I would suggest that.
All, thanks for the info. I have not replaced my old one yet, but hope to before fall. I am glad the new one is more robust. I rendered mine into manual mode by getting over enthusiastic in weathering it. Some of the "stuff" got underneath and eventually ground it to halt. Otherwise great turntable for the price and looked really neat when I ran it electronically.
Tom
@Davety posted:I have both of them. The main difference is the larger motor with a flywheel on the newer one. If you can get the old one for a cheaper price than I'd say go for it. But if you can afford the newer one I would suggest that.
It was $200 plus shipping. I don't think that is a good price given the new one is $299 MSRP.
Late last year, I bought the new model from an Atlas dealer for $230. At the time, Atlas had them in stock. I don't know what the current situation is.
So reading this it seems a lot of people have had time to test the 6999. Any issues that would prevent you from recommending it now that you have used it for a while?
Joe, thanks for asking. I still haven't gotten around to getting the new one. I have the older one that has become manual. The mechanics on the old one were not that sturdy. Hopefully you will hear some updates here. I still want to get the new one.
Tom
