New glue I have never seen before.

I've never heard of it. Sounds useful.   I will look for it though and try it.  Thanks.

Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive.
MSDS



Respiratory protection
Under normal use conditions, airborne exposures are not expected to be significant enough to require respiratory protection.
An exposure assessment may be needed to decide if a respirator is required. If a respirator is needed, use respirators as part of
a full respiratory protection program. Based on the results of the exposure assessment, select from the following respirator
type(s) to reduce inhalation exposure:

Sounds very useful.  Thanks David.

- Mike

Don't get me wrong it is not super glue and it does not work on all plastics but it is a great product for somebody like me. Works best on wood products. 

What are its advantages over readily available carpenter's glue for wood models?

I never use so-called super glue, for its tiny quantity at a large price. I use two

part epoxy where carpenter's glue, and plastic glue for styrene, are not appropriate.

What are its advantages over readily available carpenter's glue for wood models?

I never use so-called super glue, for its tiny quantity at a large price. I use two

part epoxy where carpenter's glue, and plastic glue for styrene, are not appropriate.

Drying time. Carpenter's glue takes a while, although if you add a teensy drop of ACC the setting time is immediate. A while back I was roped into making simple wood frames for my wife's art and used this technique. The frames have held up OK.

I've also read that a combo of Goo & ACC is quick and close to immortal

I don't know if it will work for you if you have a severe allergy to CA glues, but I product I have used in the past is made by a company called Satellite City and called UFO (User Friendly Odorless) CA glue. I used it when building some RC planes years ago. The normal types of CA glue irritate me, but I didn't have any problems using the UFO glues. They are also foam safe.

Tried the UFO glue and I react to to it it like any other CA. I have tried many others but it seems I have to avoid CA at all costs. 

Drying time. Carpenter's glue takes a while, although if you add a teensy drop of ACC the setting time is immediate.

What kind of carpenter's glue are we talking about here - yellow glue? resin glue? I use yellow glue all the time and it has a pretty short working time. I sometimes wish it was slower to tack up, especially if I am putting large surfaces together. I've never really found a use for resin glue, since it foams up and tends to expand. Yellow glue works for most of my woodworking needs. I haven't built a wood kit in a while - when I did a lot of kit building, Ambroid was the adhesive of choice. What are most people using now for wood kits? CA? Yellow glue is pretty strong, but it doesn't come in hobby size containers. I'm tempted to check out this new 3M stuff just to see how it does. 

Another great  adhesive from Michaels is Aleen's original tacky glue.  Among other applications, I use if for the last 6" of track which must remain perfectly in place at lift outs.  It is also removable.

The best aliphatic glue I have ever used is Sig Bond. After 45 years of RC flying I have never had a properly glued joint fail. I have seen my share of crashes. CA glue is brittle, doesn't sand well and is nasty to breath but it is great for hardening screw threads in wood. Other than that….

Years ago I used Ambroid orange cellulose type glue for wood models. Many of those are returning to kit form now as the glue fails. I think the current Ambroid is different.

I switched to yellow carpenters glue and had no problems except for slower setup time. For the past few years I have been using Aleens Quick Dry Tacky glue. Its surprising strong, maybe stronger that the original tacky glue and dries clear. No failures yet and some of these structures get carted around for use on my portable modules. The 3M product shown by the OP sounds like its similar to Aleens Quick Dry.

Pete

Lots of changes in paints and glues.

We are using water-based glue for aircraft fabric - the old stuff was a lot like Ambroid.  My very informal tests show dramatically increased strength for the new water-based contact cement.  I am sure there is a hardware store equivalent at five bucks a pint - we pay $150 a quart.  Goes a long way, but has a short shelf life.

I have found that CA type glues (ie super-glue) do not stand up well to shear pressures.    They work well for applications where vertical, push-pull forces are applied.    By shear, if I bump a detail part that is super-glued sideways, it generally pops off.

For Plastics I use a plastic solvent type glue.   Ambroid makes a very good one that works with both ABS and Styrene.    Some only work with one or the other.   Another good one is Tenax 7.

I have used wood glue for models and had the same problem, it takes for ever to set up.   I think this new find which seems to be a craft type glue sounds pretty good for wood.    

For high strenght on larger piece where the joint is not so visiable, I used 2-part epoxy or contact cement.

Nice job on the sand house!

I feel the same way. I've never had much luck with super glues; only in very limited conditions have any of them ever worked at all for me.

Always good to have a referral to another type of glue to add to the collection - will give this a try.