New Legacy SD70ACe Front Headlight Does Not Light Up <Update March 16 - FIXED! Picture added.>

are you using command control?  push the aux2 button.  cab1 or cab2.

Look for LOOSE WIRES!!!

 

Andrew

I am using Legacy and can't find a button for the headlights, if there is one. Also, since the rear headlight works fine, it wouldn't appear that this is a control setting issue.

 

Andrew, et al -

I just looked at the bottom of the engine to remove the body and look for a loose wire, but I can't tell which screws to remove. I looked at the manual, but unlike the MTH manuals that show which screws to remove to replace bulbs, the Lionel manual simply states that the bulbs and LED's should be replaced by an authorized repair person.

 

Are there any guides that show how the Lionel SD70ACe's bodies come off?

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Alex

Have you tried this?

In friendly terms the forum is letting you know that pushing the aux2 bottom turns the headlight on and off on most Lionel engines.

Almost bet that that's what it is too.  Somehow it may have inadvertently been turned off.  Hope so.

 

Ken

Is it the head light or ditch lights.because my new CN dash-9 with legacy ditch lights stop working to.sent it back to lionel for repair and got it back in less then 2 weeks.there been a few post with same problem. you can control head light with aux 2 or 1 but not ditch lights.

On my Legacy Conrail 4120, AUX2 turns off the headlights and the ditch lights.

 

Did you look in the manual and do the reset procedure for the engine?  I had a problem with the above named engine and a reset restored it's marbles.

Alex,

 

As stated by the guy's above the AUX-2 button turns on and off the headlights. If the reverse light works I don't think this is the problem. The reverse light would also be off.

 

I have the same engine, when I first got it the Ditch lights worked intermittently. I found the wires loose. I just pushed them into the connections a little further and they haven't given me a problem since.

 

I would take the shell off and check for a loose wire. The shell is not to difficult to get off. I did this last year so my memory is a little foggy. I remember there are four screws on the corners of the chassis and, (this is where it gets foggy), there are I think two or four more screws around the speaker housing that need to come off in order to remove the shell. I just boxed mine up on Sunday to store it away for the season as I took down my Christmas layout for this year. Or I would look for you. You can figure it out. Believe me it's not that difficult.

 

Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.

 

Mike R

I have that engine, it is my favorite horn so far next to the AEC GEEP.

But to the issue. If the backup light is on, then it isn't an AUX 2 issue because if I hit AUX 2 the head light and backup light turn off. Just thought I would share. However, it is good to know AUX 2 turns the head light on and off. Also a reset sounds like a good idea

That is correct: Aux-2 turns the headlights ON/OFF - and this applies to both the FRONT and the REAR headlights.

 

When I start the engine and then switch direction to Reverse, the rear headlights turn ON just fine. Press Aux-2, and they turn OFF. Press Aux-2 again, and they turn back ON. Change direction to forward, and the front headlights are OFF.

 

What screws do I take off to remove the body and look inside?

 

Thx!

 

Alex

Try reprograming it the base it may help.  I had light issues on 2 of my BNSF Dash 9s.  1 was fixed with reinstalling to the base using set and run switch.  The second on had to be sent back and Lionel had to reprogram the engine.  I would try and see if Lionel will fix it for free prior to opening it.

I would like to try that. How do I do it?

(Looked in the engine manual and the Legacy manual and could not find how to do a reset.)

 

Thx!

 

Alex

If your locomotive is unresponsive to your commands in the TrainMaster Command Control environment, we recommend that you follow this procedure to reset your locomotive.

1. Slide the Command reverse unit switch to the PGM position.

2. Plug in and connect your Command Base.

3. Place your locomotive on the track, then power up the track.

4. PressENG and enter the locomotive’s ID#.

5. PressSET.

6. PressENG and enter the locomotive’s ID# again.

7. PressAUX1.

8. Enter2 for this particular locomotive.

9. Turn off track power and wait ten seconds.

10. Slide the Command reverse unit switch back to the RUN position.

At this point, your locomotive has been reset. Restore power to the track and operate the locomotive as usual. Be sure to use the ID# entered in Step 4.

 

If that dosnt work then look for the screws.

Exactly what Patrick H said.  That's what Lionel told me to do with the Legacy system.

 

If it still doesn't work I would contact them and have it sent in first prior to tinkering with it.  I can't see the bulb being out or not plugged in properly since it is an LED.  I also have a SD70ACe which is one of my top favorite engines besides my GE Hybrid and AC6000.  Lionel can reprogram the R2LC in which is what they had to do with my one BNSF Dash 9. At least that's what the invoice said when I got it back from them.  Didn't cost me a thing and they even covered shipping.  They were going to make me pay and I was like have your Chinese Manufacturing shop pay for it since they screwed it up in the first place not me.  Then they sent me an RA and a UPS tag .  Problem solved.

Well, I followed Patrick's steps. (Thanks, Patrick!)

 

• After completing Step 5 the horn sounded. I believe this is OK

• After Step 7 the screen displayed did not have numbers, so I scrolled to get the numbers and pressed #2.

• Completed the rest of the steps, but the front headlight still is off.

 

Repeated the routine, but had the same result.

 

I'll call Lionel and see what they say before I go looking for loose wires , and I'll post again with my progress.

 

Thanks a lot for your time and interest!

 

Alex

While on the phone with one of Lionel's technicians yesterday discussing my Challenger, I asked him about the front headlight on the SD70ACe.

 

He said it could be a bad LED, or a loose wire. He also mentioned a potential problem with the output of one of the chips.

 

I asked him about removing the shell to look for loose wire. He said that removing the shell is not a problem. However, putting it back on is very difficult because of several wires (I think he said six wires) that have to be routed just right or they would interfere with the flywheel.

 

Has anyone had any experienced with this; that is, removing the shell of an SD70ACe or similar engine? What do you think?

 

Thx!

 

Alex

I'm guessing the six wires are the ones that go to the headlamp and marker lamps. I've not opened up an SD 70 but I have opened a legacy gp7 which is probably worse due to the fact its a a smaller locomotive with a similar amount of components. Remove the necessary screws from the bottom,hold it together and upright it, then carefully remove the shell.I usually try to have something nearly as tall as the loco to set the shell on when I remove it, this allows me to set it down without pulling on the wires. Go slow and pay attention to where things are for when you replace the shell. On my gp7 the shell could not be fully removed until the wire harnesses at either end were unplugged, this was obvious when I began to raise the shell,this may not be the case with your SD-70. Take your time and be patient ( given your VL challenger thread it appears you have plenty of patience) you should be fine. I had a steamer with a loose wiring harness going to the headlight causing it not to work plugged it in further and it works fine. Remember! a 19 year old chinese girl probably put that loco together,from scratch!

Thank you, Rick - I'll give it a try.-

  

Alex

On a number of locomotives, I've ended up using Duct Tape to secure the wires to the shell and route them where I want them to put it back together.  Sometimes when you take the shell off, the wires are everywhere!

Send it back. Let Lionel take a look at it. My 2 cts.

One key piece of information I failed to say is where I bought this diesel engine: Walther’s. I emailed and them and they called me yesterday and offered to replace the engine at no cost to me; ship it back to them, insured, and they would reimburse my credit card for this cost. Good deal!

 

But on a subsequent call today they apologetically told me that they did not have any more of these engines in stock. Therefore, I have two options: I can return the engine to them for full refund, including the shipping, or I could have it repaired elsewhere, but at my cost. This Legacy SD70Ace cost me only $325 (MSRP $500), including shipping, and I do not believe I can get something similar for this price elsewhere.

 

I looked at the O-Gauge engines they have in stock, and the only two they have at a good price that would interest me are Lionel’s Legacy AC6000 UP and SF at $550 (MSRP $700). Unfortunately, I already have both.

 

Walther’s recommended taking it to a Lionel Authorized Dealer / repair station, but based on the comments I have heard from a couple of the hobby shop owners regarding people who buy stuff online, I would not be inclined to have them work on my engine.

 

. . . and so I called Lionel.

 

They told me to ship it to them and they would fix it under warranty at no cost – all I have to pay is for shipping it to them, which is fine with me. You see, just driving to the closest LHS (62 miles roundtrip) and then back to pick the engine up would cost me more in gas than the shipping to Lionel. Besides, Lionel has already paid return shipping on my Vision Challenger, twice, and I am happy with their practices and customer service.

 

Just thought you may like to know –

 

Alex

I recently sent my new PARR T-1 Lionmaster back to Lionel, they turned it around pretty quickly and fixed both issues it had. 

You are right, John -

 

I just received an email from them letting me know that they have fixed and shipped the Challenger back to me, and I just shipped it to them last week. I'll post details on the Challenger on the other thread I already have started for it.

 

Alex

They must be busy beavers out there at Lionel.

Yesterday I received the SD70ACe back from Lionel. Now the front headlights work fine. The rear hadlights, however, are by far brighter than the front, but that is fine with me.

 

This Legacy SD70ACe engine's horn sounds exactly as the real ones. I mean exactly. We live about a mile from NS and UP tracks, there are three grade crossing within hearing distance, and several times a day we can hear the diesel engine horns. When I blow the '= = o =' sequence, my wife cannot tell whether it is the real thing or the Legacy engine, if she is upstairs.

 

Very pleased with this engine!

 

Alex

 

Been watching your post.This is how a problem should be takin care of.Both from where you bought it and Lionel.Enjoy.

 

Hey Alex I believe on my 8444 the rear are much brighter than the front also. But I think the front are yellow and the rear are white. I'm not at home to check. But I beleive that was why the brightness seemed so different. Well that was my assumption when I got it. Glad to hear yours is working.

Also, to your horn comment.  I agree 100%. Sounds spot on. That is why it is one of my favorite horns (as I mentioned earlier in this thread).

One wonders why they'd use different colored LED's on either end, that sounds pretty low-class to me.

John - not sure why, but as far as looks goes. The engine looks great and maybe the different colors are more accurate or maybe cheaper? Doubt it though or maybe an artistic choice.
Either way great engine.
Happy railroading

"But I think the front are yellow and the rear are white."

 

Yes, you are correct. Evidently, this is how they are supposed to be.

   

 

 

Thx!

Alex

Wow, those are some great pics. Love your layout. Wish I could get my 8444 on a bigger layout than my 4x8.

But I think the front are yellow and the rear are white."

 

Yes, you are correct. Evidently, this is how they are supposed to be.

 

 

 

But why?

That would be my question.   I've never seen that done on any other locomotive.

So, did Lionel tell you what it took to get it working? Bum LED, loose connector, rubbed wire, etc.? Would be interesting to know what happened.

Breezeinup-

The Walther's price for this engine was among a several other O-Gauge special sale items they offered a few weeks ago. It may have been the last one (or two) they had, and it was by far they best buy among all the special sale items.

 

When I contacted them with the headlight problem, they immediately replied that they would replace the engine right away, and to phone them for a call-tag and RA number. When I called them, they apologized because they had no more of these engines. They offered to reimburse my cost, but that would have left me without the engine at a very good price, indeed. I contacted Lionel, and the rest is history.

 

Mitch-

The Fix, according to the tech's report, was to repair/replace the front lighting PCB.

 

John, et al-

Yellow vs. Bright White? No clue!

 

Thx -

 

Alex