When ever I go over a switch with my new k4 the uncoupler opens. None of my other legacy or any other engines does this. Is there a solution to this and thanks for any help.
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First thing I'd do is lube the coupler with some dry lube. I use graphite, but it is messy. Many times the friction on the latch is sufficient with a load to gradually work the coupler open if there's any friction inside.
Originally Posted by ironlake2:
When ever I go over a switch with my new k4 the uncoupler opens. None of my other legacy or any other engines does this. Is there a solution to this and thanks for any help.
What kind of switch. Sometimes when the roller pickups go over the frog or simply run over the different rails of a switch they create a slight electrical charge. This is sometimes enough to trigger the electrocoupler.
it is a gargraves switch. I am temped to super glue the knuckle in as I use the lionel up aux tender in front of the train and I can uncouple from it. I have tried powder lube and it did nothing. is there a chance the capacitor on the legacy board went bad? The engine did not do this for the 1st few months of running. thanksguys for you answers.
Is the coupler "firing", or being pulled open by the train the loco is pulling? Have you tried running the loco by itself to determine if its "firing".
If its being pulled open I believe this has come up on the forum before, you may want to try a search.
If the spring in the coupler is weak it will not hold it closed. The solution was to take the coupler apart and remove the spring, stretch in out a bit and reinstall.
I can try that except how do you remove the pin without cutting it. The knuckle pin has to be removed to get at the pin and the spring behind it right? I used to have some knuckle pins and knuckle springs, will have to check and see unless you have a good method to remove the knuckle pin without damaging it. thanks for you answer.
You have to cut the knuckle rivet and use a new one to disassemble the knuckle. Try lubricating it first, because a little friction in there can allow them to work their way open as you run.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
You have to cut the knuckle rivet and use a new one to disassemble the knuckle. Try lubricating it first, because a little friction in there can allow them to work their way open as you run.
By the time you do that you could have just replaced the coupler. Much easier in my opinion.
On some tenders or locomotives that is true. On some, it's a bit of a PITA to get to the coupler to remove it from the truck.
However, I can cut the rivet, stretch or replace the spring, and rivet the coupler again in a couple of minutes. My cost is the 8-10 cents for the new rivet. I'll gladly race you replacing the coupler to fixing the existing coupler. 
I can't imagine the resistance to lubricating the coupler, since that is a frequent cure. 
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
On some tenders or locomotives that is true. On some, it's a bit of a PITA to get to the coupler to remove it from the truck.
However, I can cut the rivet, stretch or replace the spring, and rivet the coupler again in a couple of minutes. My cost is the 8-10 cents for the new rivet. I'll gladly race you replacing the coupler to fixing the existing coupler.
I can't imagine the resistance to lubricating the coupler, since that is a frequent cure.
Not everyone can replace the rivet. Like I said. Replacing the coupler might be a lot easier.
??? Electro-coupler???
(1.) I'd try something as simple as reversing the two leads that go to the coupler.
(2.) There were some threads about adding a non-polarized capacitor,
(1 microfarad), across the coupler leads also. I have had success with both approaches to this problem.
(3.) If it doesn't work then you can start the rip-and-tear work.
I could be wrong and often
Mike CT
I've been told by Jon Z. that the Legacy stuff already has transient protection and it would be detrimental to add the cap across the coupler. To date, all my Legacy coupler issues have been mechanical, not so for TMCC where the cap has helped several of them.
as long as I use the lionel UP auxiliary tender with remote control front and rear couplers, I just put a drop of super glue in the close knuckle and presto no more coupler problem. On this engine I just hit number 45 for the tender and front coupler button and I am uncoupled. I use this tender on the passenger train as some of my engines do not have coil couplers but I can always remote uncouple them. A drop of acetone in the knuckle with a push of the knuckle and it is free again.
