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First off, I'd like to say hello to everyone and introduce myself. I'm Adam, and I live in East TN, Greeneville to be exact. My story starts with my Father getting a Marx 666 train when he was a child in the 50s. He kept the engine and cars all these years, for their sentimental value and he fondly mentioned them from time to time. The track and transformer had been lost sometime through the years. A few years ago we started looking for a decent set, but due to being rather poor we never found a set we felt comfortable buying.(Dad makes less than $12,000 a year and I'm disabled, but unable to draw anything.) Fast forward to a month ago, we were at a local antique store and there it was! A nice Marx 666 engine with a sound tender, 3 boxcars and a caboose. Also in the box was enough track to make a large oval and a 50 watt transformer. It was only $75 and looked like it was almost new. We discussed it for 2 days before going back to buy it. Once set up, it ran great, but it doesn't smoke very well. Dad got out his old train and cleaned up all his cars and I read up online about where to grease, oil, and clean everything in the engine. His beat up old one is faster and smokes better than the one we bought! Now we had 2 running engines, 2 tenders 11 cars and one caboose and one rolling frame, since his caboose had been damaged. We turned the frame into a small wooden high-sided gondola. It's nothing fancy, but it's another car.  We both got hooked on running the train, so we found some more track on a popular auction site and bought it along with a Marx 100 watt transformer. Then after a third trip to the antique store, we came back with a Lionel 8800 engine, complete with tender, 4 cars, caboose, track and 50 watt transformer. Then I found an illuminated caboose at auction really cheap (less than $10 including shipping). I've been doing a lot of research online, but I'm having trouble finding answers to a lot of the questions Dad and I have, so I joined the forum in hopes of getting answers from some of the veteran "engineers". So, that's my story, sorry it was so long, but I'm really excited to have people to tell, since none of my friends care about trains.

 

Like I mentioned, dad and I are poor, but the idea is to just spend a little here and there, to slowly work toward a nice layout. We've set aside my old bedroom at dad's house for the layout. Right now it's looking like it will be 4x8 on opposite walls, connected at the end of the room by two 24 inch bridges. One of the 4x8s will have a smaller track running inside the large track so we can run two trains at once.

 

Now, for a few questions...

When it comes to different brands of cars, such as Lionel, MTH, etc., will most knuckle couplers work with each other, or would it be best to stick with only one brand's cars? The illuminated caboose is larger than all my other Lionel and Marx cars. I know Marx trains aren't really to scale, but are there differences in the Lionel O's?  What about the other manufacturers? Also, which brand can usually be found for the least amount of money?

 

My second question in about power and number of cars. The Marx 666 can pull quite a few cars at once with no problems, but the Lionel 8800 isn't as strong, even though it seems to be the same size engine. I'm interested in a steamer that can pull 10 or more cars easily, can anyone recommend one from any company that has that kind of power and can be bought used or new for $100 or so? I know trains are expensive now, so I'm not expecting a lot of options. I've been looking at the Marx 333 and the lionel turbine engines with the 6-8-6 configuration. I also like the torpedo trains and I like smoke, but it's not a necessity. So, can anyone point me toward anything that might fit that? Dad is interested in diesels, but he wants one that looks like the Norfolk Southern trains that come through here (I forgot to mention, both our homes are within 150 yards or so of tracks). So, I'm open to one of those too.

 

Next question, Other an ease of setup and looks, is there any real advantage to  the newer track systems from Lionel or MTH? We have quite a lot of vintage 027, so unless there's a reason, I probably won't upgrade to modern track any time soon. I do intend to make a layout at my house in the near future and have considered modern track for that, if there's an advantage.

 

My last question for today is, Do we need to invest in a better transformer or are the older ones OK for now? If so, what's a good modern option that will reliably run the older trains?

 

Any help on these questions is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!

 

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"Now, for a few questions...

When it comes to different brands of cars, such as Lionel, MTH, etc., will most knuckle couplers work with each other, or would it be best to stick with only one brand's cars?"

 

I have found most Knuckle couplers work with each other.

 

 

on another note you are close to my friend (he goes by the name Happy) here, Sevierville, TN 3950 Newport hwy. look him up, he has plenty of knowledge of old trains.

Last edited by bigdodgetrain

"Next question, Other an ease of setup and looks, is there any real advantage to  the newer track systems from Lionel or MTH? We have quite a lot of vintage 027, so unless there's a reason, I probably won't upgrade to modern track any time soon. I do intend to make a layout at my house in the near future and have considered modern track for that, if there's an advantage."

 

another friend has built a pretty new layout using this track with no issues.

Originally Posted by Adam4378:

Now, for a few questions...

 

I can address a couple of them, at least.

 

When it comes to different brands of cars, such as Lionel, MTH, etc., will most knuckle couplers work with each other...?

 

In a word, yes.  I have Lionel, Atlas, MTH and probably other cars running on my layout.  They all couple together.  The Lionel knuckle coupler is a sort of de facto standard.

 

Marx used several different types of couplers, and I doubt that any of them mate with Lionel knuckle couplers.

 

 I know Marx trains aren't really to scale, but are there differences in the Lionel O's?

 

Yes, there are.  There's 027, there's "Traditional" O (neither of which are actually scale) and there's "Standard O," which is Scale in Lionelspeak.  They can all run together (though not all scale equipment is going to be happy on 027 curves), but they'll look a bit odd when mixed.

 

 What about the other manufacturers?

 

I don't have a lot of experience with other makers, but I know there are other non-scale O gauge trains out there.

 

Also, which brand can usually be found for the least amount of money?

 

That depends on where you're buying it.  I'm not trying to be clever -- there's no hard and fast answer to that question.  The only real advice I can give is to be patient, keep looking in as many places as possible, and you'll eventually find bargains.

 

I've been looking at the Marx 333 and the lionel turbine engines with the 6-8-6 configuration.

 

I don't know much about Marx locomotives, but the Lionel turbines (they're not scale, BTW) are good pullers and very rugged.  If you decide to get one, be sure and examine it for wear.  I learned that lesson the hard way years ago, when I foolishly bought one that looked good on the outside but was terminally worn out on the inside.  A good one, if kept properly lubricated and maintained, will last forever.

 

Lionel postwar 2-6-4s (2026 and 2037) are also plentiful, durable and inexpensive.

 

Next question, Other an ease of setup and looks, is there any real advantage to  the newer track systems from Lionel or MTH? We have quite a lot of vintage 027, so unless there's a reason, I probably won't upgrade to modern track any time soon. I do intend to make a layout at my house in the near future and have considered modern track for that, if there's an advantage.

 

The advantage is strictly a matter of taste.  I personally like and use FasTrack, but it's not a requirement.  And it's expensive.

 

My last question for today is, Do we need to invest in a better transformer or are the older ones OK for now? If so, what's a good modern option that will reliably run the older trains?

 

Postwar transformers are fine if they're in good shape.  Examine the cords on whatever postwar transformers you now have or intend to get.  If they're worn out or if the insulation is brittle, put new cords in them before plugging them in.  Other than that, as long as they work and they're not internally damaged, they're fine.

 

I have a Lionel 1033 transformer that I got in 1951, and all I've ever done to it is install a new cord.  My layout (scale but conventional-only) runs from a 1957 Lionel KW, and the accessories are powered by a couple of assorted small Lionel transformers that I got for five bucks or less at train shows.  The small ones needed new cords, but they're working fine.

 

If you want to get into command control, things get more complicated.  But that's not what you seem to be describing in your post.

 

Hope that's useful information.

 

Thanks for the replies so far. I've already learned more here than I was able to find out doing searches. you guys are helping me greatly.  When it comes to the Marx trains, Dad and I don't mind  sticking with just Marx cars with the twist couplers. Also, there don't seem to be any Marx engines bigger than their 333/1829, so unless there's one I don't know about, I'm really interested in other brands when it comes to more wheels and more power. As for Scale with other brands, I guess the Lionel illuminated caboose I got is quite a bit off compared to my other Lionel cars, but I'm not against buying bigger cars or mixing them a bit if I get a good deal, as long as they can run on 027.

 

Since there are different "O-scales"when it comes to the trains and cars, what can I go by when buying online at auction or otherwise, if it doesn't say which size O scale  it is and the seller doesn't know anything about the engine/car they are selling? 

Welcome Adam 4378. Your questions have been well addressed by others by I have added a couple of comments below.  My best advice is: all people have opinions and they tend to color their advice, to hang out hear and read a lot and you will quickly absorb a lot of good info.  
 
Originally Posted by Adam4378:

Now, for a few questions...

When it comes to different brands of cars, such as Lionel, MTH, etc., will most knuckle couplers work with each other.  YES, BUT AS YOU OBSERVE, SOME CARS ARE "LARGER" (SCALE) THAN OTHERS AND WHILE THEY COUPLE TOGETHER FINE, THEY MAY NOT LOOK GOOD TOGETHER. 

 

Next question, Other an ease of setup and looks, is there any real advantage to  the newer track systems from Lionel or MTH? We have quite a lot of vintage 027, so unless there's a reason, I probably won't upgrade to modern track any time soon. I do intend to make a layout at my house in the near future and have considered modern track for that, if there's an advantage.  THERE IS PROBABLY NOT ENOUGH OF A REASON TO USE ANY NEW TRACK THAT YOU HAVE TO BUY IF YOU HAVE A LOT OF OLD.  TRY TO CLEAN IT WELL AND DON'T USE ANY PIECE THAT LOOKS THE LEAST BIT RUSTY OR BENT.  OLD TRACK, AND FASTRACK, BEING HOLLOW, TENDS TO MAKE MORE NOISE THAN MODERN SOLID RAIL TRACKS (E.G, ATLAS, SOME OTHERS).  SO I RECOMMEND YOU PUT DOWN A HALF-INCH OF CONSTRUCTION INSULATING FOAM ATOP THE BENCHWORK BEFORE MOUNTING THE TRACK. 

 

My last question for today is, Do we need to invest in a better transformer or are the older ones OK for now? If so, what's a good modern option that will reliably run the older trains?  IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING THAT WORKS, USE IT NOW AND WAIT TO SPEND MONEY UNTIL YOU KNOW YOUR PRIORITIES.  THIS IS MY BIGGEST ADVICE, NOT JUST FOR TRANSFORMERS BUT EVERYTHING: WORK TO USE WHAT YOU HAVE AND HAVE FUN WITH IT, AND LEARN WHAT YOU LIKE AND WHY, BEFORE JUMPING IN AND SPENDING MONEY.  YOUR INTERESTS AND TASTES MAY EVOLVE A GOOD DEAL RATHER QUICKLY AS YOU LEARN ABOUT MODERN STUFF THAT IS AVAILABLE.  

 

Any help on these questions is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!

 

 

Hi Adam, welcome to the forum .

 

 Whenever you have a question or just want to learn about toy trains, this is the first/ best place to go. Here's a couple links to other sites that I think are helpful for the beginner, hope they help....

 

http://www.silogic.com/trains/layout.html

 

 

http://www.lionel.com/GettingStartedVideos/

 

 

http://www.trainz.com/t-track-plans-ideas.aspx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Welcome Adam - and to an enjoyable hobby. I've been happy with a layout based solely on tubular 027 track - and 027 curves - for many, many years. I also use transformers that date from the 1940s that were refurbished in the 1980s. They operate perfectly and simply with wires to a lock-on on sections of the track that are physically disconnected with each other. This lets me run a few trains at the same time. There are all sorts of other ways to do this too. 

 

As you noted, you can certain run shorter engines and cars without difficulty. Use what you have - you can always change it later.

Last edited by Doug Murphy
Originally Posted by Adam4378:

Since there are different "O-scales"when it comes to the trains and cars, what can I go by when buying online at auction or otherwise, if it doesn't say which size O scale  it is and the seller doesn't know anything about the engine/car they are selling? 

You can check the manufacturer's web site if they have one.  For example, http://www.mthtrains.com/ has dimensions and minimum curve diameter under the features tab for motive power and dimensions for rolling stock.

 

You can always check here.  You might be surprised how quickly you get a response to just about any question.

Originally Posted by Adam4378:

Thanks for the replies so far. I've already learned more here than I was able to find out doing searches. you guys are helping me greatly.  When it comes to the Marx trains, Dad and I don't mind  sticking with just Marx cars with the twist couplers.

 

Many people happily collect and run Marx trains.  As long as you're aware that there haven't been any new ones in quite some time, you're good to go.

 

As for Scale with other brands, I guess the Lionel illuminated caboose I got is quite a bit off compared to my other Lionel cars

 

Without the number of your illuminated caboose to identify it, we can't really tell.

 

Since there are different "O-scales"when it comes to the trains and cars, what can I go by when buying online at auction or otherwise, if it doesn't say which size O scale  it is and the seller doesn't know anything about the engine/car they are selling? 

 

Be careful, there.  027 and "Traditional O" aren't scales, though many people use the term "O scale" very loosely.  It's not just nitpicking -- if you're actually looking for a 1:48 scale boxcar, for example, you'll likely be disappointed if you end up with a Lionel 6464 boxcar or something similar.  Likewise, if what you really seek are some smaller 027 cars for your layout, you don't want to pay the higher prices for true scale equipment.  Know what you're buying before any money changes hands.

 

Generally, manufacturers' websites will tell you which of their products are actually scale and which are not.  As for postwar Lionel "Traditional O" and 027, there are online references, like this one:

 

http://www.postwarlionel.com/

 

Originally Posted by Adam4378:

Now, for a few questions...

 

Also, which brand can usually be found for the least amount of money?

 

This hobby can be done on a budget, you just need to do some shopping and be willing to buy used. The Williams (by Bachmann) engines tend to be the most affordable. They have some very good prices, even for brand new. Rolling stock Williams, Lionel O27, MTH Railking and Menards all have fairly affordable options. The Menards trains are very nice and quite a bit cheaper than other brand new offerings. Look out for deals in the classifieds here as well. I have found a deal or two that were very good deals.

Last edited by Goshawk

Adam,

 

Haven't noticed anyone comment on this yet, but you will need keep a particular "feature" of your Marx 666 engines in mind as you expand the empire over time - the 666, like other early Marx engines, has the infamous Marx "fat wheel" driver.  The gear teeth on the inside of one or more drive wheels are flush with the outer edge of the wheel flange, requiring a lot more inside side rail clearance than Lionel or any other brand loco.  Not a problem as long as you continue using tubular track with Marx switches and crossovers (all the Marx stuff should be compatible with their early fat wheel locos), but a big issue if you start adding most Lionel switches (1121 Lionel switches are a working option), crossovers, operating tracks, etc. into the loop.  You'll soon find yourself launching the 666's when the fat drivers don't have the required rail clearance on non-Marx track switches/sections/accessories. 

 

The reverse is also somewhat common - Lionel and any other brand locos can have issues running through Marx switches, etc.  The problem is the increased clearance for the fat wheel on switches allows some locos enough slop to pick the points and derail, or the center power roller to fall in the wide gap and catch, forcing the loco, caboose, lighted car, whatever right off the track.

 

As always, there are work-arounds, but many will result in parking the 666's.  If it were me, I'd keep a loop/area compatible for Marx, and as expansion opportunities present, add a loop or more compatible to everything else.

 

Google "Marx fat wheel" for more info.

Last edited by GPJ
Originally Posted by GPJ:

 

 

Google "Marx fat wheel" for more info.

 Luckily, both the 666 engines I have are not the fat wheel versions, mine have the dual gear reduction. From what I've read, the fat wheels were mostly, if not all, prewar. I do appreciate you mentioning this, since it is important.

 

Also, Thanks to everyone for the help so far. I also appreciate the welcome I've gotten. I'll be spending a lot of time on this forum!

  Even though it may help You don't have to be rich to have fun   

 Marx will be a great low cost focus. They didn't offer as big a variety. I think there are only one or two, cast metal steamers. The majority are tin, or later on, plastic body engines. They were made more often as toys, not "models", but that's also one of reasons I like them.

 

 0-27 will limit your locos more than cars really. A Berkshire, or Hudson will be about as big as you can go I think. The main issue with 0-27 will be the turnouts. The body mounted fuel/air tanks or boxes on non steam, or center of long cars, may hit the housing for the switch motor as you take the curved section, but these housings can be trimmed down to help.

 Some couplers, or pilot sections may not swing enough for 0-27, and some long rollers made for 0-31 curves may fall off the center rail.

  A PW(post war) Lionel engine will have three digits if its O gauge, four digits if its 0-27, but some are just "twins" with different numbers, but exactly the same parts. 

 If you ask here before you buy, you will likely get a quick answer.

 

 The twist coupler is Marx only.

  Many will take a car and adapt one style coupler to each end of the car or change just one truck,etc..  This transition car can be used to link the two styles on one train. 

 Lionel used a few different couplers too, but "the lobster claw" is the PW norm. Sometimes different brands of "claws" work together fine, sometimes they "need love".

 

 Keep an eye open for a good deal on a bigger power supply, and ignore the little ones. You have enough little ones. Power is one of the things you shouldn't skimp on. You will need it for some bigger locos. Buy "right" ASAP to save money in the long run. Learn about how to look inside one quickly(Lionel=4 screws, lift) to check winding & rollers (bigger units).

  Before you use two transformers together learn about "phasing" two transformers. (Lionel has an excellent video on youtube). Its easy, my Grandfather walked me thru it by phone a few time when I was a young kid.

 Nothing smaller than a 1033 at 90W is worth while IMHO. A KW runs two. A VW is very nice, the ZW is king . The big 100w Marx seems weaker than 90w 1033s to me.

 Many of the old Marx transformers have no circuit breaker. Get one! or use a fuse between it and the track! A power strip with a built in breaker is a good idea too.

   

Gauge is the width between the rails and we all pretty much run O gauge, except the On30(uses HO track with O scale as narrow gauge), S gauge, and some others. 

 

Scale will vary from 1:43 to 1:64, but "American O scale" is 1:48.

O-27 is "semi-scale", it is a bit smaller. I've heard it described as 1:64, 1:54, and 1:58, but have never done any measuring since being right on scale, is of little concern to me .

Selective compression- Scale of things you use may vary. Use the big things close to you, and the small things further away to form a sense of distance, to keep peoples focus that, and not on the size difference. 

 

 A cheap way to one whistle for everything, would be a stand alone whistle shack, billboard, or station by Lionel/Marx, or American Flyer.

 

 Nice to hear your not afraid to build your own stuff. Even if its done as a toy, to me, that's real model railroading 

 Save those bread ties, popsicle sticks, stir sticks, skewers, and chopsticks to name a few. Have you done paper mache? Just use a white glue recipe to make it last longer.

 Best place to find ground cover, is on the ground outside. 

 

 

 Lousy photo, but the only one I have of this. Here are two old trucks, a safety pin for door handles, stickers from a toy, some scrap wood, water colors, and a marker. Good enough for my layout

 

bashboxmicenrr_zps4a3235e5

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Welcome Adam,

 

Using a newer track at this time would not be wise. Lionel's Fastrack is expensive and needs to follow a track plan to the letter. Find somebody who has the newer track first and ask questions about it then make an informed decision about buying any new track.

Just use some of the better looking track you already have.

There are several companies that make track; Lionel, MTH, Atlas, Williams, RMT, Gargraves, and Ross Custom switches. The last two I mentioned sell only track.

 

Lee Fritz

I forgot about the wheels!.

 Some Marx parts (flanges? or slide pickup?) might sit lower than Lionel locos and the will have to have speed to go across the "solid", black Lionel uncoupling tracks.

 I have Marx plastic 0-27 manual turnouts, and Lionel loco wheel flanges wont make it trough them without a derail.

 I haven't done a good look as to why the Marx "bump". I kind of assume its the Marx pickup is lower, or the Fat Wheel doesn't fit by the "eye shape" on that track. I had thought Lionel had deeper flanges from the derails on Marx, but now I've discovered my Marx bump on the Lionel uncoupling tracks, so I'm not 100% sure till I investigate further.

 Marx locos can only go straight through my lionel 0-27 turnouts, & only if the fat wheel is kept on the uncut rail side of the turnouts "straight through section".(green light

Originally Posted by Nicks Trains:

Adam4378, Welcome to the forum. Do you have an email account? I (and others may) wish to email you. Thanks,

Nickstrains.

 

P.S. You will never regret joining this forum.

Thanks! I do have an email account, sorry I hadn't listed it in my profile yet, It should now be listed. Just in case, It's RamrodHare@gmail.com for anyone wishing to email me.

 

You guys just keep adding helpful information! I'm really amazed at how much I'm learning here. I just want everyone to know, I want to thank each of you for taking the time to provide answers and comments. 

 

I've been sharing the information with my Dad, but he seems more interested in just running the trains! It's great to see him enjoying something. He used to hunt, fish, camp, etc. but he never feels like doing those things anymore, so being able to spend time with him running trains is great, for both of us.

 

In a bit of sad news, today while he was reaching for the power switch on the surge protector, he stepped on the corner of our non-lighted Lionel caboose. (That corner had a bend and a small stress crack when we bought it, but he hadn't taken the time to inspect it with his glasses on yet, so he had never noticed it.) He just barely grazed the corner enough to cause it to tip over, but now he's convinced he damaged it and no matter how many times I assure him it was already like that, he still feels bad about it, which has made me feel bad for him. It has showed us that we need to hustle on getting everything started on the layout.

 

I really want to get everything off the floor, but until we get the spare room ready, we don't have anywhere for everything. (Dad's a "collector" of items that "might come in handy someday", so the house is packed with stuff he doesn't want to part with). While I'm not as bad, I have learned that when you think something is trash and you throw it away, you find a use for it the next day. I'm amazed that I ever got him talked into cleaning out a room for the trains in the first place. LOL

 

I know there's going to be a ton of stuff I'll need help with as we work on the layout. I do have a few more questions that I thought of today.

 

I'm familiar with electronics, so I know that a transformer is going to produce some heat with use, but how hot is too hot?  All our transformers have good cords and no external damage. The Marx 100 watt , with built in circuit breaker, (connected to a surge protector/power strip, with a breaker and a power switch) gets really warm/hot to the touch after about 30 minutes. It's not burn your hand hot, but it's close, if you leave you hand on it for a while. For comparison, the Marx 50 watt and the Lionel 50 watt (blue plastic transformer) all put off close to the same heat, making me feel that it was probably normal. Here are the model numbers-  the Marx are #1249-50 watt and #1669-100 watt, and the Lionel is a #4150. 

Also, is it normal for the humming/buzzing to get louder after they have been on for a while? All three get about twice as loud after 20 minutes or so. If you let them cool down, they are fairly quiet again.

 

My next question is about grades (inclines). I know that the inclines need to be kept low, but Marx and Lionel both have trestle sets that contradict the things I've read about how steep of a grade you can climb. So, are these trestle sets ok or should they be avoided? 

 

I had another question I was going to ask, but it's slipped my mind right now, so I'll just go with these for now. As always, your replies are greatly appreciated!

 

 

That is about right on heat after allot of use. A larger transformer will be able to produce more power and be less hot to the touch, but overall the air temp around them will be similar.

 

The buzzing is the laminated steel plates vibrating as the unit expands a tiny bit from heat. It isn't unusual. But a hot transformer will produce a bit less power as the two are related.

 You'll find that Marx 100w unit fairly nice, and close to a Lionel 1033. Accessory output & all.

 The grades are usually ok for short trains, but barely. I think old Lionel risers are a 4.5%-5% grade. An extra set would cut that in half which is very nice.

 A level, but elevated line, not only gives you hands free ability while running, it adds interesting looks, and adds a track when you have no room on the ground. They existed during the steam era too.  

 I remembered something about my 100w marx (#1669?)

Its tapped strange. I don't have info on the internals.  

  Id say it shouldn't be used with the accessories, and track power both sharing any terminals, Hot or ground.

  E.G.- So don't use the 15v constant to run constant turnout power or track signals, unless that circuit is isolated fully, 100% from the track power.

Its not like most lionels. Of that, I'm sure.

It might be something done to keep each leg more independent, and less effected by the other.

 Its like the two legs are out of phase or something. Wiper in a funny spot? 

 

Originally Posted by Adriatic:

 I remembered something about my 100w marx (#1669?)

Its tapped strange. I don't have info on the internals.  

  Id say it shouldn't be used with the accessories, and track power both sharing any terminals, Hot or ground.

  E.G.- So don't use the 15v constant to run constant turnout power or track signals, unless that circuit is isolated fully, 100% from the track power.

Its not like most lionels. Of that, I'm sure.

It might be something done to keep each leg more independent, and less effected by the other.

 Its like the two legs are out of phase or something. Wiper in a funny spot? 

 

Thanks for the advice. As of now, I don't have any accessories, so nothing to worry about yet. I'll keep this in mind for when I do add some. Dad and I still haven't gotten around to even setting up all the track yet or building the tables. Right now we're just running the trains around on dad's living room floor. I've been focused on getting our engines all running and smoking right and trying to get some steam sounds again. Since the Marx Tender messed up, we haven't had any sounds, other than a Lionel mechanical tender that I picked up a little while back. It sounds OK, when you find the right speed, but I really miss that Marx. My efforts to repair it didn't go well, so now I'm trying to hunt down another one for a reasonable price or find one of the Lionel SoS tenders in good shape.

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