Looking for feedback on the New Railking N & W J

This is based upon the original RailKing MT-1105. I owned one of these for several years. That locomotive was a reliable, solid puller and MTH has only made it better with each release. I detailed mine long before MTH introduced the Imperial line. It was, however a conventional mute.

The RK Imperial is probably the best of the lot. It has detailing that rivals the Premier line. The main difference is size. If your layout is better suited to the smaller size, I'd say go for it. 

FWIW it's compressed proportions matches up well with the 18" Premier cars.

The RK PS2 N&W J set was the very first train set we bought when entering the hobby a little under 5 years ago.  Smoke was unbelievable. Sounds were great.  Ran great for a week or so, then nothing but constant problems.  Front light wouldn't come on unless purposely turned on.  Settings would never save.  Smoke would be on but not work, but reset (or deleting and adding engine back to DCS) would temporarily solve. Locomotive would stop running as if power was turned off, but hitting DCS controller start-up button would turn it back on, till it shut itself off again.  After running a few minutes, commands wouldn't work, with constant "check track" display.  Went back to MTH on a few occasions. Problems persisted to the point where we just boxed it up and forgot about it.  It probably has 30 - 40 total accrued scale miles on it.  

Peter

PJB posted:

The RK PS2 N&W J set was the very first train set we bought when entering the hobby a little under 5 years ago.  Smoke was unbelievable. Sounds were great.  Ran great for a week or so, then nothing but constant problems.  Front light wouldn't come on unless purposely turned on.  Settings would never save.  Smoke would be on but not work, but reset (or deleting and adding engine back to DCS) would temporarily solve. Locomotive would stop running as if power was turned off, but hitting DCS controller start-up button would turn it back on, till it shut itself off again.  After running a few minutes, commands wouldn't work, with constant "check track" display.  Went back to MTH on a few occasions. Problems persisted to the point where we just boxed it up and forgot about it.  It probably has 30 - 40 total accrued scale miles on it.  

Peter

MTH is usually good about making things right.  Methinks you should have demanded MTH pay the freight "both ways" after the second time around.  I have heard that Lionel will do that.  Last resort, have MTH buy it back. I have heard Lionel will do this.

Packing it away - aggravates you, lets them off the hook, and breeds more poor quality control! 

The original RK J #611 is the loco that caused me to switch to 3r from HO......as stated the current is just better.

I too had that original RK J, I sold it many years ago when I bought TMCC.  I also bought a nice set of 15in. Lionel N&W cars to run with it, which I still have. They are small but detailed nicely with interiors and people inside.  I still have this set and am looking for something to pull them.  I'm not a rivet counter and most of my stuff is scale, but I run what I like.  I have the Legacy 612 and the TMCC 611.

My other issue is that I run only Legacy and I would have to run this in conventional mode.  I don't care about the sounds except for the chuff, bell and whistle. I have assumed that Lionel will never make a Lionmaster J.  I think it would look ok on my upper loop.

Gilly, thanks for the pictures.  Also I never thought about running my 18 in. cars behind it.  

Thanks!

Since you are a conventional operator, I'd be careful. New MTH PS3 steamers have an issue where they'll lock up and skid when stopping/slowing via the throttle and direction button. It can be violent enough to derail the train and/or shred the traction tires. Apparently it is a software or other technical issue that MTH is aware about but fixing is easier said than done.

If that is something you can live with, I'd grab an Imperial J in a heartbeat. For me, that is something I can't live with and I bought the Williams Postwar reproduction J. In addition to better performance, the Williams also has the fat roller bearing side rods, which the Railking does not.

SJC posted:

Since you are a conventional operator, I'd be careful. New MTH PS3 steamers have an issue where they'll lock up and skid when stopping/slowing via the throttle and direction button. It can be violent enough to derail the train and/or shred the traction tires. Apparently it is a software or other technical issue that MTH is aware about but fixing is easier said than done.

If that is something you can live with, I'd grab an Imperial J in a heartbeat. For me, that is something I can't live with and I bought the Williams Postwar reproduction J. In addition to better performance, the Williams also has the fat roller bearing side rods, which the Railking does not.

I have not heard that, but I am 99% Lionel motive power so I don't follow MTH much.

I just bought one on Saturday. I love it.   I really wanted the premier version, but my curves aren't large enough.  The sounds are great & the details is really nice.   I'm running it on DCS, but I will chime in & say that when I ran it with a transformer & triggered the station stop sequence, it did have a very hard stop instead of coasting. I have a PS3 CNJ Camelback which does the same thing. So it may be an issue with the PS3 steamers, like was stated.  Besides that, she is a beauty 

I purchased a new one last week.  Unfortunately is was DOA and I sent it back to the dealer.

Good looking engine, nice improvement over the 1996 version.

May look for another one down the line on the used market.

Paul

Additional info on the conventional no-coast issue can be found HERE and HERE

I seem to recall another thread regarding a Premier loco that was giving the same trouble by another OGR member. I searched but couldn't find it.

There is a product review in the current issue of the "other" magazine.

You folks running conventional that have experienced abrupt stops with PS3 engines - are you reducing voltage and speed before hitting the direction switch?  Most of my engines will stop rather abruptly if I hit the switch without reducing speed first.  I have not had any trouble with my two PS3 engines, despite running them with a postwar ZW. 

I don't hit the direction switch until an engine is stopped.  Reducing speed first is much more realistic, too.

If you are running modern engines with a postwar transformer, be sure to install fast blow fuses in the wires to the tracks.  The circuit breaker in the transformer will protect the transformer itself, but not the delicate electronics in the engines.

John

John, 

I only tried in conventional quickly, but when you trigger the PFA, you have no choice but to hit the direction button to stop the train to get the sequence going

I will be using Legacy to control this locomotive. I will be reducing the power to the track to stop the loco.  May I assume the I won't have a problem with the sudden stops?

Doug N posted:

I will be using Legacy to control this locomotive. I will be reducing the power to the track to stop the loco.  May I assume the I won't have a problem with the sudden stops?

I'm not familiar with how it may/may not respond in conventional running via the Legacy system however I wouldn't assume you won't have the problem. If very careful throttling down (no direction button) you may be able to avoid it. In a perfect world, a nearby train friend might have the same engine he/she could bring over to try out before you buy it.

I own one, running with DCS, and it's great. I love it. The new Y6b is a beauty too.

Steam Crazy posted:

You folks running conventional that have experienced abrupt stops with PS3 engines - are you reducing voltage and speed before hitting the direction switch?  Most of my engines will stop rather abruptly if I hit the switch without reducing speed first.  I have not had any trouble with my two PS3 engines, despite running them with a postwar ZW. 

.

John

Both! I experienced the same thing both by reducing voltage via the throttle and the direction button. It could be avoided if you were extremely careful with reducing the voltage via throttle but not always. I think it really matters if one is willing to be careful and work with it. Personally, I sold my first engine that did it. I had another (GS4 Daylight) on order, came in, tested it, saw how it responded to stopping and refused delivery. It is generally not an issue with diesels and supposedly articulated steamers with 2 motors but I'm not interested in a $800+ gamble to see if that is accurate or not.

I have had my Imperial PS3 version for about a year now and love it. I only run DCS, so I have no experience with the start/stop issue. I like my Premier steam engines, but on a streamlined engine there is not enough added detail to justify the price difference, at least for me. ($430 vs $1000)