@mike g. posted:Morning John, Mark is correct that looks great I bet it is going to work wonderfully for you! I hope you will post more pictures as you go along!
Thanks Mark and Mike for the kind words. It seems whenever I think it is close to finished either a flaw rears its ugly head or I want to add another couple of details. I have much more trouble with the former! lol
@Aegis21 posted:Thanks Mark and Mike for the kind words. It seems whenever I think it is close to finished either a flaw rears its ugly head or I want to add another couple of details. I have much more trouble with the former! lol
LOL John, don't worry it comes with the hobby!
ok I proved to myself again the lack of my layout planning/building experience I was able to put up another stumbling block for myself. Major error in track heights and keeping grades to less than 3% while having providing some room for buildings. It started with setting track height's for each side of the lift bridge. On scarm I wound up setting them at 4" mainly to not have to deal with bridge lifting clearances. All seemed to be ok, until I started printing the trestles for the incline. Not enough length to accommodate a 3% grade. In this instance I was contemplating a ECO for the bridge lift design and reprinting the parts. I did decide to leave the bridge alone and lengthen the grade to accommodate the 3% grade. So added a 37" section which helped with it being put between two 072 curves, making it appear a smoother transition. It breaks up the main street town, although I think it adds more town detail/features/possibilities. So now a little adjustment to trestle heights and I will be back to printing trestle pieces. Here is a pic of the new section with some trestle pieces placed for fit. The foreground track on white trestle is the revised section. Behind that is the other mainline which is starting to incline to ultimately go over mainline2 tracks. Behind that is a spur on a trestle that will be used for delivering coal to a distribution center. From what I have found reading many posts, I need minimum 5.75" clearance when one track goes over another. PLEASE if this is incorrect let me know and also is there a height that is generally agreed upon or most commonly used? Last pic shows the tracks that will be over and under each other. This is where I would like to confirm heights. Thanks all for looking and helping!
WOW! Your trestles are beautiful. I’d love to buy some! As to your height issue, I usually use 6” from railhead to the lowest point on the overhead track or trestle, whichever is lower. But you should be fine with your 5.75”. My concern is with your grade and sharp transition, especially if you’re running long wheelbase scale locos and you aren’t using transitions like 1% for the first two feet and so on. You’re likely to have a problem with steam engine pilots shorting against these sharp vertical curves as well.
otherwise, your track and backdrops look great. I wish I had made half your progress on my layout.
Rubin
John, your bridges look great!! I agree with Rubin that 5-3/4” would be fine!! All of us have miscalculations and things we don’t take into consideration initially.
@RubinG posted:WOW! Your trestles are beautiful. I’d love to buy some! As to your height issue, I usually use 6” from railhead to the lowest point on the overhead track or trestle, whichever is lower. But you should be fine with your 5.75”. My concern is with your grade and sharp transition, especially if you’re running long wheelbase scale locos and you aren’t using transitions like 1% for the first two feet and so on. You’re likely to have a problem with steam engine pilots shorting against these sharp vertical curves as well.
otherwise, your track and backdrops look great. I wish I had made half your progress on my layout.Rubin
Hi Rubin, Thanks for the compliment, the trestles seem to have taken on a life of their own, so to speak. I find something to add or change or alter. They are the never ending trestle story. Really appreciate the input on clearances and the GREAT advice on grade transition! I remember reading some posts with Loco's "bottoming out at the grade transition. I had totally forgot that lesson and will now incorporate that knowledge into my layout. If you are in need of some trestles, it will be awhile before I have them where I would like them to be in a total design concept. I have mastered the curved sections, adding rivets to body and still wrestling with walkway and connecting things together. PM me and let me know what your needs are and we can go from there. Again THANKS a ton for the advise!
@Mark Boyce posted:John, your bridges look great!! I agree with Rubin that 5-3/4” would be fine!! All of us have miscalculations and things we don’t take into consideration initially.
Hi Mark, Thanks on the bridges, and concurring with Rubin on height clearance. Yes we are all human and miscalculate things, however that is becoming my normal! LOL For me it is me being in a rush to do everything. I need to slow down and take a third and forth look at things. I know the faster I go the behinder I get!
John, I certainly get impatient as well. I guess I have realized I have more ideas of projects than I will have the good health to do them! I need to slow down. Other things I would never realize until I get there no matter how carefully I planned.
I also agree with Rubin about the vertical transition of the grades. Since I was building inclined to the height you are and have less space, I had to work on the bottoms and tops of the two grades. At the top the pilot wheels of some steam engines left the track. I had to shave down the sharp transition at the top.
I laser cut and 3D print. No matter how well I think my designs and plans are, it still takes a few tries to get it right. And then I still have second thoughts...
As to bridge or elevated structures, I try not to use girders but instead to use open trusses because girders block views and trusses are open. I like to see the trains moving beyond the truss-shapes.
Here is a 5-track truss bascule.
@Mark Boyce posted:John, I certainly get impatient as well. I guess I have realized I have more ideas of projects than I will have the good health to do them! I need to slow down. Other things I would never realize until I get there no matter how carefully I planned.
I also agree with Rubin about the vertical transition of the grades. Since I was building inclined to the height you are and have less space, I had to work on the bottoms and tops of the two grades. At the top the pilot wheels of some steam engines left the track. I had to shave down the sharp transition at the top.
Hi Mark,
Hope all is well with you and your family. Seems once I hit 65 there is a finite amount of time left and an infinite amount of hopes and desires to accomplish. Good health down this last stretch of the journey is cherished for sure! Thanks for your supporting words, they mean a lot. I did go back over the posts where you had to adjust for transition grades. Great job, it seems to work beautifully.
John, did you notice I took up the track, shaved some off or filled in, then put the track back down only to find I didn’t do enough? A couple of them were so bad, I had to do it 3 or 4 times. Lesson learned! With the rapidly aging body, if I build another layout I won’t put in any grades at all! 😃 🚂
Im glad to give you some moral support! I just turned 68 and can attest to the fact that time left certainly comes to mind.
A new member at our church invited me to see his post-war layout last Saturday. He is probably in her mid-70s and has early stages of Parkinson’s. He had his wife operate the accessories for me to see. 😢
@AlanRail posted:I laser cut and 3D print. No matter how well I think my designs and plans are, it still takes a few tries to get it right. And then I still have second thoughts...
As to bridge or elevated structures, I try not to use girders but instead to use open trusses because girders block views and trusses are open. I like to see the trains moving beyond the truss-shapes.
Here is a 5-track truss bascule.
Glad to hear I'm not alone in designing twice and re-printing many. LOL The software is unbelievably powerful and can do anything you want it to do, however that is where I have issues, most times I don't know what I want! At any rate, your bridge is spectacular, and there is an inherent beauty in your design philosophy of using open trusses vs girders. Your work is just spectacular for sure!
Hi John, I am sorry I have been away from the computer alot, but I have been trying to get a train room again! LOL
I have to say your bridges and trestles look great! l hope you get the transitions figured out in a short period of time. I am just like Mark and have had to do mine on the old layout several time to the point I think I got to where I said to myself oh that is good enough for now and really never got back to fix it correctly.
This next layout I really plan on going somewhat slow as it has more going on in it!
I will keep watching your build as I can learn so much from you and all the comments you get! Thank you for sharing your build with the rest of us!
@mike g. posted:Hi John, I am sorry I have been away from the computer alot, but I have been trying to get a train room again! LOL
I have to say your bridges and trestles look great! l hope you get the transitions figured out in a short period of time. I am just like Mark and have had to do mine on the old layout several time to the point I think I got to where I said to myself oh that is good enough for now and really never got back to fix it correctly.
This next layout I really plan on going somewhat slow as it has more going on in it!
I will keep watching your build as I can learn so much from you and all the comments you get! Thank you for sharing your build with the rest of us!
Thanks as always Mike, You need to get back to making a train room again! Your good enough is the level I hope I can get to. pun intended. I'm sure you will have another spectacular layout! Good Luck! on planning and I can't wait to see all the things you will have "going on" 
Thanks John, I did make some progress the last couple of days, I was able to get the room 90% insulated and Wednesday I will get the ceiling sheet rocked. I am doing it Wednesday cause I get a free days rental on Thanksgiving day! LOL Which leaves me a little wiggle time to get the ceiling done!
The job that is at the bottom of my list is sheet rock and ceiling is the worst! Mostly because I am terrible with seams and sanding is a total disaster! My symphaty goes out to all that sheetrock.
@mike g. posted:Thanks John, I did make some progress the last couple of days, I was able to get the room 90% insulated and Wednesday I will get the ceiling sheet rocked. I am doing it Wednesday cause I get a free days rental on Thanksgiving day! LOL Which leaves me a little wiggle time to get the ceiling done!
How are your shoulders feeling Mike?
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:How are your shoulders feeling Mike?
Lol they are a little soar, should be worse after today. I plan on sheets g the ceiling today! I will be sure to let you know when I'm done.
@Aegis21 posted:ok I proved to myself again the lack of my layout planning/building experience I was able to put up another stumbling block for myself. Major error in track heights and keeping grades to less than 3% while having providing some room for buildings. It started with setting track height's for each side of the lift bridge. On scarm I wound up setting them at 4" mainly to not have to deal with bridge lifting clearances. All seemed to be ok, until I started printing the trestles for the incline. Not enough length to accommodate a 3% grade. In this instance I was contemplating a ECO for the bridge lift design and reprinting the parts. I did decide to leave the bridge alone and lengthen the grade to accommodate the 3% grade. So added a 37" section which helped with it being put between two 072 curves, making it appear a smoother transition. It breaks up the main street town, although I think it adds more town detail/features/possibilities. So now a little adjustment to trestle heights and I will be back to printing trestle pieces. Here is a pic of the new section with some trestle pieces placed for fit. The foreground track on white trestle is the revised section. Behind that is the other mainline which is starting to incline to ultimately go over mainline2 tracks. Behind that is a spur on a trestle that will be used for delivering coal to a distribution center. From what I have found reading many posts, I need minimum 5.75" clearance when one track goes over another. PLEASE if this is incorrect let me know and also is there a height that is generally agreed upon or most commonly used? Last pic shows the tracks that will be over and under each other. This is where I would like to confirm heights. Thanks all for looking and helping!
Checking in on your progress John. The trestles and piers look good. I'm with the rest on the transitions from flat to grade and vice-a-versa. Smooth them out as much as possible.
As long as you're not running autoracks or huskystacks then 5 3/4" from the railhead should be adequate. I made that mistake and have regretted it since. My upper level is about 5 1/4 which was fine for postwar equipment. As I've expanded my collection, I've had issues with some scale engines and rolling stock.
Bob
@mike g. posted:Lol they are a little soar, should be worse after today. I plan on sheets g the ceiling today! I will be sure to let you know when I'm done.
Icy Hot and Motrin.
Hi John, I am sorry I missed the question about height of your upper track. the best advice I can ever got was to measure the height of your tallest car on the track and make your height 1/4" higher then that!
I have some well cars that look tall but found out they are nowhere near as tall as my auto carriers!
And for you guys fallowing I got the ceiling sheet rocked! Taking a couple days off then I will start one the walls!
@Tranquil Hollow RR Shoulders are a little soar, but not as bad as I thought they were going to be, its my bad back that sucks! LOL 
@mike g. posted:Hi John, I am sorry I missed the question about height of your upper track. the best advice I can ever got was to measure the height of your tallest car on the track and make your height 1/4" higher then that!
I have some well cars that look tall but found out they are nowhere near as tall as my auto carriers!
And for you guys fallowing I got the ceiling sheet rocked! Taking a couple days off then I will start one the walls!
@Tranquil Hollow RR Shoulders are a little soar, but not as bad as I thought they were going to be, its my bad back that sucks! LOL
That’s a professional looking ceiling Mike. My shoulders hurt just thinking about doing what you accomplished.
Jay
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:That’s a professional looking ceiling Mike. My shoulders hurt just thinking about doing what you accomplished.
Jay
Yours and mine both, Jay! Back too!
Great work on getting that ceiling up! Looks perfect! And yes my back and neck hurts looking at it too, lol
Thanks for all the good comments on clearance, now my minimum clearance is at 5.75" top of rail to bottom of overhead. I do not have anything that tall but am considering purchasing some scale pieces in the future. If I don't make those purchases, then no harm done.
Working on printing and painting ALL the trestles for the spur and two main lines. The tall trestles take about 14 hours to print, so it is one per day for the higher ones. And the shortest print times are around 7 hours. That does not include the trusses between the vertical supports. But they are coming out good and rather than trying to speed up the print and risk failure, I'm being patient (as best I can lol) and letting the printer do its thing. At least with several printed now I can start to paint those pieces.
Just a works in progress update. Some pics of elevated sections, using 3D printed trestles with trusses for 072 curve going to the lift bridge. The gray is a primer and the redish is rust undercoat which will be salted and sprayed silver, i think... Still some finish/cleanup on the trestle pieces. Was looking to get height and transitions settled for the lift bridge area. btw the trestle pieces will be screwed into the homosote and the blue tape on the rails is masking for spraying the track rustoleum camo earth brown.
John, that is really impressive looking work!!
Thanks Mark, Many mistakes made in the process, and still hoping trains will run smoothly.
WOW John, I am with Mark, those look great! Your becoming quite the Pro with this 3D stuff!
John, Many mistakes on the way goes with the territory! I certainly make many mistakes in my modeling.
@mike g. posted:WOW John, I am with Mark, those look great! Your becoming quite the Pro with this 3D stuff!
Thanks for the kind words, although I feel stuck in this mode, making parts annd not building a thing... LOL
@Mark Boyce posted:John, Many mistakes on the way goes with the territory! I certainly make many mistakes in my modeling.
Well Mark you are a craftsman for sure, and making mistakes is the University of life. I may never graduate lol
@Aegis21 posted:Well Mark you are a craftsman for sure, and making mistakes is the University of life. I may never graduate lol
I doubt I will graduate either. No matter!
Well it finally dawned on me why I didn't get at least one line powered before Christmas, I counted the number of pieces the 3D printer printed for elevated sections of two main lines and a spur. They wound up taking 45 days of printing. Not totally continuous, however if a piece took more than 16 hours, then the next piece did not start till the next day. Then there was the design time, prime coating, rust coating and now salt masking and top coating. The spur is almost finished and I used a sliver final coat with a dark brown rust look. Not sure what color final coating will be for the two mainlines. Thinking either a blue/green (as in a NYC elevated subway green) brown, or a lighter/brighter silver than the spur is painted. One Mainline runs parallel to the spur and the supports will combine once the levels are equal. Any thoughts on colors???
That’s a lot of printing, John! My vote is for the blue/green from New York since you are familiar with it.
@Aegis21 posted:Well it finally dawned on me why I didn't get at least one line powered before Christmas, I counted the number of pieces the 3D printer printed for elevated sections of two main lines and a spur. They wound up taking 45 days of printing. Not totally continuous, however if a piece took more than 16 hours, then the next piece did not start till the next day. Then there was the design time, prime coating, rust coating and now salt masking and top coating. The spur is almost finished and I used a sliver final coat with a dark brown rust look. Not sure what color final coating will be for the two mainlines. Thinking either a blue/green (as in a NYC elevated subway green) brown, or a lighter/brighter silver than the spur is painted. One Mainline runs parallel to the spur and the supports will combine once the levels are equal. Any thoughts on colors???
Thank you for supporting your local power company ! 
@Richie C. posted:Thank you for supporting your local power company !
Your welcome
Guys....please keep on topic. Bandwidth is expensive
OK Some progress finally, Elevated lines are working out as far as static visuals are concerned. (didn't run a train on any tracks yet) However the concept is definitely coming together. At this point I have the three elevated tracks started and color scheme/weathering almost complete. The blue green descending track was primed with grey primer, then all painted with a brown/rust color. Next step was to wet areas and sprinkle salt to use as a mask and then given a couple of coats of blue/green color paint. Brushed the salt off and then used pan pastel chalk to age and weather even further. Using many tips and instruction from forum members, it appears to be successful. Here are some pics of that area, contemplating (wife's suggestion) to use a dark grey for the middle elevated section, so it won't detract from the future buildings. Also id=f anyone has a suggestion on transitioning from the descending elevated line to the "ground level" please let me know. 
John, it all looks very good! I really don't have any suggestions. Gray is a good suggestion from your wife. I haven't done anything with elevated track to the table level either.
Hi John, the elevated section looks great! I think you and your wife make a great team for painting schemes. As for the meet joint from elevated I have seen people cut holes in the bench work to the roadbed would fallow its path naturally, but what I did for my road bet was to take a hand plainer and bevel the underside of the plywood so it would make a nice gradual transition to the main level. I will probably do the same on my next layout.
Mike
Thanks Mark and Mike,
Mike, excellent idea on hand planning the transition from trestle to main level.. I hope my hand planning skills have gotten better with age. They were terrible, always wanted to cut too much too quickly. I never let the plane do the work.
I’ve generally used L girder framing and then the “cookie cutter technique,” in which you cut the subrosdbed to follow the track plan and then use risers which attach to to the joists. This allows you to precisely set the the elevation as you want it to be. But now that I’m in my 70s and about to get disc fusion surgery, I’m not sure that I’ll be able to under the layout the same way, so I may have resort to a flat top layout. Sigh…Time. will tell.
But I can tell you that if you’d can do it ,
the cookie cutter technique will yield good grade and elevation control and accuracy.
Good luck.
Rubin
Yes, cookie cutter is normally a great way to go. Rubin, I’m sorry you need fusion surgery! I’ve had it and a second back surgery too. If I build another layout, it will be flat topped for sure!
Mark,
Your modeling and your intestinal fortitude in the face of medical adversity are constant inspirations to me. Thank you for posting as you do and teaching us all along the t
…The way
Rubin, thank you for the compliment and you're welcome!
@RubinG posted:I’ve generally used L girder framing and then the “cookie cutter technique,” in which you cut the subrosdbed to follow the track plan and then use risers which attach to to the joists. This allows you to precisely set the the elevation as you want it to be. But now that I’m in my 70s and about to get disc fusion surgery, I’m not sure that I’ll be able to under the layout the same way, so I may have resort to a flat top layout. Sigh…Time. will tell.
But I can tell you that if you’d can do it ,the cookie cutter technique will yield good grade and elevation control and accuracy.
Good luck.
Rubin
Our prayers are with you Rubin, hoping your surgery goes well and you get pain free. Yes My setup is L-girder done from the excellent advice on this forum. Unfortunately I did not adhere to the 36" maximum reach. I can now clearly see the wisdom in that constraint. Thanks for your input and again you are in our prayers.
@Mark Boyce posted:Yes, cookie cutter is normally a great way to go. Rubin, I’m sorry you need fusion surgery! I’ve had it and a second back surgery too. If I build another layout, it will be flat topped for sure!
Mark, I have no idea how you have accomplished all that you have, and with such detail. Beautiful work for sure and you are an inspiration for me for sure.
Thank you, John!! ☺️
Thank you all for your good wishes. Fortunately, my wife and are first going on a vacation in about three weeks. Then surgery, rehab and surgery #2.
That sounds like a good plan, Rubin! I wish you and your wife well!!
Thank you John and Mark.
John, don’t feel badly about blowing the “ three foot rule. I followed it and for me that was a mistake. Given my height and, as the doctors say, body habitus, I max out at about 30-32 inches of reach. And that assumes that there is no elevated track in the way. I also haven’t mounted my photo backdrops, even as I am starting to lay track and block access to the wall. Soooo….
Thanks again for all the good wishes.
Rubin
Guys...lets not waste valuable/expensive bandwidth talking about bi-focal glasses...you can contact each other via your profile emails if you want to discuss that kind of topic.
Still working on the trestle tracks, 3d printing two track supports with 4.5" separations. These have been a little challenge for my 3d printer. With the frigid temps, I am getting warpage and lifting of the ends of the vertical supports. I wouldn't mind a little bit, however it destroys the print at the 80-90% completion point! I am trying a raft to maintain build plate contact, we'll see how that goes... On a brighter note, I did my first cookie cutting of the homosote layer, for the trestle decline of the main line running through town. Now to do the plywood section and extend both cuts to the next pieces of sub-roadbed.
Well here is my attempt at 3D block wall for bridge abutment. Not sure what color the grout should be on this piece. Thinking white maybe too much contrast and will take away from the aged look I am hoping to achieve.
Please let me know your thoughts on this one. THANKS john
The last picture in the post looks to be the winner in my eyes. Nice coloring with no mortar jumping out at you. Looks totally naturally aged.
Hi John I have to agree with Dave C. The last photo looks the best to me. I think it would look great on your layout!
John, I agree with Dave and Mike
Thanks Dave C, Mike and Mark!
Well it was unanimous decision, the CEO also picked that one. Glad I used a dark grey pla for printing, as that is now the "mortar" joints. Here are some pics with it in place and one mainline connected.
John
Nice brickwork. At the bottom of the bricks, I add a thin concrete foundation layer, which suggests a deeper concrete foundation supporting the bricks.
Actually, I put a foundation layer beneath all of my structures.
That looks very sharp, John!
John Great work ! You got to love the 3D printer!
I now realize how far over my head I am with this project. I have a EXTEREMLY Strong tendancy to get distracted by every small or large detail as I am working on one "phase" of the layout. My goal was to get track laid down and powered up to run a single engine to see some progress. So I started at the atlas bridge and getting the bridge abutment aligned for safe travel. Then I went and started to paint/weather abutment while printing some trestles for the second mainline. Then the elevated trestles and trusses etc. needed painted and weathered.
I can see that I am trying to finish a section of the layout, which delays the track work and powering things up. My gut tells me I am working towards ... Yeah, my point is, I havn't a finished plan to build to! Or even a picture in my head. To illustrate this, I was working on the decent of one of the mainlines from the atlas bridge. Well the trestles took me to 2" of the table top, so then the cookie cutter was brought up. Now I need an abutment for the track to transition from elevated girder to raised hill! Whoops, there goes my focus again, lacking a plan to work towards. Any and all advice is needed! Thanks
@AlanRail posted:John
Nice brickwork. At the bottom of the bricks, I add a thin concrete foundation layer, which suggests a deeper concrete foundation supporting the bricks.
Actually, I put a foundation layer beneath all of my structures.
Thanks for the great suggestion, yes a prime rule of building is a sturdy level foundation to build upon. Thanks Alan for the needed reminder.
@Mark Boyce posted:That looks very sharp, John!
Thanks Mark and Mike, yes the 3D printer has become a blessing and a thorn. It distracts me from working on the layout and working on 3d projects. lol my own achilles heal, lack of focus.
John, I can identify with your dilemma. The best advice I can give is to take heart, you recognize you get distracted looking towards an end goal. As I say of myself, I put the cart before the horse." I have run out of table when I thought the plan looked good on paper. Sometimes, I have to tear out what I just put in. Other times, I decide to live with the mistake and continue on. I think a lot of us have similar experiences.
John don't be hard on yourself I find if you don't have someone there to keep you on track it is so easy to veer away onto other projects! Heck I even see that at the local train club here near my new home! It happens to almost everyone I know or talke to!
Mark & Mike,
Thanks for the supportive words of encouragement, now to get back to doing something... LOL I'll forge ahead on the goal of completing track elevations and connecting. Next step is to identify power blocks, isolate and provide controlled power. So basically finish roadbed, trestles, lay track again, and provide power. Those are the goals! Sorry for being repetitive, I have a better chance of remembering that way.
Ok I am actually starting to wire track on the second main line trestle. It would have been great had I thought of how to wire the tracks on the trestle before I printed the trestles. Had to drill a couple of holes when they coud have been included in the design. Well lesson learned for the next layout. lol Hoping to get the block done and test run a loco or two, one MTH the other Lionel. This block includes a 30 degress Ross crossing which the one side is Mainline 2 and the other is the downtown trolley run. Not sure what needs to be taken into account for wiring power across the diamond, and should the diamond be powered. I would think the trolleys' pick ups may not span across the diamond. I saw a DPDT diagram from Ross but again not sure of the reasoning. Any help in this and all my other stumbling blocks is appreciated. Thanks John
@Aegis21 posted:Ok I am actually starting to wire track on the second main line trestle. It would have been great had I thought of how to wire the tracks on the trestle before I printed the trestles. Had to drill a couple of holes when they coud have been included in the design. Well lesson learned for the next layout. lol Hoping to get the block done and test run a loco or two, one MTH the other Lionel. This block includes a 30 degress Ross crossing which the one side is Mainline 2 and the other is the downtown trolley run. Not sure what needs to be taken into account for wiring power across the diamond, and should the diamond be powered. I would think the trolleys' pick ups may not span across the diamond. I saw a DPDT diagram from Ross but again not sure of the reasoning. Any help in this and all my other stumbling blocks is appreciated. Thanks John
John I am sure you got this! If it was easy it wouldn't be fun! Plus it keeps the mind fresh. Who needs some mind pills to keep your mind in good shape, just start a RR! Lol 😆
@mike g. posted:John I am sure you got this! If it was easy it wouldn't be fun! Plus it keeps the mind fresh. Who needs some mind pills to keep your mind in good shape, just start a RR! Lol 😆
Mike,
Thanks for the confidence. and starting a RR is definitely a mental challenge in different parts of the brain for sure! From artistic backdrop painting to geometry of a incline grade, to electrical signal analysis! Not to mention making scenery, buildings lighting, programming etc.
@Aegis21 posted:Mike,
Thanks for the confidence. and starting a RR is definitely a mental challenge in different parts of the brain for sure! From artistic backdrop painting to geometry of a incline grade, to electrical signal analysis! Not to mention making scenery, buildings lighting, programming etc.
You know John if someone told me everything into building a model RR I probably would have ran! But building one for the first time and learning as you go is the best and funnest way to learn!
Yes Mike I agree, I would have run also, especially with painting backdrops with using more than one color! LOL
Hi Mike,
I thought I did send some out to you. PM me if you can't find them, I'll print up some and send them.
@Aegis21 posted:Hi Mike,
I thought I did send some out to you. PM me if you can't find them, I'll print up some and send them.
Hi John, thank you and I will PM you if I don't find them, I plan on going out today and look through stuff so I know what order to store them under the bench work!
Mike, it looks like you are now in business!!
@mike g. posted:Hey John look what I found!
Pure gold!
Glad you found them, now I hope they do what you need them to do, work! LOL
Hi John, I had to sand the outside Grove and it works great! Thank you so much for sending them to me!
@mike g. posted:Hi John, I had to sand the outside Grove and it works great! Thank you so much for sending them to me!
You are most welcome Mike, you have helped me a LOT! Thank you
Well progress is slow and unsteady. . . but there is some progress to report. I have some of the elevated sections installed and powered. I took Jeff's suggestion and put drops on each GG track section, both power and return drops. Also used dcs and ran a small loco and read track signal at 8 to 10 consistently on each block. Now I am at the point of wiring up Ross switches, wanting to have auto derailing and block detection as my goals. Loco ran well without and issues with grades or grade/level interfaces. Not sure if a steam engine would be a better test of track clearances? Any thoughts? Thanks
John
John, Diesels often run better than steam due to their wheel base being much shorter. The fixed nature of the wheels on steamers mean elevation change points can cause the engine to rock. The longer the wheelbase the greater the sensitivity. My most challenging are the 4-8-4s with the larger diameter drivers such as the GS-4 . Even poor switch work causes that one to rock. I have far less operating issues with an articulated steamer like the Big Boy (shorter truck wheelbase and smaller drivers), but look out for clearance on that one depending on curve diameter. (This is all scale stuff)
John, The pilots of steam engines will find abrupt changes in grade. Going uphill to level, the pilot wheels can lift and derail. Going downhill to level, the pilot itself can touch the rail causing a short circuit. I have also noticed that on curves, the cab roof can sway the farthest away from the rails hitting objects too close.
John that's great news about the track and the signal's you are getting! Jeff and Mark are correct about everything they said and as Mark stated watchout for that darn cab overhang. A beam in my old trai room got a little shaving do to the overhang.
Thanks for the excellant input ScoutingDad, Mark and Mike. I will use a steam engine to check things out. 90% of my engines and cars are O gauge, with one O scale NYC diesel. I'll run the largest engines I have to verify clearances. However that may not be good enough for future purchases.
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