At this point I have nothing so I can go in any direction. To set up DCS I know you need the remote, the TIU and transformer. What suggestions or caveats do you have for a transformer? it seems to me that the ZW 4000 has controls I don't even need.
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If you're running strictly command, it's hard to go wrong with one or more Lionel Powerhouse 180 transformers. They have a very good electronic circuit breaker and deliver a true 180 watts at 18 volts. You can run conventional through the TIU using the variable channels if you desire as well.
I also use and recommend the Lionel 180 Powermaster.
I'll 4th the 180 brick.
The biggest reason I can think of is that makers like 3rd Rail, tell you NOT to use more than 18VAC on your rails or it may damage the electronics (TMCC/ERR) in their engines. I was using a MTH Z750 which has 21VAC output. Not sure if Lionel also urges nothing over 18VAC, but it would make sense if they do.
Lionel's recommended voltage is 18 volts. This is from almost any TMCC and Legacy manual.
Power your locomotive with an alternating-current (AC) transformer only. Powering your locomotive with a direct-current (DC) transformer, or in excess of 19 volts AC, may result in damage to sensitive electronic components.
Also, in the instructions you find this.
Power your locomotive at 12-18 volts with your alternating current (AC) transformer.
The one big plus with using a Z4000 is that, by adding a Z4000 Remote Commander receiver, one can operate the transformer "touchlessly" from the DCS remote. This allows complete power control from the DCS Remote. The Z4000 can be placed out of sight (even under the layout) so as to make more room available for other things on the layout.
Further, it also allows all 4 TIU channels to be used to control conventional trains directly from the DCS Remote, without having to touch the transformer to adjust power, reverse engines, ring the bell, or sound the horn or whistle.
One more thing that many would consider to be an essential part of any DCS layout is a copy of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition. 
Everything you need to know about DCS and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site!
CLICK HERE go to MTH's web page for the book!
I have two of the 135 watt bricks and those work just fine with DCS as well if you can find them. If not, here's another plug for the 180 watt bricks.
--Greg
The only minus for the 135W bricks is they have a much slower circuit breaker, that's why I moved exclusively to the 180 watt bricks.
I cannot thank you forum members enough for your quick responses. i got some great advice and I will begin my purchases shortly.
The only minus for the 135W bricks is they have a much slower circuit breaker, that's why I moved exclusively to the 180 watt bricks.
How do you know that John?
How big is your layout and what type of trains do you have. Some issues to consider are amount of power available, having meters to monitor Voltage, but more importantly current, having a conventional controller that allows you to run conventionally with a bell and whistle button. This comes in handy for some basic troubleshooting and resets that may occur. MTH engines prefer Pure sign wave or close too it. G
I'd put in a plug for the Z-4000.
It has enough power for a good size layout for future planning.
I power 400 ft of track with one Z-4000 and all 4 TIU channels.
It has built in digital ammeters and voltmeters.
It also has fixed 14 and 10 VAC outputs. The 14 VAC output is ideal for the aux power for the TIU electronics, so that if you blow the CB or fuse feeding fixed input 1; you still retain control of the other 3 TIU channels. Quite important.
MSRP on a new one is around $430, but you can pick them up used for $300 to $325.
Just my .02 worth.
Rod
John,
Also, you have to manipulate the handles on the Z4000 each time you power it up, you don't have to do anything to the PH 180 bricks.
As Lima pointed out, and I stated previously, the Remote Commander resolves that issue and also provides otherwise enhances the DCS experience via Z4K Tracks.
I have the remote receiver, but I haven't taken it out of the package yet. That's useful info, because that's one thing that is a bit annoying about using the Z4000.
Do you still have to do something at the remote to get voltage on the transformer, or just apply power?
John,
Do you still have to do something at the remote to get voltage on the transformer, or just apply power?
You would create a pair of Z4K Tracks and use them to preset the Z4K Track starting, minimum and maximum voltages. Then, upon starting up the layout:
As you might have expected...
This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site!
CLICK HERE go to MTH's web page for the book!
Thanks Barry, kinda' what I thought. I'm lazy, and I love the fact that I just hit the main power and my bricks are on. 
John,
I just hit the main power and my bricks are on
The trade-off is that in order to turn off track power for a loop, you need to either shut down all power to the tracks via a switch, toggle-switch each loop or press E-Stop.
Further, none of these can be done away from the control panel, except the E-Stop, which necessitates a complete re-boot of the entire layout.
Valid points Barry, I'm figuring on having panel switches for each loop and the sidings independently.
The Z4000 (I have one fresh off the boat) has decent breakers that should be sufficient to protect at least your TIU. They are not nearly as fast as the Lionel PowerHouse 180 electronic breakers. I can't imagine the older ones had better breakers, but I don't have one to check.
John,
They are not nearly as fast as the Lionel PowerHouse 180 electronic breakers
Are you sure? The breakers on all three of my Z4000s are very, very fast!!
I'm sure that mine doesn't trip as fast as the PH180, yes. Like I said, they're not bad, but they're apparently standard thermal breakers. On a dead short, they trip pretty fast, but for an overload they take more time.
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