No chuff sounds

If its anything like my early TMCC stuff there will be a small "switch" that is activated by a crank,sometimes this little lever needs to be adjusted so that contact is made and a signal sent to the electrics.

MIKE

I did locate a crank that operates a "flapper" type of mechanism...think this is for the smoke unit...very noisy! Where might the switch be that would activate the "chuff" unit?

The chuff switch should be right there at the location of the smoke unit.  Normally mounted low in the chassis.

Its located in the smoke unit bracket.

Bill

Ah Ha, pictures!  

Well, I guess the boiler comes off tomorrow and some exploratory time is called for.

Thanks for the info guys...and the pictures Bill!

Does anyone know if the "chuff" is suppose to work in the conventional mode?

I took the boiler off and check all the connections, cleaned the reed switch, and I still only get the start up steam sounds...and I have whistle and bell sounds. Hate to call Lionel because this is old tech. and they probably aren't familiar with this TMCC version off hand. Or, maybe I should just be happy with what I have...it runs very smooth.

 If you  talk to CS you will probably find that its not beyoud their capabilities. I would check the switch to see if it has continuity when closed.

Bill

I checked for continuity and that seems ok. This engine is one of the teatherless variety. I did not see any light from the infrared LED on the engine side coupling. Looking at the schematics, a brown and orange wire connect to the LED.

On the tender side, a photo transister is suppose to pick up the signal. I noticed the wires on the tender sided were reversed...so a brown wire was in line to an orange wire and an orange wire was in line to a brown wire. I flipped the photo transister so the color of the wires matched on both sides of the teather. Still no "chuff". Don't know if this is part of the problem, but the wiring did not match the schematic.

I have yet to try the re-program. I'm wondering if I should put the wiring back to the old way or try re-programing with revised wiring scheme?

Rocky,by flipping it you did not change any wiring other than the colors.

Try what Mike says and see what happens.

Doug

Re-programed the engine and get a great steady steam sound...no "chuff". The smoke flapper/crank works well. My guess it is the cherry/reed switch that is not doing it Off/On duty. I get a steady continuity reading whether the crank is in the active or unactive position.

Where is a good source for a reed switch? I don't want to replace the entire wiring harness just for a switch.

The cherry switches are available from Lionel.  I keep a stock of like 4 -5 on hand as these wear out after a while and are normally responsible for the chuff sounds not working.  They are inexpensive and easy to replace.

I think that may be a "conditional" statement.  I've seen some that are buried pretty well and took a bit of disassembly to get the switch out.

We have the cherry switch in stock, PN 610-0401-162 $1.20 ea. + shipping.

Bill

SandJam

I give Lionel a call for the cherry switches. Would you happen to have a part number for the switches?

gunrunnerjohn

I've had this engine disassembled so many times testing and searching I could rebuild it in my sleep. It appears the cherry switch is just in front of the smoke unit..".buried"...everything in this engine is buried...it's the ultimate Treasure Hunt!!!

Opps! Bill beat my posting. Thank you for the info. I'll get ahold of you.

Yep, sometimes they're in there where you have to take the smoke unit, electrical board mount, etc. out just to get to them.