Non-Magnetic Milk Can Help

Not sure as never used the nonmagnetic milk cans . Idea thou somehow mark the bottom of the one's that don't and see if it's the same ones every time, though could be need more weight to the bottom some how

I've never been successful in getting them to always stand up either.  The K-Line milkcar worked great, smoothly pushing the cans out, no tipping.

 

I wonder if it would be possible to remake the car's platform in a non-magnetic material and use the ones with magnets?  I know they don't work in the stock car, only the older cars.

 

I'd suggest ensuring that the platform is at nearly the same height as thebottom edge of the car door. If the platform is drastically lower, the cans will surely tip over.

I've also attached a strong, rectangular refrigerator magnet to the underside of the platform deck to help grab the cans and keep them upright.

The original magnetic cans won't work in the newer cars as they will jam as you've experienced.

With the older car, to give a better distribution of the cans, as the cans had the magnet on the bottom and the platform being made of a ferrous metal, I heard that the train with the milk car has to be in motion, slowly.

Ralph

Is the can plastic?  Can one drill it out just a little and install those tiny cylindrical rare earth magnets in the hole?  Those magnets are powerful!

Lionel used two different cans during the Postwar period. the small milk cars: 3462, 3472, and 3482 used metal cans with a magnetic insert.

The large milk car 3662, and Bosco car 3672, used plastic cans with a metal base.

 

As BANDOB discovered, the cans are not interchangeable.

When the Lionel platform is set up with the track it was designed for, there isn't much space between the platform, and the bottom of the milk car mechanism. When the voltage is set correctly, I don't have a problem with the cans remaining upright.

 

I wonder whether your car has a bind that is forcing the use of excessive voltage.

No can do, the magnetic cans don't work at all in the 3662 and similar cars.

 

I agree with Graz, the platform looks too low. What track are you using under the platform? Usually these larger milk cars are fairly reliable ejecting the cans so they remain upright.

Another thought, since it is operated with TMCC, the voltage may be too high and the worker is throwing the cans too hard?

Bill I have some non -magnetic metal disk I can send you that might help.

My email is in my profile ...send your name and address and I'll send you some.

Bob

The milk-car upgrade has adjustable voltage for the car, you can set it to any value you like.  It uses the ERR MiniCommander HC.

Voltage is set at minimum.

 

Bill

Agree with both Graz & Chuck, the platform does look too low.  It should be more level with the bottom of the door frame.  I have a couple of the 3662 cars that use the non-magnetic cans, and made sure the platform was at the same height as it would be with regular tubular track, and the cans eject pretty reliably, although like all operating unloading accessories, not 100% perfect.

Thanks, everyone, for your comments, observations, and suggestions. I'll give them all a try.

 

 

I guess you're not interested in the offer I made you.

Bob

Bob, check your email! My concern is size. The cans just barely snap into the loading chute now.

 

 

The original 3662 used a dashpot on the solenoid - did that cushioning action improve delivery?

 

quote:

The original 3662 used a dashpot on the solenoid - did that cushioning action improve delivery?

 

In my experience, if the mechanism is in good condition, the voltage is set properly, and the platform is set up correctly, both the small and large milk cars work fine. The cans do not fall over very often.

 

The dashpot slowed the large one down a bit, making the action look a little more realistic.

I vote for checking voltage. That's usually been my solution regardless of type of cans. Too high and they go flying. Too low and they fall into the "gap."

Here's the result.  Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. This is what makes OGR such a great place to visit. The car did return from Boxcar Bill at the lowest voltage. I did have to raise it to middle level to assure brisk operation. 

 

The best I've been able to do is 4 out of 6 upright. The car is on 0-27 track, and I think you can see the platform is level at the 0-27 setting. I tried the O setting, but the doors would not open. I haven't tried BK's little metal discs yet. I worry that the added size may jam the cans in the loading chute. BK, have you used these before on these non-magnetic milk cans?

 

I too have been working with the Lionel milk car (3662).  I did a little experimenting and tried different voltage settings to operate the car.  Seemed to work best at around 8.5 volts......however, sometimes some of the cans would still fall over!......but it certainly looks more realistic then at the 10 volts from my Z4000 transformer. I am using Atlas track with their #6097 accessory rail kit.  It appears to sit at a perfect height with the platform, as the doors of the car just clears the platform.  Anyone know what diode would work best to reduce the voltage down from 10 volts to 8.5 volts?  Thanks

GunrunnerJohn:  tell us more about the "adjustable voltage kit".  This might be a good additive for this great accessory.  The car comes apart pretty easily and there is plenty of room in the car......is this something you add to the car?

The ERR Milk Car Kit adds TMCC control to the milk car.  You can adjust the voltage to the solenoid in the setup of the kit.  Check the Electric RailRoad web site and look for the kit description.

Forgive me if I am repeating what somebody else wrote (or if I am repeating myself).

 

I find that when they come into my hands, most milk cars can use a basic servicing. I disassemble the mechanism as far as it will go by removing screws, e-rings, and/or horseshoe washers, and carefully clean all the parts, except the dashpot. (they are usually OK) If need be, I polish parts that slide over each other. I do not use any lubricant (Note that the Lionel service manual says not to use anything other than "Molykote powder" or graphite. )

 

If you do decide to disassemble to dashpot, be aware that putting too much grease on the dashpot piston will stop the mechanism from working properly. Either it will take a lot of voltage to get things moving, and when the mechanism finally does move, the cans go flying. Or the mechanism won't move at all.

I took a look at the ERR web site, and their kit works with TMCC.  I was hoping that it would work with conventional mode and perhaps be a rheostat  that would be able to vary the voltage operating "the little man".  Thanks though.