Good morning....What is this that sticks out in the center of the tender above the coupler? Should my Kadee mount flush or under a little?
Thank you
Clem
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That looks like a striker casting, it protects the end sill as well as the rest of the tender. Your coupler should protrude out slightly from the striker.
Thanks Joe.... The photo of the scale model is clear, I found the photo of 2016 but wasn't clear of how far recess under. Looks like other photos and a drawing show the coupler below and recessed covering the coupler half way ? Not sure if I can do that with Kadee.
clem
Our models don't always work out like the real thing. Our curves are almost always sharper than in real life. My point is whatever works is what's best. I go for operation over looks. I showed the pictures to let you decide.
If your tender is the long haul version, the coupler protrusion maybe more important. Otherwise I would tuck it under as much as will work.
On my longest cars, I used the long shank KDs for better tight curve performance.
I have to go look at my 3rd Rail Niagara to see what I did there. I'm pretty sure it's a standard KD on that one and the holes were already provided. I don't remember that coupler plate thing (anti-climber?) sticking out that far.
Looks like My Niagara's rear coupler head sticks out a good 3/4s of the way past that plate.
It's shaped different on the Sunset model. Just a couple of flat pieces of brass to form a bumper stop protector thing.
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This is a Precision Scale tender beam I used to restore a 3rd Rail PT tender.
Pete
Man the solutions you guys come up with, just amazing. Love those PT tenders.
Thanks Joe
Pete your photo didn't show up
Clem
