Skip to main content

Hi,

 

I'm new to model railroading and am hoping one of you can explain the following behavior I uncovered today. I have an MTH N6B caboose/cabin car. It has cabin illumination, as well as two small lanterns at the rear of the cabin. I bought it to go with a Lionel Ready-to-Run PRR set that has an 18 volt "Switching mode power supply". When placed on the track, the cabin lights worked but the rear lanterns didn't, so I thought the model was defective. However, if I put the caboose on MTH 18 volt track with a Z-500 transformer, the rear lanterns light up. Likewise, if I power a section of Lionel track with a Marx 6-12 volt transformer, the rear lanterns light up. This experiment is repeatable, which makes me think that there's something in the wiring of the caboose lighting and something about the Lionel non-transformer power supply that results in the rear lanterns not lighting up. But what could that be? Can anyone ... er, shed some light on this? Unfortunately, the caboose owner's manual doesn't give details on the bulbs and I half disassembled it then decided to let well enough alone rather than risk breaking the fine wires just to find out what kind of bulbs were in the lanterns.  A big factor in buying this caboose was the rear lanterns, so it's disappointing that they don't light up on my Lionel track. (Yes, I can eventually use a transformer with the track, but I'm curious/puzzled why this is happening.)

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Tomlinson Run RR

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

A "switching mode power supply" is usually a DC voltage so I'm guessing your Lionel system puts DC voltage on the track.  The Z-500 puts AC voltage to the track.  DC voltage can have either positive or negative polarity...whereas AC voltage alternates between positive and negative polarity.

 

The main cabin lighting of every MTH car I've seen uses regular incandescent bulbs which operate on AC or either polarity of DC.  However some of the smaller lights in these cars use so-called LEDs (Light-Emitting-Diodes) which are wired such that only one of the two DC polarities will work; since AC provides both polarities, AC works to light up these LEDs.  My guess is your DC track voltage is the wrong polarity.

 

Surely you're not the first to run into this and I'm sure you'll have a solution or workaround shortly.

 

Last edited by stan2004

Hi Stan,

 

Thanks for the explanation.  That makes perfect sense.  So, I have a 9-volt AC-to-DC BOSS power supply for powering guitar effects.  The pin inside the cylindrical plug is ground, while the outside shield is positive. Without it in hand, I'm 99% sure that this is the reverse of the Lionel switching mode power supply's plug.  Assuming that the diameter of the Lionel and BOSS power supply plugs are the same, can I safety test this theory by plugging in the 9-volt power unit? It seems like it should be OK. Boy, so glad that I didn't return the model for a refund, as this was the last one I could find. MTH did a really great job on this one.

 

Thanks again,

 

Tomlinson Run RR

Since you confirmed the Lionel supply is DC, I think that explains the behavior.  To test the theory, I'd think you want to isolate the MTH car.  To that end, how about simply taking the cylindrical plug and touching the outside shield to the MTH car wheel while using a short piece of wire or an unbent paper clip to momentarily connect power from the inside of the plug to the center-power-roller on the car.  Then do the reverse (shield to center-power-roller, and paper-clip to wheel).

 

 

Stan,

 

I tried the "reversed" DC power supply test as you suggested and the lantern LEDs lit up.  So your DC polarity explanation is confirmed and a paper clip will now be part of my troubleshooting tools :-).  

 

Rob, thanks, yes I figured that I could use the MTH 18 V transformer with the Lionel track. Unfortunately, the MTH transformer output plug is too large for the Lionel terminal track.  I figure I can get it to work if I buy the Lionel terminal track with wires and keep the MTH transformer plugged into the DCS Remote Commander. The commander unit provides the two output wires needed to attach to the terminal track. But that's an awful lot of clutter to trade for two tiny lights.  Maybe someday when my layout isn't on the living room floor? I liked the elegance of the Lionel power supply but clearly there was a slight trade off with this particular caboose model.

 

Thanks to you both for the suggestions and information. It was helpful.

 

Tomlinson Run RR

Originally Posted by TomlinsonRunRR:
I figure I can get it to work if I buy the Lionel terminal track with wires and keep the MTH transformer plugged into the DCS Remote Commander. The commander unit provides the two output wires needed to attach to the terminal track.  

If I understand this option, the DCS Remote Commander is simply being used an an adapter from Z-500 barrel plug to 2-wires?  If so, you can get an adapter for less than $1 with free shipping on eBay (search "5.5mm female adapter") though it takes a few weeks to get it from Asia.  Here's the idea shown with the power-plug from my MTH Z-transformer brick...

 

power adapter 55

Attachments

Images (1)
  • power adapter 55

OK, so here's how I got my MTH transformer, DCS Remote Commander, and etc. working with my Lionel track, which was formerly powered by DC. This means that I can now use my MTH Pennsy cabin car with the reversed polarity LEDs and enjoy their lovely glow on the track that I prefer.

 

I decided against the female connectors, although I had some on hand, just because I didn't want wires running under the track.  This is a carpet layout after all. So, instead I bought a Philmore 6-foot DC Plug Cable Assembly, No. TC258, inside dia. 2.55 mm, outside dia. 5.5 mm, straight plug, 18 AWG. It fits the Lionel Terminal FasTrack perfectly and makes for a nice smooth looking connection.  I got two spade terminals to attach to the DCS Remote Commander gizmo, which in turn goes to the transformer.  The parts cost a little more than what stan2004 proposed but I wanted to buy from a store where I could ask dumb questions and establish a rapport since this is my first adaptation project.

 

After some challenges with my hardware store "quality" crimping tool, pathetic hand grip and several wasted connectors later, the very nice electronic shop owner (Electronics Plus, Littleton, Mass.) used his serious-business crimping tool on them, and ended up soldering the two connectors for me 'cause it was handy and he is a very nice guy.

 

I got my new adapter home, hooked it up, and as we say in my line of business, "it just worked".  I was able to power my diesel up on a test track section, put it through its paces, and shut it down.  Yeah! Here are some pix, although it's hard to tell that the cab lights are powered on, but they are. Now enough distractions and back to school work!

 

Thanks for your suggestions guys.

 

Tomlinson Run RR

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 01_EverythingCropped
  • 02_BarrelPlugAdaptorParts
  • 03_BarrelPlugAdaptorOn
Last edited by TomlinsonRunRR

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×