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Having been in model railroading since the late 1960's I have built 2 N scale layouts and 2 HO layouts.  About 2 years ago, I was bitten by the O-Gauge 3-rail bug, as I looked for something larger in scale for declining eyesight and dexterity.  About the same time, we downsized into a home that is probably best for 2 people, but we still have two 20-somthing daughters living with us.  Therefore, I have had time to learn about O-Gauge before committing to a 12' x 12' space one of our daughters will vacate.  Keep your fingers crossed.

 

This brings me to Jim Barrett's ongoing articles covering how he built a layout in his home.  I have read the articles from the beginning, but it wasn't until the latest issue where I took notice that I need to revaluate my mental plans.  I have considered building a shelf layout using comercial strip shelving hardware.  I mean the type where you fasten metal strips vertically on the wall, then pick the slots that are at the right height for your shelf brackets.  It worked in HO; very nicely.  You can even build grades if you wish, by staggering the shelf brackets.  I made mine flat, then used Woodland Scenics 2 and 4 percent grades.

 

Jim trashed my thoughts when he pointed out how benchwork for O-Gauge needs to be more substantial considering the weight of O-Gauge locomotives and rolling stock.  It was obvious to me O has much greater weight than HO.  I immediatly envisioned placing my O-gauge trains on my shelf in the old house, and start to see sagging.  Now I see why so many of you are building benchwork that is much sturdier than I am used to.  So there you have it.  Even though I am a telecommunications engineer at work, this proves I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. 

 

I want to thank Jim and the OGR staff for the articles.  I also invite any comments from former small scale modelers who have made the jump to O, or anyone else for that matter.

 

Thank you.

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Hi Folks,

 

I attended a NMRA clinic once that demonstrated that most model railroad benchwork is overbuilt.  I have seen plenty of modular layouts that are both light weight and strong.  Your self idea will probably work fine for a small narrow shelf layout.  I would guess that you won't be running 30 pound die cast locomotives and 100 car trains in a 12' X 12' room. 

 

My own layout is overbuilt because I need to get on top of the benchwork of reach some areas of the layout.   I think that this is the main reason most layouts, including those in smaller scales, are overbuilt.

 

Joe  

 

 

Last edited by Rich Melvin

Mark,

 

Your idea will work fine for O scale.  I have a three level around the room layout with the shelves 30 inches deep along one wall.  The first level is on the floor. I used the vertical mounting strips from Home Depot that have the double slots in them and mounted a strip on each wall stud, so 16 inch spacing.  I used the longest shelf supports they had and then mounted a 1 x 2 inch wood strip on top of each to get the 30 inch depth.  Works beautifully and I have little doubt that I could put something close to a hundred pound weight on it without a problem.  The weight of O gauge locomotives doesn't faze it.  This approach allows floor to ceiling layout possibilities in a small room so when you walk in you see only trains and very little bench work which is quite nice visually.

Last edited by conrad50

One more addition to the above reply.  I think you should use at least six foot mounting strips.  If you are concerned about their being strong enough, just mount one on the wall and then attach a single shelf support and see if you can lift yourself up with it!  Remember, talking here about the double slotted mounting strips and double width shelf supports.

I weigh in in the middle here.

Those Strips up the wall and flat plug in shelf holders are pretty weak compared even to a 1 X 4 for strength. I have used both.

I recommend Heavier Shelf brackets that Screw into the wall studs.

After getting back to this and seeing those posting ahead of me, Yes, The double strips on at least every other stud will suffice. not gonna comment about how I think they look, you can hang something on the shelf edge to hide anything.

 

And True, I don't expect to see a Scale Big Boy running in the 12 X 12 space, but an Imperial Railking Big Boy will and won't look too bad as long as he stays above O-31 or hides those sharp curves in scenery. O-31 hidden in the back and O-48 or more up front will look nice. (O-54, O-42, O-54 makes a nice 90° curve in MTH track)

 

Last edited by Russell

As long as you use heavy duty brackets and strips, you should be fine, the brackets should be relatively thick , have heavy feet where it goes into the track, and make a firm connection when put in. And yes, the track should be screwed into the studs with good quality hardware, screws they use for decks would be good.....I agree, if you can hang on the bracket and it doesn't pop out and warp you will be fine.Given the width of what you will be putting on it, the torque arm is such that it will be fine (on the other hand, I knew a 'genius' of sorts, who thought he could cantilever 4' of plywood using heavy duty tracks and some arms he fabricated, now that was, well, interesting.....).

 

The only question I would raise is having a shelf like that screwed into the wall, will it be louder than you may want? screws going into studs will transmit the vibration, hence my asking others about that. On the other hand, having loud trains to me isn't a bad thing at all

Not sure the bracket pictured below is the one you are discussing?

 

It is 20" [21" from wall]. I have used a ton of these, they are stout and can handle a lot of weight including on a cantilevered extension. I don't remember now but Lowe's or Depot may have longer ones up to 24"?

The vertical steel retainer is fastened to the studs with 3" screws. The above brackets are for the wire shelving, similar brackets for standard shelving appear to be stronger. 

IMG_2133

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Last edited by Dewey Trogdon
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