Oiling? axles and pivot points

Bob, I use sewing machine oil.

I use gun oil.  It's a great lubricant and I have plenty of it.

 

Instead of "oil", you COULD use a dry graphite lubricant.

Whats wrong with using oil? Most of us use it, or have used it since we got into the hobby. Different brand names or types, but I'd think that oil is the most popular.

My thoughts were toward using a silicone spray, but, I'm not sure it would be up to the job.  Also, I've seen some Super Lube (still oil) that is used in the RC hobby.  I also found an oil that will not harm plastics.  Still, that's two oils and one dry (silicone) product.  I was just thinking of keeping the track residue to a minimum.  Powered graphite is pretty messy.  I used to use it on my sons' pinewood derby cars, years ago.

Since the cut over to needlepoint axles and Delrin pockets on the trucks in the MPC era I have to ask what/why are you apply lube to rolling sock?  If the axle is dirty, clean it.  If its damaged, replace it.  The same applies to the pockets.  

Well, when something squeaks, or doesn't spin as freely as I think it should, I usually lube it, with oil or silicone or WD.  If I knew all the answers, I wouldn't have asked the question.

Current rolling stock uses diecast metal trucks.  Only the lower end uses plastic trucks.  I have had to oil rolling stock to keep it from squeaking.  A light oil is the tried and true method. If not over lubed, it should not run onto the track

Look at the side castings on the metal trucks.  You will find a Delrin pocket in the side casting where the needle point rests.  The only time you should see metal on metal are situations like the MTH subway cars that use the same trucks for power cars as they do for the non powered cars.  These all have use sleeves/bushings and do require lube.  

 

If you have needle point axles and plastic pockets AND you are using oil on them you may be contributing to your problems as the oil will attract debris (dust/fibers) and increase the overall friction, not decrease it.

Sorry,for,all,the,comas,my,key,board,is,not,working,my,sace.bar,&some.of,

the,letters,are,not,working,

 

I,have,had,good,luck,with,motor,oil,also,synthetic,motor,oil,5/20,10/30,

seems,to,not,break,down,as,3n1,oil,does,last,longer,to,also,less,fibers,and,

dust,sticking,to,the,oil..if,it,works,for,my,cars,motor,should,work,for,my,

train,engine,motors,and,truck,axels...also,a..quart..last,a,very,long,time.

Fred

 

 

Axles, siderods: oil (3-in-1 is just fine)

Pivot points: grease (white LaBelle is good, but any light grease is fine) or oil

Gearboxes: grease (see above, or, automotive axle grease is great - per me

and Scott Mann of 3rd Rail)

Coupler mechanisms: dry, as in graphite powder

 

This lubrication thing is sort of like the "track cleaning conundrum"; keep it

simple, common-sensible and don't use anything weird (see "Simple Green").

 

A thing can only get just so slick or so clean. Your track will need cleaning every so often,

anyway (WD-40 on a rag is recommended).

 

Modern plastics that are designed to be around or be part of machinery are already designed for grease and oil exposure. Old 1950's stuff may be susceptible, as plastics

are petrochemicals, and were less stable then.

What to use on third rail rollers?

I use a light oil on all of these items, including the pickup rollers.

Thank you John

That is what I had been doing, just thought maybe there was something better.

 

Clem

I have no plastic bearings.  I use ordinary automotive oil on everything but gears, and for gears I use Lubriplate.  A lot of MTH and K- Line have metal journal bearings, and need lubrication.

 

I submit that, if you want to try something a bit more expensive, try TriFlo.  It has Teflon in it, and has amazing staying power.

I'm still using STP and it works great.

 

STP!!!!!???  I remember being a faithful user of this product, touted by Andy Granatelli to stop oil burning, reducing friction and prolonging engine life.  At a buck 19 a can, how could you go wrong?  I think it was proved later, to do none of the things that were claimed.  But, alas, I was duped like thousands of others.  It didn't hurt anything, but it didn't do anything for the motor internals either.  

 

Gas was still under 50 a gallon and you could get a whole meal at McDonalds for under a buck.  Disco hadn't surfaced yet, and, other than Viet Nam, stuff was mostly good.  

 

It was a time without trains for me. Cars, music and early adulthood were taking shape. I think I may still have a can of this stuff somewhere.  Think I'll go look for it.  Thanks for re-opening the memories.

They told me it was a good assembly lube.  I am currently using Marvel Mystery Oil in a couple of air cooled engines.  I do not know whether it does anything either, but the Army used it by the 55 gallon drum in WWII.

 

It is amazing what folks will spend money on for improved performance, with only the word of the manufacturer as evidence that it works.

 

I would think STP is too sticky for cold model train journals.

bob2,

That Marvel Mystery oil is great stuff.

I would put that into the crank case, a little in the gas tank and take off!!!!! 

But, for my trains I like gun oil, as it is light, thin and highly lubricating.

Besides, I have plenty of gun oil.

Ralph 

I have been using non-aerosol 'Lock - Ease' applied with a syringe fitted with a very small gauge hypodermic needle. My logic for this is I think 'Graphite' is a great lubricant and the liquid carrier in the Lock-Ease penetrates deeply and evaporates quickly.

Using the needle lets you reach WAY down inside and still be able to see what you are doing. AND you can apply really small drops of lubricant.

Gears: I like bob2' idea of using Lubriplate. Doesn't seem to dry up over time.

That's my 1.5 cents worth.

 

You might try "Dri Slide"

 

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1247

 

or Blaster "Dry Lube"

 

http://www.blastercorporation.com/

 

Simon

I used to use graphite on my locks - but all the locksmiths say "Tri-Flo".

 

For 2- railers, graphite is the kiss of death.  Like steel wool.

My only problem with graphite is it's very messy!  I like it for stuff like couplers that really want a dry lube, but for other moving parts I prefer a light oil. 

I've found, Lucus' Gun Oil to be very good. I use Red N' Tacky for everything else.