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I have space for a small (18' by 8' by 9' "U" shaped) switching layout in 3RS. Height is a regulare topic but what height is best (opinion) for a 3RS shelf type layout?

 

I am 5' 8" tall BTW. The layout will be very shallow. Atlas "O" with Caboose Industry ground throw's.

 

I am asking for personal opinions as ideas.

 

Rick

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Rick,

 

I'm (was) 5'-10" at one time.  When I had my layout in the garage I had it at 48".  Anything wider than 30" I had to get on something to reach.

 

When I moved the layout upstairs I built it 36" high, now I can reach all trackwork.

 

It was slightly easier to get under the 48" layout, but either height is a PITA (I wear bifocals) when looking up.

 

There were a couple of factors involved in the 36" height.  One was I already had some benchwork in place at 36" high, the other was on 2 sides of the room there was 1 knee wall at 36" and 1 at 48".  If I had used 48" that would have knocked off a foot on the width of my layout.

 

Given the choice, I would keep the 36" now because I can easily reach everywhere on the layout I need to reach without having to climb on something to do it.

I'm 6 feet.  My wife is 5 feet 2, Eyes of Blue.  My base benchwork level is 53 inches.  Puts my eyes on an overpass.  Puts her eyes standing in the seat of a Jeep on those 4 wheel drive roads in Colorado and New Mexico.  Helluva view.  Colorado and New Mexico, that is.  It's about the eyes, man.  Not the top of our heads. 

 

There is no right answer to your question - it is a matter of personal taste and preference. Do you want to look down on a miniature wonderland - or capture a trackside up close view highlighting the detail and mass of O scale rolling stock?

I'd recommend visiting a number of layouts and deciding which railroad viewing/operating perspective your find most satisfying - and go with it.

My preference was to have several scenes where I look up at the trains - much like I did as a boy. But I also wanted to do some way freight switching - done best chest high. On my railroad the Middle Division and Altoona yard/engine terminal is at 47" - a decent height for switching a yard while providing comfortable under table clearance for wiring and installing switch machines. My Pittsburg Division climbs from 47" at Altoona to suspended hidden staging loops at Gallitzen - at a height of 76". The tracks are on the forward edge of the benchwork (close to the viewing aisles) on a relatively narrow climbing up and around Horseshoe Curve to the Gallitzen tunnels. Many guests (especially HO/N modelers) comment favorably on the different feel they get seeing O scale close up is the trains work the grade. A secondary advantage of higher bench work (especially for around the room shelf railroads) is that shallow rock cuts and false front buildings look best when set at or above eye level and against a painted backdrops. It is amazing what you can do in O scale with only a couple of inches for scenery/buildings between the tracks and a wall. Even where I have 4' wide peninsula benchwork I’ve placed a double sided view block down the middle to divide the scene and provide a greater illusion of the trains going somewhere (vice being able to stand in one place and see that the trains are circling.  On the other hand my wife doesn’t like it – she would prefer the Roadside America/Lionel showroom style layout.  But it’s my railroad and I built it to my taste.  Take the time to consider what you like best in a model railroad - then build it and never look back until you move and get to start all over again (I'm in my 4th house, 4th O scale railroad).

 

 

Ed Rappe

Some observations I have made about how the trains appear to me.

 

1. If they are close to eye level, you tend not to notice the overhang when running larger engines or cars on 0-72 curves. I don't like the overhang of my 20" coaches even on my 0-120 curves. Looks much better the higher up it is.

 

2. When they are close to eye level, I notice the gaps. Between the trucks and the engines/cars. Also the space between cars is more noticeable, especially if you have not converted couplers to Kadees.

Originally Posted by MichMikeM:
  If you think you're ever going to have kids viewing your layout, go lower so they can see.  I've seen many a kid frustrated at not being able to view parts of layouts.

I didn't build my layout for kids, thus it is at 40" which allowed room enough for me to get under for wiring and repairs. I had/have step stools stored underneath for any kids that may show up. Now that our grandkids are growing and are taller, they no longer use the stool.

40" .... to the top of the base benchwork.

 

I started with that height because my first layout, while living in an apartment many moons ago, was built with Sievers Benchwork. Their options were 40 or 48.

 

I've never felt the need to adjust height. Mine are narrow, but long, switching layouts. I enjoy sitting in a comfortable chair and operating. Easy reach is important to me, too. I'm ~5'9 tall

 

Good luck.

Jim

 

(BTW, the Sievers Benchwork has lasted for decades .... sometimes stored in hot, humid conditions. Quality product and nice people.)

Last edited by CNJ Jim

I'm going to assume that since it's 3RS you're asking about, that viewing level for kids and such is not a primary consideration.

 

As others have said, there is no "optimum" layout height, but only the height that works best for you in terms of accessibility and the way you want to view your layout.

 

I'm 6'2" and the main level of my layout (it's not 3RS) is 43".  I wish it was several inches higher, even though that would make the back part less accessible.  At your height that 43" might be fine for the main level, again consistent with how you want to view your layout.  To my way of thinking--strictly a personal thing--having the track closer to eye level is a great way to view the action on a layout.  It's kind of akin to standing trackside.

 

All things considered, you'll really just have to go with what works best for you because no two individuals are alike when it comes to what really is a highly personal preference.

I am with Allan.  I started at 48"; then got the opportunity to expand.  Ripped it out and put four loops in - minimum 52".  Makes it easy to see where wheels are having problems and to spot short- circuits.  i suppose if I were looking for operation instead of testing, I would like my current height for train watching.  Ducking under was my initial motivation.

I have a buddy who has a 50 ft X 16 ft layout at about 24 to 30 inches.  It looks great even though I prefer heigthts like mine ant 53 inches.

 

But, I just gotta tell you that when he crawls under to work on it, it ain't pretty. It's an athletic event.  Or like working under a car.  But with all those legs supporting the layout it ain't like a car.  So, a creeper won't work.  When he's older and stiffer I'm concerned that that's where we'll find him if he goes missing.  Trapped by his layout.  Gone but with a smile on his face.  Probably have to tear out that part of the layout to get him out.

 

Turns out (luc of the draw, not planned) that with my benchwork at 53 inches I can sit in my office chair and my eyes are even with the bottom so I can relax and see under the layout.  Then with a lower stool I can sit erect (good posture makes for good workmanship, ahem!) while working.  Just gotta wear a gimme cap to protect my ever lengthening forehead. 

 

52 to 53 inches is the magical height all things considered.  I'm doubling down on that.  Great viewing on top and little comforts underneath.  

 

I have several stable stools with handholds for the younger grandchildren.  And at 53 inches they can't reach the trains with their nasty little fingers without the stools.  So, I rule in my kingdom.  (if nowhere else) 

Last edited by Austin Bill

I, like EBT Jim, used Sievers Benchwork system for the framework.  My modular layout stands 40 inches tall but I'm thinking about raising it to 48 inches.  I'm 6'7" and 48 inches would probably be a better viewing height.  I run my trains sitting on a stool.  Raising the layout 8 inches would put it close to eye level.  To me, looking through the scenery is better than looking down on it.

Ever consider a double decker?

Have you heard of the "mushroom" type layout?

 

These are two additional options you may have...

 

due to space I went with a double decker, lower level is 27 inches and is great operating via a rolling desk chair(s).

 

The upper deck is 52 inches viewing via a bars stool or just standing is comfortable as well. I am 6 foot 5, and my wife is 5 foot 3 and she can still see the upper deck.

 

The reason I bring up the mushroom layout is its an alternative for even more layout space in a around the room double decker layout, if you wish to go that route.

 

 

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Rick,

 

You may think I'm evading your question but, you might want to first write down what you want to achieve (is it for kids or adults or a mixture, or just yourself) and then do some kind of a mock up for height, even if it is only marking lines on a wall, or stacking up boxes. How far can you reach at a certain height? All of us are a bit different as to how tall we are and how far we can reach, so choose whatever will accommodate you best as you are the guy that will be maintaining it. If you can visit some layouts that may be a big help in guiding your choice. Do you want to view at eye level or look down or up? I like your idea of a shelf layout and you will want to be able to reach any part of it without a lot of trouble. Also keep in mind, things will not likely get easier as you age, so plan for the future!

 

Good Luck!

Simon

I'm 5'8" and my layout is in the upper 40's; I can't measure it's actual height, at the moment.

 

A while back, on a nice summer day, I dismantled my layout and brought all my track outside; and built a layout on my lawn. Besides, seeing my trains in a visually superior natural setting; I really liked this new viewpoint(looking down on them).

 

An aerial(bird's eye) view has it's pros...

 

 

Rick

Originally Posted by Hot Water:

I went with 40" height.

 

However, you might want to request the WebMaster move this question/subject to the Layout Design Forum, where you will get MANY more answers/suggestions, since "layout height" really is NOT exclusively 3RS modeling related.

Why is this "NOT 3RS modeling related"?  I would think the layout would be a important part. ??

 

My height is 40" less waste of lumber. Just keep in mind you'll be working both under and on top of the layout.  Decide on the lesser of to evils. No right or wrong answer.

 

Kurt

Originally Posted by Bessemer643:
Originally Posted by Hot Water:

I went with 40" height.

 

However, you might want to request the WebMaster move this question/subject to the Layout Design Forum, where you will get MANY more answers/suggestions, since "layout height" really is NOT exclusively 3RS modeling related.

Why is this "NOT 3RS modeling related"?  I would think the layout would be a important part. ??

 

My height is 40" less waste of lumber. Just keep in mind you'll be working both under and on top of the layout.  Decide on the lesser of to evils. No right or wrong answer.

 

Kurt

Agreed!  The proper perspective affects the realism of a scene.

 

Dave

As it says on one vendor's website, "track is a model, too" and in my opinion fair game for discussion in the 3RS forum.

 

My 53 inch lower level is 100% 2RS (2 rail O scale) 32 X 17 shelf layout with DC or DCC.  I have a lot of 3RS equipment and really enjoy 3RS.  And once in a while I want to run my pre-war full scale Lionel 700E Hudson.

 

(BTW IMO the pre-war full scale Lionel 700E is the ORIGINAL king daddy of 3RS engines. It's on display sitting next to some really nice brass steam engines and at the tender young age of 75 years it definitely holds it's own). 

 

Anyway, I'm installing a simple upper loop between 12 and 14 inches above the main level using MTH Scaletrax. The Scaletrax looks great with 3RS equipment at any height.  And at this height the center rail is out of sight for anyone 6 feet tall or shorter.  This upper level will have a 60 inch radius and no turnouts.  It will be wired so that I can flip a switch and use it for 2RS DC/DCC or 3RS DCS/TMCC and of conventional control for the Hudson.     

 

Life is good.

Last edited by Austin Bill
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