Old Wood Model: How to cut doors and windows

It may take multiple passes even with a new blade. There is an alternative given that the openings are partially cut. They make a blade with fine saw teeth that is the same size as a #11 blade. Micromark carries them. You may need to drill some small holes in 2 corners to get it started. Then clean up with a file.

Great idea, Dave, I was thinking about that.

A jewelers fine tooth scroll saw blade. MicroMark sells them also. 

Thanks, Patrick. Another good idea. I think I’ll try that, as it’s hard to use an Exacto for any length of time at my age.

@Dave_C posted:

It may take multiple passes even with a new blade. There is an alternative given that the openings are partially cut. They make a blade with fine saw teeth that is the same size as a #11 blade. Micromark carries them. You may need to drill some small holes in 2 corners to get it started. Then clean up with a file.

Second the recommendation! 

Just finished the second of a couple old wood/metal Athearn 50' boxcar kits.  The side underlayment is 1/8" basswood into which they've partially cut the door openings.  After gluing the sides to the rest of the wood core structure (ends, floor, roof) you'll have to finish cutting out the door openings.  I use those Micro-Mark serrated #11 blades to finish the job.  They cut on the pull stroke...Japanese style...which is a big help for controlling the cut....IMHO, of course.  Those blades come in 3 different serrations (tpi...teeth per inch).  I use the highest tpi for most of this sort of work.  For those  Yank buildings I'd do the same.  (I have a couple to build....someday...when I get:

KD

Thanks, I have one of those serrated blades for my Exacto, but it may be too coarse as far as the teeth go. I’ll see if I can get the higher tpi blades. I think they would work well on the window after drilling pilot holes.

You should be able to cut 1/16" stick with a good sharp X-acto blade.

I prefer a #23 scalpel or if I'm impatient, a regular standard utility knife with a fresh blade.  Cross grain takes a few passes; with grain is sometimes too easy so take it gently.

Thicker materials get problematic, but you can also just drill out the center and then just carve away the rest.

I'd just die cut the door and window openings with an Xacto chisel blade.  Just hold the knife perpendicular to the wood and tap it with a hammer.  Gives you a nice clean cut.

@wild mary posted:

I'd just die cut the door and window openings with an Xacto chisel blade.  Just hold the knife perpendicular to the wood and tap it with a hammer.  Gives you a nice clean cut.

Another good & viable option.  For that matter, a good decent wood chisel & mallet should work too.

@mwb posted:

Another good & viable option.  For that matter, a good decent wood chisel & mallet should work too.

Absolutely, just make sure the bevel of the chisel is facing the scrap area so you don't distort the finished part.

I use a scapel blade, #11, they are very thin and probably fit the grooves.   As mentioned multiple easy passes work better than one hard one.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I’ll take it slow and see what works best.

@mwb posted:

Another good & viable option.  For that matter, a good decent wood chisel & mallet should work too.

Well, my experience from the School of Hard Knocks re chisel blades...X-acto or otherwise...on old basswood/pine sheet parts like this has been very mixed.  The dryness of the old stock means it's ready to split at the first opportunity.  A chisel-pointed blade whacked upon to cut is also a wedge applying a 90° force in the wedge direction.  While that might be most useful when cutting across the grain, it can be disastrous when cutting with the grain...reminiscent of the mongo wedge used when splitting cord wood for the fireplace/pit.

Even if the with-the-grain cuts are done first with a simple THIN bladed knife/scalpel/razor blade, following up with a regular chisel-pointed blade/tool on the cross grain cuts has not guaranteed keeping the part in tact.  Multiple aligned cutouts in the same piece of old, dry wood??....really pressing your luck adding separation forces with chisel points.

Again, just my own experience.  Others may have a better/sharper tools/touch/karma/whatever yielding different results on old dry wood.  For me the 100% answer has been the thin-bladed '#11' saw blades.  Which, BTW, have a decent blade point, meaning all you need to get it started is a short length pierce-through (regular #11 blade, e.g.) to get the serrated blade started.

All of which still falls in the TEHO realm...

And....FWIW.

KD