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I haven't had any problems with mine (four PS3 steam locomotives), but I possibly handle and operate my trains a lot more gently than some folks.  Once I have the tether connected securely and the locomotive operating properly, I generally keep the locomotive and tender connected, if possible, when moving them from the layout to a display case, or vice versa.

I'm not a fan, but all the other methods of connecting locomotive and tender have drawbacks as well. The traditional cable method has that ugly wire and it can get damaged or work loose. The Lionel IR tether can get knocked out of line and then it stops working until you bend the drawbar back into shape. The MTH setup is a pain to connect and disconnect, but it's dead solid once you get it snapped in right, and it's the least intrusive visually, much less than a cable or the big IR box on a newer Lionel engine. On the whole, the inconvenience is minor. 

I've only got one PS3 steamer (I also have a PS3 GP9 Diesel) that I picked up about a month ago - the Imperial B6 0-6-0. I haven't done a ton of connecting/disconnecting the drawbar but so far it has held up well. I can see where over time, the connection may loosen requiring replacing the plug/drawbar assembly. 

Another point I will add in.  I've got some old, old PS1 locos with tethers that look badly torn and frayed, but the trains work perfectly (Well, actually, not, they're PS1 so they are a pain at times, but they work as good as when new).   Surprisingly I have never had one of the plugs go bad, which is what I would expect to happen first.

Originally Posted by david1:

The best way to hook them up is to lay a soft cloth on the table or layout and lay the engine and tender on the cloth, hook them together, and press firm. No need to leave them hooked up. 

 

I like them and it makes the engine and tender look great.


and once on the cloth lay them both on their side; it makes hook up a lot easier.

I'm curious...haven't yet had the chance to own a multiple-unit PS3 set...are the tether hookups much different than those that are found in PS2 engines?

If you are talking about multi-unit diesels, the new PS/3 sets use the same tethers as before, with the plugs under the couplers. I got a new set of F units a couple of months ago with that type of tether. Like the steamers, the diesels are easiest to hook up lying on their sides. The new drawbars with connections built in are for steam locomotives, and were in fact introduced before the change from PS/2 to PS/3. I have a couple of late PS/2 steamers with the new style drawbars. 

The Premier PS2 Tethers were in the Drawbar for a couple years before PS3 hit.

Those of us running RailKing didn't get the upgrade until PS3.

 

And to be on topic, I have one PS3 Steamer with the wired Drawbar VS the tether.

I have only disconected it once but it seems to lock in place well and works just fine. And looks MUCH better.

Now I just need to get that pack of alternate length Drawbars. I don't run tight curves anymore and I can use a shorter one.

It remains to be seen whether MTH will come up with a way to retrofit the new-style tethers. Otherwise the PS/3 kits will have to use conventional wired tethers. The use of wireless tethers on late PS/2 steamers will complicate matters further, although I doubt too many people will want to go to the expense of converting when there's not all that much difference in operation. 
 
Originally Posted by Bob Delbridge:

I don't have any with the wireless tether, but from what I've seen you can't simply swap out an old cable-type for the new tether-type.  The connections are so physically different that upgrading from PS1/2 to PS3 may be impossible on some engines.

Originally Posted by Ron Blume:

Are these drawbar teathers going to be incorporated into Standard Gauge Steam by LCT???  Do the LCT "O" streamliner sets have tethers of any type???  Sorry, I am confused here!!!  Ron B.

 

Not sure about LCT Standard G, but I do have a PS3 O gauge tinplate loco (262e) and tender that came with a wireless tether (or drawbar). No problems so far. Works fine. As Allan mentions up above, I think that one of the keys is to carefully hook it up and try to limit disconnecting/reconnecting as much as possible.

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