I'm in the planning stages to build a shelf-style layout in my 20 x 20 family room. It will be a 2 track main with 45" and 49.5" radius curves- most of the track is new code 148 Atlas, with a transition grade down to a staging yard. I have a couple of No.5 Atlas switches, but need more switches for crossover tracks, staging yards,etc. I've heard no. 5 and no. 7.5 Atlas switches aren't currently available- what other brands of switches are out there?
Geno
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Check out "Oscale Turnouts" and "Signature Switch Co". I have turnouts from both and have been very happy with them (something I can't say about the Atlas turnouts). Oscale Turnouts have more detail but Signature Switch Co are incredibly smooth and durable. Not sure what the turnaround time is for either. Both had a backlog last time I ordered turnouts.
Both the afore mentioned supplier offer a superior product compared with Atlas. They have backlogs because people are buying these better switches. Investigate there product offering, then order what you want and be patient, because there really worth the wait.
Bob
Geno,
I second the sentiments regarding Signature Switch.
Since this is an "around the walls" RR, why not increase the radius to 60"/64" or better so you can run whatever you might acquire in the future. To limit yourself to the Atlas offerings of curved track is not a good idea. Laying flex track is not hard.
Ed
I also concur with Signature Switch. He made me a #5 for me (which I needed for an industrial siding and which was not in his usual product line-up) for the same price as his #6 turnouts.
I agree with Ed Kelly, in encouraging you to think larger radius for your around the walls layout. Signature Swtich will also make custom-radius curved turnouts for you to fit any special places you have.
It really is ok to build a O scale model railroad with smaller radius curves, guys.
Jeff C
Disagree. Use the widest radius curves that you can fit in your space. Opinion.
Somehow I knew I'd be seeing you on this thread after I wrote my post, Bob. 
Jeff C
I strongly disagree any recommendation to go with " the widest radius curves that can fit in your space" - unless all you want to do with your trains is loop running. Planning a railroad to optimize operation in a given space (2600 sq ft in my case) requires some very interesting analytical trade offs between radius, turnout numbers (curved turnouts pay dividends), track centers, and aisle widths. To learn from a real expert - get a copy of John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation - then make your own decisions based on the kind of equipment and operations you want to run.
Ed Rappe
I misread the original radius. It's about the the maximum I can fit in the extension I want to put in. It will be along two walls in the finished rec room so the track (on shelves) has to coexist with furniture and other folks. In the corner, I probably will be at 42" or maybe 46" which will work just fine. If it looks too sharp, I'll put a building or fascia in front to disguise. But it's industrial so I'm sure it will be OK.
Any larger radius and the corner curved track will be too far out in the room.
Just a thought....................I wonder if Ross Custom Switches would consider making 2-Rail track and 2-Rail Switches?
Regards,
Swafford
Keystone Ed has a great point and has built a great example of that principle.
Shape of the layout room also feeds into overall planning.
I am going around the wall in a 2000 sq ft Tee shaped basement using 72" radius in four inside corners and two outside corners. The primary effort is to feature long cosmetic curves. Anything larger than 72" with this shape configuration makes things too awkward for me. 84" or 96" curves would eliminate certain features and result in loopitis.
Ed K's basement is a the best of both worlds, basically a big by long squarish
room in which he is making a coal hauling master piece. Could use most any radius IMO. tt
" I have a couple of No.5 Atlas switches, but need more switches for crossover tracks, staging yards,etc. I've heard no. 5 and no. 7.5 Atlas switches aren't currently available- what other brands of switches are out there?"
Given the cost of commercial O scale turnouts and the limited choice of sizes I'd encourage any 2 rail layout builder to spend a few hours learning to build their own turnouts. The parts for one only cost a few bucks so the savings are great and the ability to build them to fit your own needs and repair them if necessary even better. Despite popular opinion building switches is one of the easiest things to do on a layout, much easier than building a good tree or scratch built building.....DaveB
Just a thought....................I wonder if Ross Custom Switches would consider making 2-Rail track and 2-Rail Switches?
Regards,
Swafford
I'm using 45" and 49.5" radius curves because my room is only 400 sq. ft. I know that's "tight" for 2-rail, but I already have the curves and I would like to have some straight track too- lol.
I'm considering buying switches from costerp, an OGR member here who builds switches. Has anyone bought his switches? If so, can you please share your opinions of the quality of his work. I think the price is reasonable- I think I could handle laying ties on cork roadbed.
Geno
2600 sq. ft. is somewhat different from 400. I would guess that a 2600 sq. ft. railroad could have interesting operation with 72" radius, but am guessing that 400 sq. ft. would be only a couple of loops at 72". Perhaps in that situation 48" is appropriate for an operator.
If you can do an interesting layout with a minimum 72" radius, why on earth would you tighten it up, unless your goal was a realistic waterfront operation?
I have a lot of stuff that needs more than 72", including my 21" passenger cars. I have a 60" loop because that is all the room that was left over after the outer loops.
Loops are fine for me, but are not good for true operators.
Always check the rate of divergence of custom turnouts. It is relative easy to scratch build a turnout but just as easy to do it wrong.
Someone recently had posted a photo of a custom switch. It may have been the camera or the lens or the angle shot but the rate of divergence looked a tad eccentric unless it was an industrial turnout. Be careful.
You will not go wrong with Brad Strong's Signature Switch or 0 Scale Turnouts. I have both, Both worth the money. I favor Brad's work because he makes total custom configurations. No matter what I need he can make a switch to fit.
Check out the new Atlas switch prices.
I'm using 45" and 49.5" radius curves because my room is only 400 sq. ft. I know that's "tight" for 2-rail, but I already have the curves and I would like to have some straight track too- lol.
I'm considering buying switches from costerp, an OGR member here who builds switches. Has anyone bought his switches? If so, can you please share your opinions of the quality of his work. I think the price is reasonable- I think I could handle laying ties on cork roadbed.
Geno
Search on here for Paul Lally.
He has a beautiful "small" 2R layout with some really tight curves. He has disguised them well but he is also not running huge engines or cars.
I just checked and I have some temporary track in one corner that I thought was Atlas 42"R but it was 36"R. My main space is problematic since most of it is only 10' wide.
Why compromise with curves less than 72" radius - to get longer and more operationally interesting runs (like a challenging helper district) while seeing only one right of way in the field of view, or to fit a branch line in a narrow area of the basement. Attached are several photos of my former railroad that illustrate that a T1's and 80' passenger cars can indeed handle 54" radius curves without major modification. Another photo shows a Key H10 (fully flanged) on a tight 42" radius wye at the end of a branch line. Would it have looked better with larger curves - yes but I would have not been able to emulate Horseshoe Curve operations or have a fun to operate branch line in the available space.
Ed Rappe
PS - My current basement had enough extra width so that I could fit in a 4 track 62"r Horseshoe Curve climbing in the correct direction. I've added a shot of the new railroad showing what John Armstrong terms a "scenic curve" and the unfinished Horseshoe Curve scene. Also shown is the Oceola Mills yard at the end of a much longer branch line. This time the branch minimums are 54"r and with not as steep ruling grade.
Ed,
Superb, just superb.
Ed K
X2- looking at those pics makes me want to get some benchwork up and start laying tracks. Very nice work Ed.
If I go with a handmade switch, who sells the ties? What material are they made from? Thanks for answering some 2-rail rookie questions.
Geno
If I go with a handmade switch, who sells the ties? What material are they made from?
Kappler. Usually sugar pine.
Right-O-Way makes switch components and ties. He purposely keeps his prices slightly under Kappler & St. Albert. He cuts the ties himself and they're made from sugar pine.
The quality of his products are top notch & always receive the highest reviews.
If you go to the websites for some of the current switch builders you'll see his parts being used.
The owner, Lou Cross, is a 92 year old WWII vet and conducts himself and his business with old school practices. You call or write him and he'll talk to you like an old friend and mail you a brochure if you want. He now has a website in development but it's actually administered by a friend of his.
The best way to contact him is to call him at 559 665-1001. He is out of town right now but should be home Wednesday afternoon.
I'll try to email you his brochure.
Jay
Anybody know how to get a hold of Lou Cross or Right O Way? I called his number yesterday and today but it just rings and there is no voicemail option.
Martin,
He's around but is spending most of his time working on his layout. Hopefully, when we're 92 we can have the same experience.
Right now the best time to call him is around lunch or diner time. He's on PST some you'll have to calculate the times.
We bought him an answering machine a few years ago but he never hooked it up. Because some many folks are having problems getting in touch with him, Bob Jakl (with Elizabeth's help) are going to make him install the machine.
I'll let him know you're trying to contact him. If you want to message me your phone number I can have him call you.
Jay
I sent you an email Jay.
" I have a couple of No.5 Atlas switches, but need more switches for crossover tracks, staging yards,etc. I've heard no. 5 and no. 7.5 Atlas switches aren't currently available- what other brands of switches are out there?"
Given the cost of commercial O scale turnouts and the limited choice of sizes I'd encourage any 2 rail layout builder to spend a few hours learning to build their own turnouts. The parts for one only cost a few bucks so the savings are great and the ability to build them to fit your own needs and repair them if necessary even better. Despite popular opinion building switches is one of the easiest things to do on a layout, much easier than building a good tree or scratch built building.....DaveB
"How is the wiring done? I know you need a hot wire & negative but does wire run full length on both rails plus do wires have to be run to the frog using the DCS system of power?"
Generally 2 rail layouts have continuous positive and negative buss wires run under the table approximately following the track plan. Feeders from the buss wires to the track are soldered every few feet, this ensures power continuity in case of gaps or bad joints in the rails. So hand built turnouts just get a positive and a negative wire from the buss wire to the appropriate rails of the turnout. The frog is gapped for insulation to avoid shorts, and can be left dead or can have some kind of polarity switching power applied( from a switch machine or a blue point controller for example) If he loco wheel base is long enough for power to get to one end of the loco it can run thru dead frogs but adding the correct polarity power is good insurance against stalls. If you are thinking about building turnouts from scratch feel free to ask more questions.....DaveB
Still need some Atlas #5's? If so PM me.
Alan, If you are going to do DCS forgo a buss. Use home runs in a star fashion for proper signal transmission. Individual blocks are fed from a MTH, Minitronics or Miller lighting terminal strip or a pair of cobbled up 110/220 ground terminal strips.
The tracks are fed directly from the terminal strip in twisted pairs which also makes it straight forward to toggle each block.
Barry's book on DCS is a strong recommendation.
Photo above is a 12 port.
Photo below shows both a 12 and 24 port.
You will be wire free with battery R/C.
For an average size layout, DCS will use more wire than a buss set up.
With DCS there will be no splicing of drops onto buss'. IMO,the quantity of wire used would not be a deciding factor.
If you read this K. Ed, is there a track plan I could see?
I have to start rebuilding my layout. I would like to emulate yours. Very nice work.
Somewhere I have photos of another Ed's 2r excellent layout. The one with the overhead loop? I have no memory left!!
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