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1.  The bell and horn/whistle polarity for a Powermaster is determined inside the PM with respect to the AC voltage feeding the output.  Reversing either the brick's primary or secondary will not change the horn or bell polarity at the A and U terminals of the PM. 

2.  Lionel apparently started with 135 watt bricks that were "positive in -> negative out".  The early 180 watt bricks were "positive -> positive", which caused problems (but is more logical!)  To retain compatibility with the 135W bricks, they offered reversing connectors for the 180W units.  New 180W units are back to "positive -> negative".

Originally Posted by Dale Manquen:

1.  The bell and horn/whistle polarity for a Powermaster is determined inside the PM with respect to the AC voltage feeding the output.  Reversing either the brick's primary or secondary will not change the horn or bell polarity at the A and U terminals of the PM. 

2.  Lionel apparently started with 135 watt bricks that were "positive in -> negative out".  The early 180 watt bricks were "positive -> positive", which caused problems (but is more logical!)  To retain compatibility with the 135W bricks, they offered reversing connectors for the 180W units.  New 180W units are back to "positive -> negative".

True.  We were talking about changing the PM output to determine how they were working, with conventional.

 

If 3 PM are working correctly, than may be the Z-4000 is not wired correctly at input.

 

Interesting, for newer items, unless one has been worked on.  G

Originally Posted by Dale Manquen:

1.  The bell and horn/whistle polarity for a Powermaster is determined inside the PM with respect to the AC voltage feeding the output.  Reversing either the brick's primary or secondary will not change the horn or bell polarity at the A and U terminals of the PM. 

2.  Lionel apparently started with 135 watt bricks that were "positive in -> negative out".  The early 180 watt bricks were "positive -> positive", which caused problems (but is more logical!)  To retain compatibility with the 135W bricks, they offered reversing connectors for the 180W units.  New 180W units are back to "positive -> negative".

Dale:

Are you saying it is ok to switch the pins on the output side of the power bricks and eliminate the adapter plug on the input side?

I want to thank everyone for their comments. I have learned a lot from this thread. I have a temporary fix for the power bricks on the input side with an adapter I shaved the wide plug on so I could reverse the power cords for the two bricks. The phase problem was solved. 

I decided to use the adapter plugs since down the line I will most likely buy another power brick to replace the Z4000. 

Thanks to all

Joe

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