Paint Removal

I've removed paint with brake fluid, and I've also bead blasted some shells.

Several substances will remove paint from Plastic and not attack the plastic,in most cases.  The rate you dilute them will determine how fast they act and how much control you have.  If you wish to completely strip down to the bare plastic 91% isopropel alcohol will remove the paint using a soft brush to help it along. It is easy to find and relatively safe. Lettering can be removed if you use a soft brush to coax it along faster than the rest of the paint on the model.  My favorite because it is really cheap is Lye, Sodium Hydroxide.  Use Goggles it can scar your eyes though you would have to leave it without rinsing for some time. I used to use Red Devil but they stopped selling lye some time ago, Some drain cleaners are pure lye I have a two pound can "ComStar Commercial Lye" that I bought at a local hardware store for $8. Last time I bought Red Devil it was .79 cents for a one pound can that lasted me almost ten years. Some drain cleaners have metal chips in them so look and if you see little bits of silver or gray it is not pure Sodium Hydroxide.  There is a learning curve as to the dilution that will get the job done.  I used to dump the full 16oz can of Red Devil in a 5 gallon plastic bucket the kind sheet rock mud comes in with a snap on lid. Then fill the bucket with water around 80% full.  Once I bought an American Flyer passenger set at a garage sale that someone sprayed the cars with silver and since the aluminum in silver paint reacts fast with the sodium hydroxide I was able to remove all the silver with hardly any effect on the green factory paint. I have also removed decals with little effect to the paint. And last as GRJ mentioned is Brake Fluid it is particularly good on water based paints and won't attack most plastic or metal, which can't be said about Lye. But it won't remove all paints at least in a timely manner. Oven cleaner contains lye and I have used it. Guess there are numerous substances that will work but which ever one you choose experiment on something you don't care about and try it on something you want to completely strip first. Before you go trying to remove lettering or decals where there is some finesse involved.  And then there are Air Erasers that are basically sand blasting in miniature. They use a fine powder likely pumice to remove graphics and lettering. I have had one on my wish list for years but don't own one yet.   I have watched a friend make a rubber cement mast and remove graphics with an air eraser. After a dull coat you could not tell where the graphics were and I would guess 80% of the paint underneath was untouched.  J

I have removed paint from tin plate to post war plastic and castings, by dipping them in heavy duty floor cleaner.(bought by gallon). leave overnight and wash with spray hose and dry.   This will remove all paint and has not hurt any of my plastic items. Not so friendly with aluminum. Ok with castings. wear gloves. Roy

Purple degreaser (not for all metals, great on plastic.

Lettering can be removed with 'Lectric- shave and a rag (Per Gi-raffe Mitch.)

  I tried Old Spice. It worked great, about sandpaper's pace without the scratches.

. Finally a use for gift aftershave . It did degloss the plastic slightly, but did a nice clean job over all.

Roy O posted:

I have removed paint from tin plate to post war plastic and castings, by dipping them in heavy duty floor cleaner.(bought by gallon). leave overnight and wash with spray hose and dry.   This will remove all paint and has not hurt any of my plastic items. Not so friendly with aluminum. Ok with castings. wear gloves. Roy

Roy, can you give us a brand name or the company which made it ?