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As with any paintwork, the more thorough the preparation, the better the end result.  Running the engine on maintenance rollers, minus it's connecting rod assemblies, allows you to stripe the tires by brush as they turn.  A little practice and patience can produce even coverage that's almost flawless.  A solid rest close to the work gives you a place to steady your hand as you allow the wheel to drag the paint off the brush.  I try to use enamels for this purpose, as paints such as acrylic or lacquer dry too quickly and foul the application.

Bruce 

PAUL ROMANO posted:

Chris, some of the Lionel steam engines made around that time have problems with the paint adhering to the drivers. I have a Lionel S.P. Atlantic and the paint will not stick to the drivers. Something in the casting makes it flake off and leave little gray spots.

Paul,

 

No kidding. I have its sister... the NP Atlantic and this is what's happening 

No reason to take anything apart. Just put your engine on a roller stand. Run it slowly and apply paint with a small brush. Make sure the tires are not dirty or greasy first. Dip a q-tip in laquer thinner or acetone and hold it on the tire as the wheels turn.

If you don't have a roller stand, just loosen the screws on the gear box (on the bottom of the engine) and the worm gear will have enough play in it, you can turn the wheels by hand. When you're done, remember to tighten the gear box screws... but do NOT over tighten them. If you strip them, you're screwed

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Shiny steel tires:

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Blacked out tires. While you have the black paint out, hit those engine truck wheels so they are actually black instead of dark grey

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Last edited by Laidoffsick

I do this same thing to almost all my engines now, Usually right out of the box. I even hit the truck/pilot and tender wheels. I use MicroLux "Engine Black" which is pretty darn close to the original paint on the drivers. Throw a semi gloss or matte clear on top of it to fine tune it. but I usually don't.

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