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I finally unearthed my Lionel Santa Fe heavyweight passenger car set, I had stashed it thinking I'd one day fix the spotted windows.  I decided that day had arrived, so I opened one up to see what I'd need.  I noticed that half the cars had tinted windows and half the cars had clear windows.  That didn't really look right, so I decided on clear windows for all the cars.  I bought some 1/4" double-sided tape and some clear PET plastic sheets for the windows.

The LED's were simple for everything but the observation car, the AC comes right up to the original light strip, so I just used that convenient jumper to bring AC to my lighting regulator and then applied the LED strip and connected it to the DC output of the LED regulator board.

The window strips were originally secured with some sort of double-sided tape that had deteriorated over the years, so after peeling out the old spotted windows, I had to clean the tape off, that was the biggest issue!  After the mess was all cleaned up, I could start with the new window install.  I used Naphtha (lighter fluid) for the clean-up, it didn't affect any of the paint and it cut the old glue well.

After cleaning up the old window installation, it was simply a process of applying the double-sided tape above and below the window openings, cutting the plastic to fit, and sticking it in, very simple!

Pass Car Windows N1

Pass Car Windows N2

The LED strips were equally simple, this is the Station Sounds Diner.

Pass Car Windows N3

Here are the before and after pictures, you can see the spots in the windows of the before shot.  This was a common issue with this vintage car from Lionel, apparently some adhesive they used outgassed, I never did hear a good explanation of what happened to cause the spots.

Before LED Installation

Pass Car Windows N4

After LED Installation

Pass Car Windows N5

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Images (5)
  • Pass Car Windows N1
  • Pass Car Windows N2
  • Pass Car Windows N3
  • Pass Car Windows N4
  • Pass Car Windows N5
Original Post

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Very nice looking job, John!  That is what I have been told in the past.  Adhesives that aren't allowed time to fully cure before putting the car together will spot, fog, or even craze the acetate or other film in windows.  Some double sided tape adhesives must fit in that category.  The 1/24th scale model cars I built in my teens and early 20s with no open windows fogged over time.  I still have a dozen of them stashed in a cupboard with no room to display them.

@feet posted:

Why they put that green window tint in passenger cars is beyond me.  I don't like it at all.

GRJ is using clear plastic sheets for the windows.

I believe the green tint in the LED version is because white LEDs are fundamentally BLUE LEDs that are color-shifted to appear white to the human eye.  It appears the interiors of his cars have a YELLOW tint.  Mix BLUE+YELLOW and you get GREEN!

Incandescent bulbs have relatively less BLUE energy for the same apparent brightness as perceived by the eye.  That's why his original photo does not appear as green as the LED version.

Another contributing factor may be the setting on his digital camera (where you choose daylight, incandescent, fluorescent, etc., or let the camera automatically select the light source type).  The camera software then compensates for the relative color spectrum which can shift the digital image relative to what a human perceives.  In other words, the green may not be as noticeable in-person.

If it's a deal breaker, the interior surface could be re-painted though that sounds like a lot of work.  If I were doing it, I'd experiment with the LED color whether using tinting paint on the LED lenses or perhaps switching to yellow LEDs depending on the era modeled.

@stan2004 posted:

GRJ is using clear plastic sheets for the windows.

I believe the green tint in the LED version is because white LEDs are fundamentally BLUE LEDs that are color-shifted to appear white to the human eye.  It appears the interiors of his cars have a YELLOW tint.  Mix BLUE+YELLOW and you get GREEN!

Incandescent bulbs have relatively less BLUE energy for the same apparent brightness as perceived by the eye.  That's why his original photo does not appear as green as the LED version.

Another contributing factor may be the setting on his digital camera (where you choose daylight, incandescent, fluorescent, etc., or let the camera automatically select the light source type).  The camera software then compensates for the relative color spectrum which can shift the digital image relative to what a human perceives.  In other words, the green may not be as noticeable in-person.

If it's a deal breaker, the interior surface could be re-painted though that sounds like a lot of work.  If I were doing it, I'd experiment with the LED color whether using tinting paint on the LED lenses or perhaps switching to yellow LEDs depending on the era modeled.

I should have said why Lionel used green tinted windows.  Gunrunner John's windows are fine.

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