There are no pics on the website, these are made- are they not?? Can someone please post a pic of this switch, preferably next to a vintage Lionel 42 switch to make a comparison.
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Some pics in another post of Ross and MTH O72 switches for Standard Gauge:
https://ogrforum.com/t...ard-gauge-switches-1
Comparison of MTH O42 and O72 Standard Gauge switch sizes with SCARM:
The straight legs for both are 14" long. The curved legs match standard O42 and O72 curves.
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I think it is important to note that the LGB switch motors on Ross Standard Gauge switches can be mounted on either side of the switch. Where space is tight, this feature provides greater flexibility in track planning.
Though not as colorful or dramatic as the red and green direction lights used on MTH switches, LGB does sell two types of switch "lanterns" that can be plugged into LGB switch motors to provide a visual indication of the direction of the switch.
To operate Ross switches, I recommend the surface-mounted Piko switch control box #35260. It automatically converts the AC power needed by our SG trains into the DC power required to operate the LGB switch motors.
Bob Nelson
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Bob, that Piko control is a great idea; never saw that before but I may just add that to my supplies list.
Carey, these switches are worth every penny; you won't regret buying them. I've said it before and I'll say it again: thanks to Ross Custom Switches and USA Track, there has never been a better time to operate Standard Gauge trains than right now.
The Ross 72 switch has the same track footprint as the MTH 72 turnout. Drawback of Ross is the DC motor which makes non-derailing difficult. Price of $150. MTH switches can be purchased for about half. They work well for me. Did have to trim track to fit on base. I did nothing to my frogs as others have. The super 381 has a clearance problem and maybe the Brute also.
Cosmetically in a tinplate environment the MTH switch is much more attractive in the green. They do make a black version also.
Decent original Lionel 42 switches work fine and sell for about $25 on E-Bay.
On my layout I run the 72 loop with Ross because I have a super 381. The outside 87 loop has MTH 72 turnouts because I use the non-derailing feature to run a single train over the outer and middle loop. My inner loop is a 42 figure 8 and not connected to the other loops.
I included a couple of photos showing a Ross and MTH switch in the same photo.
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Ace posted:Some pics in another post of Ross and MTH O72 switches for Standard Gauge:
https://ogrforum.com/t...ard-gauge-switches-1
Comparison of MTH O42 and O72 Standard Gauge switch sizes with SCARM:
The straight legs for both are 14" long. The curved legs match standard O42 and O72 curves.
Ace, are these two shown via SCARM a RH or a LH?. Looking down on this from above, I need the opposite of yours to come off the main loop and go to the Pride Lines shed. also I don't rely want Dc power. I'm used to manually switching my Atlas O- three rail switches by moving the little lever.
In addition to the side clearance problems inherent in the design of the MTH switches, several small Standard Gauge trolleys and engines will not pass cleanly through them without loosing power and/or derailing. For example, my McCoy handcar stops or derails whenever it passes over an MTH switch as does my Lionel trolley. This problem does not exist with the Ross switch. Everything passes smoothly over it. On the SGMA layouts at Trainfest, we have never had a problem with the Ross switches. This cannot be said for the MTH switches.
Lastly, read what Arno says about Ross switches. In his view they are #1.
https://ogrforum.com/t...ard-gauge-switches-1
Bob Nelson
navy.seal posted:In addition to the side clearance problems inherent in the design of the MTH switches, several small Standard Gauge trolleys and engines will not pass cleanly through them without loosing power and/or derailing. For example, my McCoy handcar stops or derails whenever it passes over an MTH switch as does my Lionel trolley. This problem does not exist with the Ross switch. Everything passes smoothly over it. On the SGMA layouts at Trainfest, we have never had a problem with the Ross switches. This cannot be said for the MTH switches.
Bob Nelson
The MTH switch has plastic rails where the center-rail rollers have to cross the running rails, while the Ross switch has metal rail sections which appear to be electrically switched according to the route?
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These switches are simply the best thing I've seen in SG track since Kris Model Trains came out with 72" curves in the 70's. With the known issues of the other brands, these switches are money well-spent. Seeing pictures of them is one thing, but when you see one for real and hold it in your hand, it becomes very clear that this is a high-quality product that Steve at RCS did a lot of work to develop. You can go cheaper with Lionel or MTH switches, but you get what you pay for. Buy Ross and you won't have to replace them with something better, because there is nothing better.
As my auto mechanic once said to me: "The most expensive set of tires for your car is the cheapest set of tires for your car."
On the RCS website under the heading of Std. Gauge switches, besides the 72, they also list a #4. What is that, please?
A #4 switch is a more gradual turnout than the O-72. On the O-72 switch, the turnout portion is basically a section of 72" curve track, but on a #4, the turnout is more gradual and comes out straight, allowing you to put passing sidings closer together and getting (hopefully) more track in a given space. The Ross #4 switches are also significantly longer than the O-72 switches. I'm using the Ross O-72 SG switches on my layout (currently under construction) and am very glad I spent the money on them.
Thanks BC400,
Guess I need to see a visual/picture of the MTH 42, a Ross 7, and a Ross#4 .
Always telling Tom I need a visual; a drawing in my hand, or a specific detailed picture to look at, etc. Tom, on the other hand can visualize something in his head and then directly make it.
I am looking to branch off the mainline loop to have a piece of track (or two) between the two platforms at the Pride Lines Passenger shed, and maybe add a siding as well.
Perhaps someone can post a picture of the #4. They're big!! The picture of the O-72 is earlier in this thread, courtesy of Hojack. The 42" switch is basically the same as the O-72, the only difference being a sharper turnout (42" instead of 72")
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Good photo Arno, that gives a pretty clear comparison.
As it was explained to me, the rationale for the #4 is that its geometry is made up of one straight section intersecting another straight section at an angle – rather than the typical 72 turnout, which is a curved section intersecting a straight section. The idea, as I understand it, is to eliminate the curve, so that in complex situations like yards or crossovers, you eliminate S curves.
Between you, me, and the fencepost, the train still turns left as it exits either turnout, and whether or not you have S curves depends on what you do down the track.
I think my inability to appreciate the subtleness here may come from the fact that I'm coming from a Standard Gauge, tinplate world; and the perceived need for the #4 switch comes from a different universe – that of smaller gauge scale modeling. Keep in mind that Ross has only recently entered the tinplate Standard Gauge market; their years of experience are all with smaller gauge scale modeling. They aced the transition with their 72. I question how well the #4 concept survives the translation. It seems like a SG solution to a problem that didn't exist in SG?
The other issue here is sheer size, which is demonstrated well in Arno's photo. We all know that Standard Gauge is big – and it is difficult enough for most of us to find enough space for a minimalist layout. The idea of finding enough real estate to build a multi-switch Standard Gauge yard full of Ross #4s simply boggles.
Below is a photo of the entry to a double-ladder yard built along one edge of my layout, using (mostly) Ross SG 72 switches. This could not have happened using the huge #4s that were ostensibly designed for this purpose.
just my 1-1/2 cents worth... IMHO, FWIW, YMMV...
david
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I think the #4 turnout was meant to be used as a high speed cross over.
The 72 turnouts make a very nice ladder yard. There is a way to take vintage 42 switches and cutting off half the curved track to make a ladder yard as tight as the 72s.