Plan Ahead For Maintenance

Alex,

Thanks for the tip and I agree that planning for such maintenance issues is crucial. My question relates to ross switches. I am designing a layout utilizing atlas track and wonder how do the ross switches integrate with atlas track? Thanks in advance for any insights you might offer.

Dennis Kwasny

Dennis,

I used 46 Atlas and 12 Ross turnouts. All the Ross are curved and I selected them because Atlas did not offer the curvatures I wanted. I had no problem joining the Atlas track or turnouts with the Ross turnouts, as you cans see in some of the pictures, above.

Unfortunately, I had problems getting the Ross turnouts to operate reliably with the DZ1000 machines, and still have problems with some engines and cars derailing on them. I was able to fix a few, as shown above, but others remain a problem.

I have been disappointed with the workmanship on the Ross turnouts I have; is it possible that their straight turnouts are better? If I had to do it over, I would find a way to use all Atlas.

Good luck!

Alex

Alex,

Thanks for the info. I wondered how your experience was with ross. I know the product has a large following, but I have been satisfied with Atlas in the past. It is just that Atlas has just the one curved swith available. I have another question if you don't mind, have you had a problem running scale engines (say a lionel Big Boy) through the 0-56 leg of the atlas curved swtich with 0-72 or larger radius curves immediately after the turnout? Thanks again for any help you can offer.

Dennis

Alex,

I just noticed your comment to Norm about my question concerning 4 1/2 " track spacing and using scale equipment. It is good to hear that you have no trouble with 108/99 radius track. I have been working on changing my layout to use the larger radius curves.

Thanks again.

Dennis

Dennis,

I do not have any switches with Ø56 legs, so I can't help you. The turnouts I have on my layout are Atlas #5's and #7.5's, and RCS #6's & #8's, curved. The latter are Ø96-Ø72 and Ø120-Ø96, and I am having problems with the Big Boy on the Ø72 leg of the #6.

Alex

Alex; great planning for future problems.

Glad you had success Alex. Can you explain the method you used to remove the kink? What tools did you use?

Thanks,

Andy

Yep, gotta be able to get inside for maintenance and repairs.  My layout has two lift-out sections like those of Ingeniero No1, and also a 2 X 3 trapdoor in the middle. 

Andy,

 Here is how I removed the kinks. Different switch from the one shown previously.

(You may have to click on the pictures to be able to see the details, I hope.)

 The kink - on the lower rail between the second and third tie starting from the right.

Use a piece of metal about two inches long to straddle the kink on the bottom. I used a 1/4" square lathe cutter, and a pair of pliers to squeeze the kink. Shown below before the squeeze.

And squeeze to smooth out or flatten the kink.  

Kink removed.

Hope this helps.

Alex

I am amazed a kink that small can have an effect like that.  I suppose I have been lucky with my Ross stuff.  Also, thanks for the tip on how to fix.  That info gets tucked away safely in case it ever happens.

If the kink makes the track spacing too tight, you WILL get derails constantly.

Nice Fix on the kink Alex.

And the kink wasn't as sharp as I expected from the initial posting.