Platform Base Structure Questions

When I was in the planning stages for my build, I, like yourself, did considerable research regarding the benchwork. One of my considerations was that I was going to be using Fastrack, which had a reputation for being fairly noisey.

Somewhere in my research, one article contended that the more solid your benchwork and table top are, the less any noise will be transferred, which to me makes a lot of sense. I decided to concentrate on doing all I could within reason to create a "Solid" platform, to try to minimize vibrations. This means going with heavier materials, and building a permanent structure. I read a number of articles where builders used "L" girders and other methods, but I never had any intention of moving my benchwork, so I went with readily available construction lumber.

I used 2x4 for the legs, & crossmembers and 3/4" plywood for the top surfaces. I insulated the top from the crossmembers using a sill foam gasket, also in an attempt to minimize any vibration which would create noise. I went with standard 16" spacing, and of course screwed down the plywood surface. A lot of folks use 1/2" ply, and swear by it, but when I was building I figured that if 1/2" was good, then 3/4" would be better, and I sure wasn't about to change it later. Just made sense to me that 3/4" would add to the rigidness of the structure.

After the table was built, I covered the whole surface with underpad that they use under hardwood flooring. It's about 3/16" thick, and is a very dense foam rubber type stuff, which lays completely flat, with no bumps, so you can easily stand small based items, and they won't topple over. My padding happens to be sort of a dull greenish colour, which provides a good base colour for landscaping. A lot of folks use a product called "Homosote" as a base to help reduce noise, but I couldn't find it anywhere in my area, so I went with the padding. Really easy to use, it came in a 6' width, and I just cut it with scissors.

I'm over 200lbs, and my table doesn't even creak when I have to put my weight on it. I'm very happy with the end product, it works for me. Simple and solid. Oh, and I'm very happy with the result from the noise standpoint, I must admit, I was a little worried that with all the comments about Fastrack being noisy, it's not an issue with my set-up.

Sorry for the long post, I hope it gives you some ideas.

REV

In all honesty, you should consider plans that would not require inaccessible areas - for several reasons.

An around-the-room/walls or walk-in design has many advantages over a traditional table-top, accessibility above & below included.  They usually allow for more track and longer runs in the same area, as well as more flexibility with larger minimum curves.  The use of view blocks for peninsulas adds to the visual "distance".

I am using 1/2" Ply with 1x4 Girder type construction but still in a platform.

I used 2x4" legs because they are cheap and sturdy and don't warp as much as smaller stock.

It's plenty strong for my 250lb mass to climb on it.

I am topping mine with Celotex Soundstop. Its a material designed to muffle sound and works very well, it's similar to ceiling tile but smoother surfaced.

It makes a massive difference in sound levels. And it is less expensive than homosote up here.

Bottom line is still:

Have Fun !

I highly recommend the homosote over 3/4 inch plywood. Great sound reducer but I like how easy it is to screw structures, track and scenery into. I have not tried Celotex but it's worth checking out. Especially if it is cheaper than homosote and may come in easily manageable sizes. 

Thank you all for your responses!

I am now attempting to locate Homasote where I live and so far the big box stores don't list it on their websites. I live in Washington, PA so not sure if Homasote is a local thing or not.

I will be going with 2x4 for the structure 16 inch off center based on the responses here. Like I said I want to do this right and not have any regrets once it is built.

I'm sure I will have many more questions as I progress

Thanks again

I did another check on the Home Depot website and found this

440 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R1.2 Sound Board

When reading the description it stated

Use the Homasote 1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. 440 Composite Sound Board to help improve sound insulation in your next construction project. This board is made of an environmentally-friendly composite material.

I am assuming that this is the product mentioned above. The one question I have is this solid enough to support my weight if I have to get up on the platform?

DPG,  hey neighbor,  Irwin Pa here.  Remember, you are not trying to build a house here.  You can use 2x2 for legs. That is what I used and haven't had one twist yet. I used 3/8" carriage bolts to attach the legs to the framework.    If your layout is going to be basically flat for now,  you can use 1x4 lumber on 16" centers for the framework.  Plywood would be better for the table top,  1/2" is sufficient.  On top of that use homasote.  You should be able to get it at Home Depot or Lowes.  They have it in my area so they should have it down your way too. 

When I screwed my plywood down I only used screws along the edge and a few down the center.  I think my spacing was 2 feet apart.  I think the  screws were 1 1/2 or 2 " long.  But, 16" on center is ok.  Then the same for the homasote.  I used 1" drywall screws for that.

That should be strong enough without going overboard with construction.  I've been on top of my layout several times and it hasn't collapsed yet.  LOL  Of course, if 2x4s are cheaper than 2x2s buy whatever is cheapest.  There is nothing wrong with buying larger dimension lumber if it's less expensive.

Good luck and have fun,  Rick

Dpg,  Homasote may NOT support your weight by itself.  Put it on top of plywood then you will be good.  Homasote is basically compressed cardboard.

Rick