@PRR1950 posted:I doubt Lionel actually built a 2-rail version; probably somebody else's custom conversion.
Chuck
Agreed. It was a custom job
Lionel advertised a 2-rail version of their scale PRR T1: 6-28089.
Lionel did in fact manufacture a 2-rail version of the T1; I own one. The Lionel model is the later version of the T1 with no portals. Nicely detailed except the tender is incorrect. The tender from the S2 was used which has a notch for the engine roof overhang. The T1's didn't have this notch.
I had the Weaver (3-rail). The engine was noisy, like the gearing was too low. Detailing was on par with earlier brass though sparce by today's standards.
I have the MTH 2-rail version which is OK but needs loads of room to turn.
My favorite is my 3rd rail portal version, also 2-rail. Nicely detailed and smooth running. My only nit is that you can see the brass seams on the tender's hump (at the end of the coal load; Samhongsa managed to have the sides of the tender completely smooth on the Weaver version.
@rplst8 posted:Lionel made a 2-rail version of the T1? Do tell!
Yes, they did, see post above.
Cool. I had no idea.
Ted R - As I stated previously, I started this post to learn more about the various T1's. So I have a question for you. I am assuming ALL the drivers are flanged on ALL the 2R versions, correct? If so, since T1's aren't articulated, what Radius curves do you need to operate them? Are you in the same bind that the PRR was, that you can only operate in certain divisions or your RR? Thanks - Jim
According to the Owner's Manual for the Lionel 2-rail version mentioned above, minimum 2-rail radius was 65 inches. You can bet that other 2-rail versions required somewhere around that size (or larger) to run.
Chuck
Some have a bit of side-to-side play reducing radius requirements, but all of the 2-rail versions require a fair amount of room to turn. The MTH T1 is the worst at 72 inches (radius not diameter).
Chuck and Ted - Thank you very much for the information. This is one of the reason I decided to go 3R, but still am "second guessing" myself. The others were price/availability of items, and falling for K-Line Passenger Cars. With the track the height of it (Code) actually bothers more than the center rail. I know I am am weird, but (mis)-proportions really drive me nuts. Some how I have convinced myself that 15" K-Lines are "cute". Although Very Much prefer 18". The 21" look wacky to me going around O-72 (36" radius). When I build layout planning on O90 and O99.
@MainLine Steam, you're not weird at all. I was a hi-railer but constantly found myself having similar issues with proportions. 3-rail hi-rail/scale has a lot to offer, so am by no means bad mouthing it as an option. Just decided on 2-rail for what I wanted to achieve. However, unless you have unlimited space, you must make compromises to run these rigid frame duplex engines.
@MainLine Steam posted:Chuck and Ted - Thank you very much for the information. This is one of the reason I decided to go 3R, but still am "second guessing" myself. The others were price/availability of items, and falling for K-Line Passenger Cars. With the track the height of it (Code) actually bothers more than the center rail. I know I am am weird, but (mis)-proportions really drive me nuts. Some how I have convinced myself that 15" K-Lines are "cute". Although Very Much prefer 18". The 21" look wacky to me going around O-72 (36" radius). When I build layout planning on O90 and O99.
Unless you absolutely have no room for it (Big Equipment) in 2R, I would recommend - not that you asked - stopping the 3R now and going to 2R. These sort of nagging bits and pieces typically only get worse with time, until you have a room full of expensive, nice things that irritate you.
I have a small case of that, but it was fortunately/unfortunately not bad enough to Stop the 3R Madness.
In my case, it's that center rail. Still bugs me. Especially looking down the tracks into a yard. Yikes! The Code of the rail on my GG is OK, partly because I paint it a flat, dark rusty brown. (Why does anyone want a chrome railroad?)
"If I were starting over...." Dunno. Want to say S scale - but very little equipment important to me was/is offered, by anybody.
2R. Your K-Line passenger cars can be re-trucked.
Ted and D500 - Thank you very much for your replies. Although I have bought a LOT of equipment, (rolling stock, Locos). I have not made a final commitment. I know that sounds strange, but I have yet to buy a single piece of track or transformers etc.
One scenario I have considered is Layout with Part 2R and Part 3R. I am still in the information gathering phase. I am going to post a question I have about wheel sets as part of the "fact finding". I probably in the not too distant future will ask for some opinions based I what I am trying to achieve. I have read some of the topics on 3R vs 2R but as you stated it depends what you are "going for".
Thanks again - Jim
I purchased a pair of flanged center drivers from Sunset for my 2 rail T1 so it would be fully flanged like the prototype. I did the same for my Sunset J1 2-10-4. They had no issues with 54" minimum radius curves on my prior railroad (see March 2000 MR mag). If you plan to run locomotives on curves that are close to their minimum radius you should use extra care when laying the track to insure there are no kinks or tight spots along the curve, especially at the rail joints. If you have the space easements will make for smoother running and better appearance. For more on easements see John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation.
